How I stop hitch pins from dragging hay

Bruce from Can.

Well-known Member
In a earlier thread, wolfman was asking about using
a short grade 8 bolt instead of a draw pin, to keep
from having hay dragged by the draw pin from being
a problem. What I do is find a piece of pipe that the
draw pin will fit through, and cut off a piece at
whatever length needed 1-2 inches, and put the
pipe on the draw pin, before I drop the pin into the
baler, or rake or haybine . So long as there is
enough draw pin sticking through the bottom to put
a hairpin through, and no more dragging hay. With
my old NH haybine, when I unhook, I leave the
piece of pipe slid down the jack handle. The baler
pin stays with the baler, and requires a different
length of pipe. Simple solution, and no worries
about the draw bolt being too hard, or soft.
 
I have a couple of pieces of old rubber conveyor belt with a hole cut the in each that lets me slide one on the drawbar. It hangs down in front of the pin and implement hitch and keeps them from catching hay.
 
Hi, we used to do what ffreeb does. Also we wired a piece of beltinf to drag under the pto connection to keep hay fron winding up on the haft. Ed Will
 
I made a kinda mudflap out of 3/8"x1" strap metal 6 inches long.bored a hole to bolt in front of last hole in drawbar bolted a foot long piece of round baler belting to it.
Then started growing hay beans ended up making a sheet metal skid plate under my tractor.hay beans and vetch can find the littlest thing to grab then pull a mile of windrow under a tractor
I had an old sign was painted several times.put it under my 1650 oliver,cut to fit.baled 100 round bales.was looking and the metal sheet was polished like chrome
 
I use a domed top link put in from the bottom. Put one washer next to the dome and shim with one or two on the top to keep the lynch pin from rubbin on the hitch.
 
As others mentioned, make a V shaped mudflap and attach it to the drawbar infront of the pin. Works just fine, firm rubber best....like an old mud flap, thin sheetmetal (corrugated roofing tin) works.
 
My Claus rake and tedder have short pins that lock in on the top, so does the Deere round baler.
 
I made this out of an old plastic bucket. Works great
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I do like this plastic bucket idea. Very slick farmer engineering. Need to give it a try. Nothing like a big wad of stuff wrapped around the PTO.
cvphoto31573.jpg
 
I put the lift arms down within a couple of inches of the ground and they push the windrow down if I cross it when raking. That keeps the junk off the pin.
 
On my CaseIH 8520 inline baler I use a grade 8 bolt from the bottom up. So the nut and any extra bolt is pointing up.
 
Buy a short hitch pin put it in upside and use washers to take up any slack.Also can tie a mud flap under the tractor to help mash the hay down and keep hay from hanging in the baler hitch.
 
A farmer won?t make it to long if every time he needs any little thing he goes to town and buys it instead of using what you have
 
I like to be able to unhook from the baler quick in case of a baler fire so as to try and save tractor.
 
My hitch pin stays with the tractor. I know some guys leave the pin attached with a small chain to the implement. The upside down bolt would worry me: gravity will win, if it gets a chance. But, with the baler, I have a short hitch pin, that just goes thru the tongue, and gets the safety clip. And I use an old mudflap under the drawbar, similar to the plastic bucket pic shown below. I made my pin cutting it to length, and drilling a hole for the safety clip. Mark.
 
(quoted from post at 12:09:28 07/31/19) My hitch pin stays with the tractor. I know some guys leave the pin attached with a small chain to the implement. The upside down bolt would worry me: gravity will win, if it gets a chance. But, with the baler, I have a short hitch pin, that just goes thru the tongue, and gets the safety clip. And I use an old mudflap under the drawbar, similar to the plastic bucket pic shown below. I made my pin cutting it to length, and drilling a hole for the safety clip. Mark.

I leave the pin with all my implements, and have made shortened pins of exact length for all the hay-related tools. Use as large of diameter as will fit the tongue, drop it through and mark the length, add quarter inch for a new hole, cut and drill. Chamfer the edge if fancy. I use a small diameter clip pin rather than a spring pin. Zero windrow incidents this year.

Also, I like to cut a piece of hose (Tygon tubing) with an inside diameter to fit the pin and thick enough to fill most of the larger hole in the drawbar, this helps take some of the shock and most of the rattle out of the tool.

Definitely helps that I do all the farming by myself and don't need to teach all this to others.
 

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