Thinking of buying a 8N, at most I would be doing 15 acres. And not all in one area. Soils aren t hardpan. But, two of the old homesteads has some serious overgrown grass mounds(hill). Mostly doing small fields and old logging roads. Weight is an issue, that is why I m going with the 8N. We have some areas that we will need a lighter tractor due to wet areas. Question is, I don t know what attachments(size) that fit best with this tractor. I would like to have the implements go outside the tires a bit of possible. Size of disk, Bush hog, bottom plow, rake and size of back blade. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
- Thread starter 3/9semfi
- Start date
wildsawmill
Member
I used to have an 8n if your brush hogging and you get hung up you have to disconnect the drive shaft because the PTO has to turn for the hydraulic pump in them to work so you can't raise the brush hog if it's hung up unless you disconnect the Driveline. It got old fast for me, I would recommend a tractor with live PTO like a jubilee or Ford 600 it's basically an 8n just a hair bigger and a whole lot better
K Effective
Well-known Member
That would not be my first choice for a tractor to do actual work, but they can be inexpensive and functional. You still are looking at a 67-71year-old machine with no live PTO.
For [u:2d7ec22fc6]similar [/u:2d7ec22fc6]money you could upgrade to a unit from the 1970s (Ford 4000, Massey 35, Int 656, etc.) with live PTO and power steering and 70 hp, as compared to 23. No doubt, more money and weight, and also far more productive.
For [u:2d7ec22fc6]similar [/u:2d7ec22fc6]money you could upgrade to a unit from the 1970s (Ford 4000, Massey 35, Int 656, etc.) with live PTO and power steering and 70 hp, as compared to 23. No doubt, more money and weight, and also far more productive.
Bob N.Y.
Well-known Member
- Location
- Norway, N.Y.
The Ford Jubilee and most 600s don't have live PTO, except for the 660, 661, the Selecto-Speed models and that rare differential clutch that was available on the Jubilee. They do have live hydraulics.
wildsawmill
Member
My jubilee has live power I don't know if it come out of the factory that way or not. but it's twice the tractor an 8N is
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
I'm a dyed in the wool Ford man but I
would suggest you skip the N Series and
go a little newer.
Ns simply don't have the features.
The earlier 9 and 2 N don't have a real
drawbar, they dont have position control
on the 3 point and they have goofy brake
pedals.
The 8Ns have the above features but have
the most ridiculously FAST reverse speed
ever put in a tractor.
And none of the Ns have live hydraulics.
You don't need live PTO but you DO need
live hydraulics. Suggest you research
the difference.
An NAA/Jubilee is a much better choice
and a 600 or 800 is better yet.
I recommend you spend 30% more $ and get
twice the tractor.
would suggest you skip the N Series and
go a little newer.
Ns simply don't have the features.
The earlier 9 and 2 N don't have a real
drawbar, they dont have position control
on the 3 point and they have goofy brake
pedals.
The 8Ns have the above features but have
the most ridiculously FAST reverse speed
ever put in a tractor.
And none of the Ns have live hydraulics.
You don't need live PTO but you DO need
live hydraulics. Suggest you research
the difference.
An NAA/Jubilee is a much better choice
and a 600 or 800 is better yet.
I recommend you spend 30% more $ and get
twice the tractor.
Blackhole49
Well-known Member
- Location
- White Lake MI
My tired 8n will handle a 6' finish mower and 2x12 plow no problem. It will spin-out with a 6' box blade full of
gravel without the tires loaded. Not sure if it will handle a 6' brush hog in heavy grass. If I try cutting 3'
grass with my mower, I have to start high and work my way down.
gravel without the tires loaded. Not sure if it will handle a 6' brush hog in heavy grass. If I try cutting 3'
grass with my mower, I have to start high and work my way down.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
They weren't a true live power.
They replaced the splined coupler between the transmission and the pinion shaft to the rear end with a hydraulically operated clutch pack. Not unlike the setup that Allis Chalmers used on the WD models.
The tiny hyd pump was driven off the back end of the main pump where the tach cable connects. I have seen a couple of them but haven't ever seen one that still works and no parts are available.
They replaced the splined coupler between the transmission and the pinion shaft to the rear end with a hydraulically operated clutch pack. Not unlike the setup that Allis Chalmers used on the WD models.
The tiny hyd pump was driven off the back end of the main pump where the tach cable connects. I have seen a couple of them but haven't ever seen one that still works and no parts are available.
