Lower ball joint rr

Have to replace lower ball joint on 86 Chev 1/2t two wheel drive. Don't have the bought tools to replace. Has any one done this without them & how.

There are some parts shops, like O'Reilly's, who will lend you the tools needed. You put the tools on your card and they take the charges off your card when you return them.

I had one break on the 13 mile road from my farm to 'town'. Walked home and picked up my inverter and some tools - walked back with same. Already had the ball joint kit (boy scout) in the truck. Drilled out the rivets, used the 'came with' jack and bolted the unit back together. There was NO traffic on this road when I was there, Shirt happens and you do what you have to do. True story.

Don't care what you folks think of me, but I have a LOT of similar and true stories. HPH

A heavy C clamp can be used with sockets and pieces of pipe to push away from the flange or snap ring. It might be better to get a pickle fork (ball joint remover for the stem), then the press to push out the ball socket. Many parts houses will lend them. Jim

don't need any special tools. a hammer and jack and wrench for the nut. replaced piles of ball joints. jack the truck up in the centre. take the nut off and whack the spindle with a couple good solid blows and she will pop apart. then lift the upper control arm up out of way and pound the ball joint out. put new one in and put jack under it and jack up lower control arm and smack on out side of ball joint and she will pop back into place. lower top control arm onto ball joint and tighten up. takes me about 15 minutes.

Like others said, use a floor jack to push it in.

A word of caution, when removing the spindle from the lower ball joint, loosen the castle nut, but leave it on the stud. Hit the spindle from the side and the taper will pop loose.

The reason for leaving the nut on but loose, it contains the spring. Should the nut be removed, the shock of the releasing taper could break the shock mount, sending the lower a frame down with horrible force and the spring flying!!! Once popped loose, jack up under the end of the A frame until you see the BJ stud go back into the spindle. Then it is safe to remove the nut.

When using the jack to push the new ball joint in, the BJ must be kept straight as the a frame is beat down. If it starts going crooked, stop, get it straight. It will take several adjustments and some rigging to get it going straight. It won't straighten up as it goes in, only get worse if going crooked. When properly installed it will be all the way in against the stop, all the way around.

It helps to have the truck supported on stands under the frame on all 4 corners. That keeps it from rocking over when putting upward force on the BJ with the floor jack. Working on a good slab is almost a must.

Be careful! You will be dealing with lots of weight, awkward jacking positions. That spring is a killer if it gets away!

Anything like this, that you haven't done before, Youtube is your friend!

Would heating around the base make it come out easier?

your dealing with front end parts and heating is not advised. plus if not sure how its done best to have a qualified person do it or help you. your life and everyone else"s is involved if things go sideways. plus after replacing front end parts a wheel alignment is done.

No need to shadtree it most parts stores have a ball joint press they will loan ya...