Neg. battery cable relocation- Tx Jim

SHALER

Member
Jim, curious, what specifically is the advantage of removing the factory negative battery connection and relocating it to the engine block? You suggested this in an
earlier post where someone asked about starting cold tractors.
 
better ground for the starter. starters pull lots of current, any connection that has any resistance will become a major voltage drop when you pull current through it. Since the starter is bolted to the block then running the cable to the engine block will eliminate any semi-bad connection between the block and chassis.
 
Also, something I've seen- instead of these fancy, one-of-a-kind manufactured multi end cables, is running a single + and - cable from each battery to the starter. Simple. Easily replaceable. And it makes it easier to troubleshoot a bad battery/connection.
 

The thread that you're referring to was about a JD utility tractor that came from factory with ground cable or cables attached to battery box. Over time these battery boxes get rusty from battery acid therefore loosing good electrical continuity at the places where they're attached to tractor body. It boils down to less connection points=much better electrical continuity thus normally better,easier engine starting especially when the atmospheric temp gets colder.
 
I agree, but with our new Cannibis laws I am afraid we will see more joints and poor connections......sorry, i
couldn't resist!
 
That can't possibly be true. Someone on here the other day said the manufacturer knew what was best and us country bumpkins could not improve on their design or specifications. TDF
 
A good average (medium sized tractors) range of currents for starting farm tractors is 200-300 amperes, where running accessories and all are in the 3-20 amp range.

Since the starter needs the most current one would think that the path of least resistance would be to place the battery across the starter. Placing the battery adjacent to the starter, wired directly (with 0-00 AWG wire) to the starting solenoid input and the starter frame...a mounting bolt where it mounts to the engine block is the perfect place, takes care of that. Connections all need to be clean (on the inside where the current flows) and tight.

There are numerous ways to power different tractors other than OEM designed connections that work better...may not be as pretty, but functionally better.
 
Rust was causing me not to get a good ground in the factory location, so I moved the battery ground wire to one of the starter mounting bolts. Worked great.
 

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