I have both a 9N and 2N that are basicly same as the 8N and for that bush hog you NEED live power. So the NAA jubilly is out as only the expermintal live was avaible on very few of them. I also did have a NAA and a Ferguson TO-30 that is very close to being like a 8N Ford. The 4 speed and some of the 5 speed 600-2000 series do not have live power so you should be looking for a 660, 661 or a 2000 with the optional live pto. Something else in that size to consider is the Ferguson TO-35 or newer versions of it and some of them I don't think have live power. And then a 5' mower in almost an overload on any of them and a 6' is a definat NO_NO. You need the live power to get out of tough spots along with the live hydrolics to raise mower to also help you get out of those tough spots. I had a 4000 that put out 60 horse on the dyno and a 5' unit and had no problem with killing the engine in heavy stuff, The Ford or Ferguson tractors that have the live PTO and live hydrolics are in the 32-35 HP range so barly enough power to run that 5' mower if there is very heavy stuff to mow. And where you think you would have no use for a loader if you would get a tractor with it on you would find you would be using it way more than you think you would be doing it. Now they will be wider than the 5' mower as they have a normal wheel tread of 56" but you have to add 12" to that for the tire so that makes it 68" wide and a 5' mower is 60" wide. You can with trouble get most of them to a 48" wheel tread but that would still be wider than a 5' mower. Depending on what you have to mow a 6' finnishing mower might be a better chioce as say for a second mower after you get the heavy stuff knocked down. I think the 5 speed Ford tractors have a slower first gear as well and that might be what you should have for the mower. And all the tractors for the Live PTO would handle a 2 bottom 14" plow or a 7' disk but do not get a 3 point hich disk as they would make front end light for steering. Make sure tractor has a good swinging drawbar and get an old drag type of disk, will do a lot better work. Rear blade for any with the live PTO a 7 foot would work but for a blade you need the stabilizer bars on BOTH sides. For pulling a trailer you need that good swinging drawbar that you can lock in non swinging position as the 3 point hitch is no good (killer) for pulling that trailer.
If you're just using it to mow, the N Fords are a bad choice. No live PTO or hydraulics, with the added feature that the tractor doesn't stop when you depress the clutch until the mower blade stops turning. Can put you through fences or into the creek. Look at Oliver Super 55 or 550- similar size tractor, but its what the N's wanted to be when they grow up.
John Deere D
Well-known Member
If your heart is into purchasing an 8-N so be it......
I have great memories as a young child in 1959 operating my parents 8-N....
As time advanced I purchased a MF 35 3 cylinder diesel............
Last year I purchased a 2-N Ford that came from the original owners. I knew this Tractor was the one..........
As the tractor had never been mechanically abused and the owner was a licensed mechanic this must be the "N" for me...
The "N" is a great conversation piece....the MF 35 Diesel is like winning a huge lottery....the "N" is like a payout on the nickel machine after the state tax man takes their portion........"N's" replaced the horse...
However, I do like my "N", as it is geared perfectly to power a JD groomer and has a very small foot print in the grass...
My "N" shall spent the reset of its life grooming the local Cemetery as it does a great job....
It also works great for pulling the Potato Cart in the fall...
Bob...
I have great memories as a young child in 1959 operating my parents 8-N....
As time advanced I purchased a MF 35 3 cylinder diesel....
........Last year I purchased a 2-N Ford that came from the original owners. I knew this Tractor was the one..........
As the tractor had never been mechanically abused and the owner was a licensed mechanic this must be the "N" for me...
The "N" is a great conversation piece....the MF 35 Diesel is like winning a huge lottery....the "N" is like a payout on the nickel machine after the state tax man takes their portion........"N's" replaced the horse...
However, I do like my "N", as it is geared perfectly to power a JD groomer and has a very small foot print in the grass...
My "N" shall spent the reset of its life grooming the local Cemetery as it does a great job....
It also works great for pulling the Potato Cart in the fall...
Bob...
Mac AR
Member
- Location
- The Hills of Home - The Ozarks
Please skip the 8n, if nothing else for the sake of your sanity. The others have recommended the *00 series Fords, which would be great for what you want to do.
Also maybe look at an IH 300/350 utility and/or an Oliver 550. Both are small, low-built tractors, similar in size to the N's but far and away better for what
you want. Live PTO, live hydraulics, and power steering make life so much better, and they're priced right too. Now, don't get me wrong, the N's are fine for
piddling in a garden and doing some light mowing. But don't expect to brush hog 10 or 15 acres in a day with your N and 5' cutter. I used to have a 9N and a 5'
pull type brush hog. It took me FOREVER to mow anything, since if the grass was over knee deep I had to go in 1st gear wide open. Drove me nuts! I swapped them
both on a JD 8mx 8' cutter and haven't regretted it since. My 300 Farmall will pull it with no issues in 2nd or 3rd gear depending on conditions, and the only
reason I would be in 1st is if the area I'm in is un-known to me, or a little sketchy as far as rocks, stumps, and junk. The 300 utility would do fine with a
similar mower, and I'd assume the same for the Oliver.
Now, on to the original question. I had very little trouble in my ground with the N and a 2-14 plow or a 6' disk, but again, my 300 pulls an IH 3 disk plow and
an IH 10' wheel disk with ease. The N will handle a 5' cutter fairly well, but forget about a 6'. The weight of a 6' alone will overwhelm the N's, and even if it
would lift it, the little thing doesn't have enough power to run it through anything over a foot tall. Also, remember to get an over-running clutch for the PTO.
