Range land suggestions

Apache_58

Member
I have 100 acres of hilly range land I want to establish dryland grass on. Probably some sort of wheat grass and Paiute orchard grass. I'm clearing brush now. I don't think I will be able to plow due to buried rocks. Because it's not a large open field I think I will need to use smaller 3 point implements so I can back into tight spots and make tight turns. Any suggestions on what to buy? This is a low budget operation. I currently have a 68 Ford diesel 3500 loader tractor and will have to make due with that. I'm fighting invasive weeds by spot spraying and worry about what will happen if i disc it all up. I would rent a no-till seed drill, but I'm not sure about the rocky ground. Don't want to have to pay for repairs.
 
My thought is a 6 foot wide 3 point harrow disc, seed spreader, and drag. Probably waste a bunch of seed..

I am wondering what to do if it comes in sparse. How do you reseed it without destroying what has already established? Seed and drag? I have read that dryland grass can be hard to get established depending on when you plant it and the weather.
 
Maybe you can find a Cosicana Pasture renovator, sometimes called a Pasture dream, some of them had
disc openers and some had rippers, you can't plant dryland all that deep, 1/2'' is probably plenty,
a seeder with disc openers probably would be best, then maybe get some rain on it. As you clear it
up you should get volunteer regrowth of whatever grass it was in or of your native pasture grasses
in the area, soil samples will tell you what minerals you need to spread to get whatever grass you
want to grow, no bigger waste of seed than to fail to soil sample. Seed is expensive but you should
be able to find a farmer in the area that sells seed as opposed to buying from a seed company,
always much cheaper to buy direct. I don't know where your located but the High Plains Journal
classifieds always has a good variety of seed for sale bulk, range grasses, cover crop, whatever
you need.
 
I have had good luck frost seeding, I rented a small spreader that could be pulled behind my ATV. I also have mixed a little clover seed in with loose mineral, clover seed passes thru and is "instantly" fertilized. Cows wont eat that clover until the following year allowing it to get established.
 
Sounds like the perfect place for a herd of meat goats they'll clean up the pastures and then you can add cattle later if you want of course you'll make about 1/2 as much money on the cattle as the goats these days.
 
It really depends on where you are at and what your goals are.

Native grasses will self establish if left to their own devices. I'm in NE Oklahoma and big bluestem will reestablish itself if left to its own devices. That's the low budget method but you don't get production for a few years.

If I have some spots subject to erosion I seed annual rye grass, preferably on snow cover. It takes hold and reseeds very well.

By the way, my cattle don't graze clover, they have to be really hungry. Good nutrition is my herd health plan and saves on vet bills.
 
What type clover?I have Ladino clover in the pastures on my place anything that grazes loves it and its higher in nutrient value than any grass.Plus its a legume that puts N into the soil for grasses to feed off of.What is not to like about it?
 
We just have common red clover that grows wild. Mow it and they eat it like alfalfa. Same with korean lespedeza. They will also eat it after frost.

This is a good example of different people seemingly having different experiences. I have seen on this forum where guys get pretty hot because someone else has a difference experience and they think the other guy is calling them a liar. Some of it may be regional differences. There are always guys guessing at what would or should happen but when you have actual experience doing something it is hard to believe others have a different experience doing the exact same thing. A good reason to be tolerant of other people's experiences.
 
I have seen a single action heavy harrow used in stoney fields instead of a plow. You need to overlap 1/2 the width of the harrow in order not to produce ridges and
valleys and it may take few passes at 90 deg. to the last one to chop up the sod good. The first pas or two may not look like you are doing much but after 3 or more it
will come along. Then a smaller double action harrow for finish.
 
(quoted from post at 08:00:39 03/02/19) Maybe you can find a Cosicana Pasture renovator, sometimes called a Pasture dream, some of them had disc openers and some had rippers,

Due to the fact Apache 58 stated he thought soil had too many rocks to successfully plow I seriously doubt a Corsicana Pasture renovator or Midland Pasture Dream will be the correct implement. It's difficult in some non rocky soils to keep the shear bolts replaced on those 2 implements. I've never seen either of those 2 implements with disc openers but disk openers would be a better choice in rocks than shear bolt protected rippers.
 
so what happens after I clear the bush, is cheat grass and the like come back heavy. It is a big fire hazard. At first I want to lease it out in the spring and let someone elses cows eat the vegetation down so as to reduce fire hazard and maybe pay the taxes. I may turn a horse out and someday put a few steers out there so as to have some home grown meat. It's not a business. Just want to improve the land and reduce the fire hazard.
 
Additionally I am fighting invasive mustard. Thinking having animals on it at the right time might help at least slow the spread.
 
I do have areas that will disc easily, such as this clearing where my tractor is currently "parked". You can see it's a sandy clay. Wheat and barley seem to love this dirt. But I've never planted but small little test areas.

mvphoto32234.jpg
 
You don't plant dryland deep at all so no need to plow rocks, barely scratch the ground, 1/8'' to
1/2'' maximum. I have a Corsicana renovator with disc openers, bought at an auction in Texas
several moons ago. I believe I
mentioned that rippers would not be preferred but he is not talking about ripping and roaring with
a 200 HP tractor, he stated what tractor he had to work with and the fact that he intends to ease
along.
 
Little ridge tops like this. Doesn't look rocky but there are rocks not that far below the surface and sticking up here and there.

mvphoto32235.jpg
 
Your ground is a lot like mine. LAA is right on saying don't cut into the soil. You can use a disc, but don't let it cut into the ground over an inch deep. Most grass seed can be broadcast and lightly covered. Whatever you do, don't cut into the soil hard, it will bring up more rocks than you ever knew you had.
 
(quoted from post at 08:09:38 03/02/19) Your ground is a lot like mine. LAA is right on saying don't cut into the soil. You can use a disc, but don't let it cut into the ground over an inch deep. Most grass seed can be broadcast and lightly covered. Whatever you do, don't cut into the soil hard, it will bring up more rocks than you ever knew you had.

So maybe an adjustable 3pnt disc and a drag?
 
You might want to check with your local county agent as far as what to seed. As others said,
if your just seeding grass or hay crops, till lightly, broadcast seed, and harrow it in.
I did that but instead of harrowing it in, I used a roller harrow. Went across it 3 or 4 times,
at different angles. Worked great for me. A disclaimer, tho, I was only doing 5 acres.
That's what worked for me.
 
When I was a kid worked for a co-op. When
a customer came in wanting to buy grass
seed and wanting to know when to plant it.
Perry would say you can plant it 11 months
out of a year. When they said what month
can't I plant, he always replied. I don't
know!.
 

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