That keeps you from getting shoved into trees or ponds. I'm unsure as to what you mean by rake, but as far as hay rakes go you can pull a side delivery rake
fine. A v-rake will be out since you don't have any hyd. remotes; therefore no way to fold the rake up. You should be fine with a 6' angle blade, but a 5' box
blade might be more to your liking. If I was dead-set on an N, I'd go with what I listed above. But if I actually wanted to get some work done, I'd get a
2/3/4000 Ford, 550 Oliver, or (my personal pick) an IH 300/350 utility. I would add that if you aren't going to be mowing on steep hills or under lots of trees,
a 300 Farmall (row crop version of 300u) would probably suit your needs well. If you're like me, you like to set up high where you can see what's out in front of
you, and the utility tractors don't give you that. Just something else to consider.
Mac
Also maybe look at an IH 300/350 utility and/or an Oliver 550. Both are small, low-built tractors, similar in size to the N's but far and away better for what
you want. Live PTO, live hydraulics, and power steering make life so much better, and they're priced right too. Now, don't get me wrong, the N's are fine for
piddling in a garden and doing some light mowing. But don't expect to brush hog 10 or 15 acres in a day with your N and 5' cutter. I used to have a 9N and a 5'
pull type brush hog. It took me FOREVER to mow anything, since if the grass was over knee deep I had to go in 1st gear wide open. Drove me nuts! I swapped them
both on a JD 8mx 8' cutter and haven't regretted it since. My 300 Farmall will pull it with no issues in 2nd or 3rd gear depending on conditions, and the only
reason I would be in 1st is if the area I'm in is un-known to me, or a little sketchy as far as rocks, stumps, and junk. The 300 utility would do fine with a
similar mower, and I'd assume the same for the Oliver.
Now, on to the original question. I had very little trouble in my ground with the N and a 2-14 plow or a 6' disk, but again, my 300 pulls an IH 3 disk plow and
an IH 10' wheel disk with ease. The N will handle a 5' cutter fairly well, but forget about a 6'. The weight of a 6' alone will overwhelm the N's, and even if it
would lift it, the little thing doesn't have enough power to run it through anything over a foot tall. Also, remember to get an over-running clutch for the PTO.
That keeps you from getting shoved into trees or ponds. I'm unsure as to what you mean by rake, but as far as hay rakes go you can pull a side delivery rake
fine. A v-rake will be out since you don't have any hyd. remotes; therefore no way to fold the rake up. You should be fine with a 6' angle blade, but a 5' box
blade might be more to your liking. If I was dead-set on an N, I'd go with what I listed above. But if I actually wanted to get some work done, I'd get a
2/3/4000 Ford, 550 Oliver, or (my personal pick) an IH 300/350 utility. I would add that if you aren't going to be mowing on steep hills or under lots of trees,
a 300 Farmall (row crop version of 300u) would probably suit your needs well. If you're like me, you like to set up high where you can see what's out in front of
you, and the utility tractors don't give you that. Just something else to consider.
Mac
I'm a died in the wool 'N' lover. But you would be better served with something newer/more modern with more power. Like an 800 series;2000/3000. Or even a Massey 35/135.Wt wise they are just a fuzz heavier,so no issue,but you will love the extra power and the hydralic improvements,as well as the live pto. Ns are cool,the state of the art in the 40s.But for real 'farming' these days,you need something else.
I agree with other YTer?s, skip the 8N and put a little more
money towards a 00 series or better yet a 000 series Ford.
Your description of the property is way too much for a 60+
year old N Ford to handle. I?ve owned seven N?s over the
years and giving you my serious opinion, their great little
garden tractors and for mowing a property that?s regularly
maintained but for over grown vegetation the little N?s just
can?t cut the mustard..
money towards a 00 series or better yet a 000 series Ford.
Your description of the property is way too much for a 60+
year old N Ford to handle. I?ve owned seven N?s over the
years and giving you my serious opinion, their great little
garden tractors and for mowing a property that?s regularly
maintained but for over grown vegetation the little N?s just
can?t cut the mustard..
I really like some of the responses you have received.
Tell you what. Look on here at the YT parts store and see what kinda support each recommended tractor has. Give you a hint. At the age of these tractors? Pick the one with the most parts available. I don't care how good or bad a tractor was. If they didn't sell many not only will parts support be minimal (and they all will use parts) that parts support is going to go away sooner rather than later. When these companies can't sell enough parts to make a profit production will stop. For example a sin in law's brother owns an IH 300 utility. Couple of years ago he needed some steering gear parts and the only thing available was from a scrap yard. So long term? Not something I'd want as a "daily driver" and I like IH/Farmall (have a 1206 and 706). Some parts for the 1206 are hard to come by too. Gotta remember these are old tractors. Now back in the day Ford grabbed the utility market and they held a substantial lead for DECADES. Next best in sales numbers was MF. The only thing I have against MF is AGCO and the terrible support in my area.
So look up parts for tractors you are interested in. Fella on here recommended an MM to a guy. A tractor that they built less than 5,000 total. All parts for that are about impossible to find. SO great collector/parade/show tractor, poor choice for a work tractor.
Check the local area. See what the dealers are like. Don't talk to the dealers. Talk to the end users. Great tractor with a terrible dealer makes for a poor tractor.
Don't under buy. If you buy something that's too small for the job you will either hate it or break it overworking it. I think you are expecting too much from an N. Plus as others have said, live hydraulics and PTO are much nicer. IPTO is even better! Unless your hobby is riding a tractor you will find that for what you want? You will be spending days you should be at the lake/seashore on that tractor.
I just graduated from N Fords to an 860. When I stumble onto a good deal that may turn into a 3000 or newer.
Rick
Tell you what. Look on here at the YT parts store and see what kinda support each recommended tractor has. Give you a hint. At the age of these tractors? Pick the one with the most parts available. I don't care how good or bad a tractor was. If they didn't sell many not only will parts support be minimal (and they all will use parts) that parts support is going to go away sooner rather than later. When these companies can't sell enough parts to make a profit production will stop. For example a sin in law's brother owns an IH 300 utility. Couple of years ago he needed some steering gear parts and the only thing available was from a scrap yard. So long term? Not something I'd want as a "daily driver" and I like IH/Farmall (have a 1206 and 706). Some parts for the 1206 are hard to come by too. Gotta remember these are old tractors. Now back in the day Ford grabbed the utility market and they held a substantial lead for DECADES. Next best in sales numbers was MF. The only thing I have against MF is AGCO and the terrible support in my area.
So look up parts for tractors you are interested in. Fella on here recommended an MM to a guy. A tractor that they built less than 5,000 total. All parts for that are about impossible to find. SO great collector/parade/show tractor, poor choice for a work tractor.
Check the local area. See what the dealers are like. Don't talk to the dealers. Talk to the end users. Great tractor with a terrible dealer makes for a poor tractor.
Don't under buy. If you buy something that's too small for the job you will either hate it or break it overworking it. I think you are expecting too much from an N. Plus as others have said, live hydraulics and PTO are much nicer. IPTO is even better! Unless your hobby is riding a tractor you will find that for what you want? You will be spending days you should be at the lake/seashore on that tractor.
I just graduated from N Fords to an 860. When I stumble onto a good deal that may turn into a 3000 or newer.
Rick
caterpillar guy
Well-known Member
Skip all that do not have Live hydraulics, and live or independent PTO you will be so much happier with your experience. Who would want a tractor you can't work the left brake while using the clutch well. Such a mistake building a left brake beside the clutch pedal. To top them off no power to work with either. Our Ih H has more to work with than an N series model. 3Pt hitch is not all it is cracked up to be wrestling with implements to get the arms to line up with the pins or holes for pins. I have never missed the 3pt hitch and never saw the so-called advantage to them after that.
Sure they still have parts available you need them.
Sure they still have parts available you need them.
Tony in SD
Well-known Member
8Ns were way ahead of their time in the 40's-50's but that was 70 years ago. There are a lot of fond memories on the 8N as I grew up. It was by far the easiest tractor to drive when i was little. But the
technology has changed a lot since the Ns were designed and built. You will be much happier with live power on the PTO and 3 point for mowing. Can it be done? Yes and I have mowed with a 5 foot finish
mower and 7 foot Deerborn mounted sickle mower. Would I go back? Not other than to show how it was done. Would I put a loader on a 8N? Not any more. Would I sell my 8N? No. My Grandson will get
Grandpa's tractor soon.
Not sure of your budget but you might consider a 20 year old utility tractor. They are front wheel assist, live PTO, 3 Point and hydraulics, power steering, front end is designed for a loader, more comfortable
cockpit, cab options are available, I personally have a Hydro JD 4700 with a JD 460 loader and dozer blade on the front. I use a 7 foot finish mower on the back. The Hydro makes it so handy for both the
loader and mowing operations to change direction of travel. Along with infinite speeds up to about 15 MPH.
technology has changed a lot since the Ns were designed and built. You will be much happier with live power on the PTO and 3 point for mowing. Can it be done? Yes and I have mowed with a 5 foot finish
mower and 7 foot Deerborn mounted sickle mower. Would I go back? Not other than to show how it was done. Would I put a loader on a 8N? Not any more. Would I sell my 8N? No. My Grandson will get
Grandpa's tractor soon.
Not sure of your budget but you might consider a 20 year old utility tractor. They are front wheel assist, live PTO, 3 Point and hydraulics, power steering, front end is designed for a loader, more comfortable
cockpit, cab options are available, I personally have a Hydro JD 4700 with a JD 460 loader and dozer blade on the front. I use a 7 foot finish mower on the back. The Hydro makes it so handy for both the
loader and mowing operations to change direction of travel. Along with infinite speeds up to about 15 MPH.
I appreciate all the responses. I was thinking an 8N would work my small food plots and mix the clover on the old logging roads. Loved the price of them and also the look kind of cool as well. I need the tractor no more than 5500 pounds. Have some ash swells to go through on occasion. When pushing the roads out with a T595 I had some areas I impacted the area a bit. So weight is an issue as well. For the most part my tractor will be sitting. I ll plant most of my food plots end of July early August.
ell, before I read your last response, I was about to recommend (in keeping with other's escalation), that you go ahead and bite the bullet & plunk down 50-75K and get power everything, A/C sat radio and even GPS so that you will know the lat long of where you are mowing.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
No offense to anyone but I think the
NEED for live pto is completely wrong.
Live hydraulics yes but not live pto.
I used a 5' brush mower for years behind
an N and then a 2000 without live pto
and it did just fine if you put an over
running clutch on the pto.
I have live power on all of my Fords now
and like it of course.
But if I had to choose between live
power and power steering I would take
the power steering hands down. And I do
a lot of mowing with my tractors.
Ultimately an N is a handy little
machine that will still useful work for
you. The 3 point just makes them more
useful than all of the old drawbar
tractors of that era.
NEED for live pto is completely wrong.
Live hydraulics yes but not live pto.
I used a 5' brush mower for years behind
an N and then a 2000 without live pto
and it did just fine if you put an over
running clutch on the pto.
I have live power on all of my Fords now
and like it of course.
But if I had to choose between live
power and power steering I would take
the power steering hands down. And I do
a lot of mowing with my tractors.
Ultimately an N is a handy little
machine that will still useful work for
you. The 3 point just makes them more
useful than all of the old drawbar
tractors of that era.
Bob N.Y.
Well-known Member
- Location
- Norway, N.Y.
The AC WD and WD45 had a big advantage over that arrangement on the Jubilee because the hand operated clutch was ahead of the transmission. It is possible to shift gears without interrupting the PTO on them.
3/9semfi, I?m not an N hater, been around them a long time,
but now a days you can find a better tractor for the same
amount or just a tad more, if you are set on buying an N then
go for it, just know you?ll have limitations with it that you would
not have with the next couple of generations of tractors. I like
N?s and may own another one one day but it?ll never be a
tractor I solely depend on for hard labor...
but now a days you can find a better tractor for the same
amount or just a tad more, if you are set on buying an N then
go for it, just know you?ll have limitations with it that you would
not have with the next couple of generations of tractors. I like
N?s and may own another one one day but it?ll never be a
tractor I solely depend on for hard labor...
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
Come on jmor,
Did the OP mention, or even hint at
wanting to run a baler?
Did the OP mention, or even hint at
wanting to run a baler?
o, but you did make a blanket statement, without qualification.
" No offense to anyone but I think the
NEED for live pto is completely wrong. " If you would like to amend it to using a mower, I'll go along with that, just as I would say that power steering is of little use on a light tractor on the open plains.
One size doesn't fit all.
the biggest problem with the n tractors they are not live hydraulics. putting an over riding clutch on your pto will help you with brush hogging. if you keep the 8n garaged, run it every few days, convert it over to 12 volt it most likely will run fine anytime you need it. let it sit to long, outside in the elements you asking for trouble. I have had 3 8n tractors. wont have anymore. there are other tractors out there that are a whole lot more versatile and dependable than those. there selling around here for under 1000 dollars now. there market has really gone south. I would shop around and don't get in a hurry. power steering is nice but not a necessity. live hydraulics is a must and live power is very nice to have. just remember when you buy an implement to put on your tractor they are rated for that. go any bigger and you might cause problem in rear ends. good luck on what ever you do cause as always its the buyers decision.
caterpillar guy
Well-known Member
Since the 2 or 3 usually go together on tractors. When you move to live hydraulics, you usually get the PTO and power steering with it. If you ever watched a guy try to run a bushog, with no live PTO. When starting out you would agree with me about it. They want to push the clutch out not thinking about the possible consequences. This would be especially true with a green chopper or blower though not listed as uses.
A lot depends on your conditions, but in general:
Bottom plow - 1 x 16, 2 x 12 or maybe 2 x 14.
Disk - I use a 6 ft lighter duty one. Too big will lift the front tires.
Rotary mower - 5ft with an ORC on the PTO shaft
Finish mower - 6 ft
Back blade - 6 ft
Box blade - 5 ft
Rake would depend on the type.
Bottom plow - 1 x 16, 2 x 12 or maybe 2 x 14.
Disk - I use a 6 ft lighter duty one. Too big will lift the front tires.
Rotary mower - 5ft with an ORC on the PTO shaft
Finish mower - 6 ft
Back blade - 6 ft
Box blade - 5 ft
Rake would depend on the type.
"So is a 2000 able to do all/most of the things mentioned as needed?"
Maybe. It will have live hydraulics. It may have the other options or not.
If the 2000 has a 4 speed transmission, it's still non-live PTO.
That goes for all the Fords of that vintage or older that I know of.
Maybe. It will have live hydraulics. It may have the other options or not.
If the 2000 has a 4 speed transmission, it's still non-live PTO.
That goes for all the Fords of that vintage or older that I know of.
"if it has the 5 speed, it will be live?"
You must be talking about the earlier 4 cylinder 2000 as opposed
to the later 3 cylinder 2000. In that case, yes the 5 speed will have
live PTO provided by a two stage clutch. Half way down stops the
tractor movement but not the PTO. All the way down stops both.
The x00 and x01 tractors could have a 5 speed with or without live PTO.
You must be talking about the earlier 4 cylinder 2000 as opposed
to the later 3 cylinder 2000. In that case, yes the 5 speed will have
live PTO provided by a two stage clutch. Half way down stops the
tractor movement but not the PTO. All the way down stops both.
The x00 and x01 tractors could have a 5 speed with or without live PTO.
No but he did not say what he was wanting to use the mower on was not 3 foot tall thick grass with brush 2" in diameter he was wanting to chop down either. Get in that and without the live PTO you will not be able to move tractor. Now 6" tall grass probably work OK without the live PTO.
Only if it was ordered new by someone that knew he was going to depend on the PTO operation heavy. If he was just wanting the tractor for NON PTO operation he did not want to spend the extra money for the live PTO. And when those tractors were made very few people ever heard of a brush hog rotary type of mower and for a cycle bar type of mower only the live PTO did not make that much of a difference. He unless was planning on using a PTO powered combine or baler or corn picker usually did not have a reason to spend the extra mony for the live PTO but that extra ground speed ment he could pull different ground enguaging implements easier. For someone that is not used to using a pto on a tractor the 2 stage clutch is safer as in a panic stop where you want everything to stop imediatly it will be like hitting the clutch on your stick shift car, only one thing to think about in that panic condition. Now the independant tupe that replaced the 2 stage clutch type PTO you not only in that panic stop have to think about putting the clutch down but grabbing the PTO lever at the same time while trying to steer with both habds, need a third hand.
BushogPapa
Well-known Member
OK, WHERE is he located..??
I have a Very good Diesel Ford 3000 With 6 ft Bushog Brand Bushog, Power steering, New 16.9x24" Loaded, Drawbar, good BLUE Paint for $ 3,100 Firm..Central, Ohio..
Will make ya throw rocks at that 8n..!!
Maybe better stated as what an N owner wanted it to be. I grew up with an 8N- suffered through scraping the dairy barn, getting to the end of the run, depress clutch, take out of gear, release clutch, lift the blade, depress clutch, put in gear and have another run at it. Makes me tired just thinking about it. I agree that AGCO parts support is pathetic, but I can always find parts for my 550 diesel, and have never bought anything from AGCO/White.
Can't remember who on here said it several years ago, in a discussion about how useless the N Fords are- "That's not true. They're very handy for going down and getting the mail. As long as you don't have much mail."
Can't remember who on here said it several years ago, in a discussion about how useless the N Fords are- "That's not true. They're very handy for going down and getting the mail. As long as you don't have much mail."
I m an old jarhead that hasn t ever worked a tractor nor understands the ins and outs of one. Yet, I appreciate the posts on the thread. I can relate the importance to certain things to things I do know, weapons. With that said, it seems my search should be directed towards a 2000(if it s live) or a 3000. The unfortunate thing is, these tractors are a bit more cheddar than an 8N. The money isn t the issue in my mind, it s the actual amount of time I ll actually be using the tractor. I have zero problem spending money on something that I know I m going to get my monies worth out of it. In my original post o should have been more clearer about my needs and duties. I have theee fields to work, biggest field being 6 acres. Other two around an acre each. My ground is very workable. All my logging roads are cleared. I ll be planting a clover mixture on these roads and this is what I ll be mowing. My reasons for an 8N was solely on cost and weight. But I m smart enough to know that my time is money. The sooner I get done with the field work I can move on to something else. I live in northern mn, if any leads on a 2000 or 3000 feel free to direct the info my way. Appreciate the intel
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
My property is in Aitkin, MN.
I get up there fairly often to mow. Was
hoping to go this coming weekend but
it's looking like thunderstorms both
days so I likely won't go this weekend.
Probably the weekend of the 4th if that
is better weather.
If you are anywhere close to there I
could put you on my 3000 diesel with 6'
Bush Hog mower for an hour or two and
let you get a feel for the thing.
I do the deer plotting thing too but
won't be doing much of that now till
late August.
I could put you on my good friend's 841
diesel too as he's storing it at my
place up there.
If you could find someone to let you use
an N for an hour or two I'm sure you
would learn enough to make the "right
choice" between the two (or 3) tractors.
There really isn't any comparison.
I could look for a decent deal for you
too as I watch the Fords on craigslist
Every day and could give you a heads up
if I saw something worthwhile.
My theory is the next best thing to
getting a good tractor yourself is
helping a friend get one.
My email is always open here so shoot me
an email if you want to talk about it
more.
I get up there fairly often to mow. Was
hoping to go this coming weekend but
it's looking like thunderstorms both
days so I likely won't go this weekend.
Probably the weekend of the 4th if that
is better weather.
If you are anywhere close to there I
could put you on my 3000 diesel with 6'
Bush Hog mower for an hour or two and
let you get a feel for the thing.
I do the deer plotting thing too but
won't be doing much of that now till
late August.
I could put you on my good friend's 841
diesel too as he's storing it at my
place up there.
If you could find someone to let you use
an N for an hour or two I'm sure you
would learn enough to make the "right
choice" between the two (or 3) tractors.
There really isn't any comparison.
I could look for a decent deal for you
too as I watch the Fords on craigslist
Every day and could give you a heads up
if I saw something worthwhile.
My theory is the next best thing to
getting a good tractor yourself is
helping a friend get one.
My email is always open here so shoot me
an email if you want to talk about it
more.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
I have little experience with other tractors that the good folks here know much about. I have had an 8N for about 4 years, and I use it as a hobby tool.
Sad to see the world has truly passed the 8N by for most AG work. It will mow, it will do a little cultivating, it will rake, and hog, and scrape, and do all those little things around the land that need doing.
But - it will not be fast, it will not be very comfy, and it will not be convenient. You MUST have 3 feet and 5 hands with a PTO device on the back. You MUST have an over-running coupler. You MUST have good arm strength and the ability to double, triple, quadruple clutch while operating the lift and maybe also the PTO stick.
Yes, the 8N would do your job. Take care of it, fix leaks, keep good tires on the back and don't get in a rush. Or pass up those golden hours learning the ropes with an 8N and just get a Ford 3000 with diesel and a loader on it. Any goober with a room temp IQ can run one of those and never worry about power, or shifting, or clutching, or running by the PTO, or yanking hard on the wheel, etc.
Sad to see the world has truly passed the 8N by for most AG work. It will mow, it will do a little cultivating, it will rake, and hog, and scrape, and do all those little things around the land that need doing.
But - it will not be fast, it will not be very comfy, and it will not be convenient. You MUST have 3 feet and 5 hands with a PTO device on the back. You MUST have an over-running coupler. You MUST have good arm strength and the ability to double, triple, quadruple clutch while operating the lift and maybe also the PTO stick.
Yes, the 8N would do your job. Take care of it, fix leaks, keep good tires on the back and don't get in a rush. Or pass up those golden hours learning the ropes with an 8N and just get a Ford 3000 with diesel and a loader on it. Any goober with a room temp IQ can run one of those and never worry about power, or shifting, or clutching, or running by the PTO, or yanking hard on the wheel, etc.
zuhnc
Member
- Location
- Macks Creek, MO
Well, I have to jump into this discussion. I have a 1951 8N. I rebuilt the steering box and front spindles, as well as the carburetor and installed electronic 12V ignition. I also completely rebuild a well-abused 5' Bush Hog (tm) model 502. I have 40 acres to maintain. The last time I mowed with it, I had grass (?) at least 3' tall, as well as some black berry brambles, smallish (2-3" diameter) cedar and other trees, and some other troublesome brush. The land is hilly, southeast Missouri in Camden County. I have had NO issues with mowing any of this. Yes, the non-live PTO does present some issues, but nothing insurmountable. For already cleared fire trails and less than 2 foot grass, the 8N will handle it. For short grass, clover, etc., 2nd gear will probably be ok. With the rebuilt and PROPERLY adjusted steering gear, properly adjusted toe-in, good spindle bushings and thrust bearings, power steering is really not needed. I can turn mine just as easily as turning the old cars that didn't have power steering. An over-running clutch on the PTO shaft is a MUST HAVE, as well as proper shaft guards. Good luck with the 8N, if you decide to purchase. zuhnc
docmirror, I have experience with a lot of different tractors and I
still love the old N series Fords. Are there better tractors? Sure.
All tractor models were improved over time if they weren't just
abandoned and I own several of them of different brands.
None of the tractors from that era are "make a living" tractors
now. At least not as the sole tractor on the farm.
But the little Ns are still very useful and fit very well into hobby
operations and tight spaces where some other tractors do not.
Most of the complaints I hear about them are from people who did
not understand how they worked well enough to operate them
or adjust them. All of which is covered in the operator's manual.
At 500,000+ sold, there were plenty of people who thought they
were quite useful. The number of them still running and working
and the availability of parts to keep them that way makes me
think there still people out there that believe they are.
still love the old N series Fords. Are there better tractors? Sure.
All tractor models were improved over time if they weren't just
abandoned and I own several of them of different brands.
None of the tractors from that era are "make a living" tractors
now. At least not as the sole tractor on the farm.
But the little Ns are still very useful and fit very well into hobby
operations and tight spaces where some other tractors do not.
Most of the complaints I hear about them are from people who did
not understand how they worked well enough to operate them
or adjust them. All of which is covered in the operator's manual.
At 500,000+ sold, there were plenty of people who thought they
were quite useful. The number of them still running and working
and the availability of parts to keep them that way makes me
think there still people out there that believe they are.
I'm gonna call you on that one. I just got rid of an 8N. Had a fresh engine too. Ran great. 5' hog was too much for it unless you were taking less than 4' cuts. In brush and 3' grass? Maybe 1/2 a cut. And yea, that was slightly nose down and fresh edges on the blades. Now I have an 860. It handles a 5' hog in brush great. Much better than the 8N ever did.
Rick
Royce, I think you said basically what I said with a little twist. I used my 8N just yesterday to bore a hole for a post. No muss, no fuss. Hope on, locate, set the brake, and down we go. No argument from me that a well tended 8N has a lot of useful jobs.
I was amazed that I could brush hog an acre of high grass and light brush at 7000' elevation. I had a sharp blade on the mower, and my tractor is in top condition. It wasn't fast, and some of the spots really drug down slow. I started with the mower at the high setting, and made a second pass somewhat lower.
Like I said, a bit extra time, a bit slower, and keep all arms and legs moving all the time. There are pics on here of me putting up roof trusses with my loader and an extension made of drill stem. I Bladed a country road last month after some rains, and I had to adjust the blade angle down a bit, but we got the job done.
8N is a darn useful tool if it's kept up. I have a concern that many of the little tractors are not tuned well, or losing compression, or bad mixture or all of those issues and more.
I'm in the market for a 3000 just because. No rush, waiting for the right rig, and right deal. I'll still keep the 8N though.
I was amazed that I could brush hog an acre of high grass and light brush at 7000' elevation. I had a sharp blade on the mower, and my tractor is in top condition. It wasn't fast, and some of the spots really drug down slow. I started with the mower at the high setting, and made a second pass somewhat lower.
Like I said, a bit extra time, a bit slower, and keep all arms and legs moving all the time. There are pics on here of me putting up roof trusses with my loader and an extension made of drill stem. I Bladed a country road last month after some rains, and I had to adjust the blade angle down a bit, but we got the job done.
8N is a darn useful tool if it's kept up. I have a concern that many of the little tractors are not tuned well, or losing compression, or bad mixture or all of those issues and more.
I'm in the market for a 3000 just because. No rush, waiting for the right rig, and right deal. I'll still keep the 8N though.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
I don't dispute anything you wrote.
But let me ask you this:
Have you ever owned or run a tractor
other than your N?
I see a lot of guys who have never owned
a tractor buy an N, put it to work and
do a Lot of useful things with it.
They are delighted, even amazed at what
those little tractors will do.
But they have never owned or operated
another tractor so don't have a basis
for comparison.
I started with a 2N and liked it a lot.
But I wanted a little more tractor so I
upgraded to a 641. It was a much better
machine and would do more work.
Then I found a 3000 and upgraded again.
Ive since owned a bunch of Fords and now
own a 3000 and a couple of 4000s.
They are all diesels.
I now have some history and can make an
informed comparison.
My opinion: Skip the Ns.
Get at least a 600.
For 30% more $ you get twice the
tractor.
They are more capable, more reliable,
have more features and equally important
to us hobby type weekend warriors, just
as fun to run.
I don't think Ns are bad tractors but I
would cry if I ever had to go back to
using one.
But let me ask you this:
Have you ever owned or run a tractor
other than your N?
I see a lot of guys who have never owned
a tractor buy an N, put it to work and
do a Lot of useful things with it.
They are delighted, even amazed at what
those little tractors will do.
But they have never owned or operated
another tractor so don't have a basis
for comparison.
I started with a 2N and liked it a lot.
But I wanted a little more tractor so I
upgraded to a 641. It was a much better
machine and would do more work.
Then I found a 3000 and upgraded again.
Ive since owned a bunch of Fords and now
own a 3000 and a couple of 4000s.
They are all diesels.
I now have some history and can make an
informed comparison.
My opinion: Skip the Ns.
Get at least a 600.
For 30% more $ you get twice the
tractor.
They are more capable, more reliable,
have more features and equally important
to us hobby type weekend warriors, just
as fun to run.
I don't think Ns are bad tractors but I
would cry if I ever had to go back to
using one.
Pretty sure this was for me, so I'll respond. Yep, I bought a JD 2010. Got it dirt cheap, so it wasn't the finest example. Had more power of course so it would do everything the 8N would do, just a bit better. Had Deere version of 'live hyd' and independent PTO. It worked better than the 8N. I used the 2010 for a couple of scarping jobs, and I did fit the auger to it, and drill a couple holes. Everything was more useful on the 2010 compared to the same task on the 8N.
Which is what I've been saying in this thread since my first foray. Newer, bigger tractors will be easier, faster, deeper, harder, etc. None of that STOPS me from using the 8N, it's now just a matter of where is the 2010, and where is the 8N when I need a job done. In fact, I'm selling the 2010 and keeping the 8N just because I don't want the hassle of the shifting, and the fuel consumption of the bigger tractor.
I have to give credit for two things on the 2010. It has fantastic PS and brakes. These two features alone set it well apart from the 8N. If it shifted like a normal tractor, and didn't use so darn much gas, I would keep it and put more hours on it.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
No. Wasn't a reply to you.
It was a reply to zuhnc.
See it in classic view.
It was a reply to zuhnc.
See it in classic view.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
The 15/17/1910s and 20s were good
machines but they're getting long in
tooth now.
But before you buy one check for parts
availability. Unlike the US built Fords
some - most? of those Shibaura built
Fords have very poor parts availability
as in, no longer available anywhere
except used and those are exorbatantly
priced.
I think I would rather see you with an
8N than a 1920. If only for parts
availability.
machines but they're getting long in
tooth now.
But before you buy one check for parts
availability. Unlike the US built Fords
some - most? of those Shibaura built
Fords have very poor parts availability
as in, no longer available anywhere
except used and those are exorbatantly
priced.
I think I would rather see you with an
8N than a 1920. If only for parts
availability.
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