How do I get this pin out?

rszimm · Nov 18, 2019

This is the pin that holds the main lift cylinder on my 1985 Ford Skid Steer. I've got the retaining bolt out but for the life of me I can't get this damn pin out. I've got a 15mm impact socket held with vice grips and I've banged on that with a 15lb sledge and it simply won't budge. There's less room on the inside but I've banged on that with a hand held mallet with equal success.

This morning I pulled out the big guns and oxy-ace blasted it with a rosebud, but I was nervous about letting is sit for too long given the rubber hoses and gas tank in close proximity. Still didn't freakin budge.

Photos:
https://i.imgur.com/nUwBi38.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/o2Bqi3q.jpg

jon f mn · Nov 18, 2019

What you are doing is right.
Where is it tight? There are
three places it can be siezed,
make sure your heating the
stuck portion. Then just heat
and hammer. If you have an air
hammer that might help.

Janicholson · Nov 18, 2019

I would drill a 1/4" hole 1/2" in it, away from the side of it. I would enlarge it to 1/2 inch, then hack saw to the side (jab saw) doing this more than once across the diameter will collapse it. Jim

rszimm · Nov 18, 2019

(quoted from post at 11:14:15 11/18/19) What you are doing is right.
Where is it tight? There are
three places it can be siezed,
make sure your heating the
stuck portion. Then just heat
and hammer. If you have an air
hammer that might help.

I have a cheapo Harbor Freight air hammer that I hit it with (that's what galled up the outside there in the photo). Didn't do anything. I know it's not stuck on the cylinder as I can easily move that back and forth. I tried heating both sides and have not had any luck, but again I only blasted it for maybe 30 seconds as I was worried about the hoses and fuel tank (not to mention the rubber bits inside the cylinder). Maybe I'll try draining the tank and removing all the hoses and really give it a thorough heating. (can't be stuck if it's a liquid!)

rszimm · Nov 18, 2019

Hmm. You've got me thinking. I could use my mag drill and put hole and tap it for a 1/2" bolt in the end, and then maybe pull it out with something akin to a bearing puller (or I could just weld up a U shaped doo-dad).

Jim.ME · Nov 18, 2019

Since you have a mag drill go for a 35/64 hole and tap to 5/8-11 or 21/32 to tap to 3/4-10. Get some B7 grade rod and grade 8 or heavy hex nuts to pull with. A piece of pipe, a few inches long, larger in diameter than the pin and a plate, with a hole for the rod to pass through, across it will work to make a standoff to pull on. Go as deep as you can with the hole as it will help relieve the pin. Shield as best you can. You need to heat the boss in next to the cylinder. 30 seconds won't do it even with a rose bud, sometimes you can control the direction of the heat better with a large welding tip in a place like that. Beeswax or candle wax will often wick into a hot joint similar to the way solder does. JMHO

grizz02 · Nov 18, 2019

get some sheet metal to protect the lines and tank first , old license plates or what ever you have and put the heat to it

Brian G. NY · Nov 18, 2019

I'm with the guys that say drill and tap so you can pull the pin.
In my experience, hammering on a pin that is already tight tends to expand it and make it even tighter.......akin to setting a rivet.

Steve@Advance · Nov 18, 2019

Problem with trying to drill it and tap or split it with a Sawzall, it is probably hardened.

I would remove the hydraulic lines, cover the tank with insulation and/or a piece of sheet metal, keep the fire extinguisher handy, and put the heat to the sleeves.

Be ready to give it a sever beating once everything is plenty hot.

504 · Nov 18, 2019

From here it looks like the cylinder is stuck. I would drill it, then heat it and let it cool some, then drive it out. If you stop drilling about inch from the end, that will leave you a stop to put a punch or bolt in to drive it out. The rose bud is your friend.

JimKS · Nov 18, 2019

The best method I have found in 50 plus years of repair work is to heat it good and hot then cool it fast
with water.I have surprised a lot of people doing this. Also works good on nuts.

Jim

rszimm · Nov 18, 2019

So after blasting it with the heat and completely exhausting myself banging away on it I finally got it out. (I tried the drill/tap method, but I broke my tap off in it

)

It's a little bent and has a lot of wear on it (probably from being abused and not lubed for 40 years). I tried brushing it up but it still won't slide through the hole easily. I tried chucking it into my lathe, but it's bent enough that by the time I got it true I'd take waaay too much meat off.

So I guess I'm going to have to replace this 1" pin. Does Tractor Supply stock things like this? 1" dia x 9.5" long.

4wdtom · Nov 18, 2019

You might find a case hardened pin in the McMaster Carr catalog, on line, if you don't have one. Maybe even with a threaded hole in the end. I would thread the end of a
new pin anyway, just grind through the case, then drill and tap. You said you have a lathe so easy.

Stephen Newell · Nov 18, 2019

It looks big enough you might weld an eyelet hook to the end of it and then use a slide hammer. On the right side though, is there a sleeve with a set screw in it like the left side?

moll · Nov 18, 2019

This way, we do this all the time when working with rusted in pins. Drilling out some
of the pin center relieves pressure.

rszimm · Nov 18, 2019

(quoted from post at 15:15:09 11/18/19) It looks big enough you might weld an eyelet hook to the end of it and then use a slide hammer. On the right side though, is there a sleeve with a set screw in it like the left side?

That's a good idea with the eyelet hook. Someone replaced one at the front of a different cylinder with one that looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/DOUBLE-HH-21261-Top-Link/dp/B016TQMFTM So there's a groove at the end that you can get a tool onto to pry it out if this ever happened again. Although my suspicion is that if I keep this well lubed it'll likely never have a problem again.

rszimm · Nov 18, 2019

Having a heck of a time finding a pin that's 9.5" long. I have some 1-1/4" diameter steel that I could turn down, but that's going to take hours. What do you guys think about using a 1" diameter bolt like this: https://www.amazon.com/External-B18...L2E/ref=sr_1_22?fst=as:off&qid=1574117968

Steve@Advance · Nov 18, 2019

Something like this would be better suited.
1

super99 · Nov 18, 2019

When you get your new pin, use Neverseize on the stationary parts of the pin, not the cylinder part. Chris

Jim.ME · Nov 18, 2019

Have you checked with a New Holland or Thomas dealer for the actual pin? The parts catalog for a CL65 shows part number TH22604 subs to TH38575 (about 9-3/8" long). If you are going to make one, I will second the suggestion made by Steve@Advance. If you chose to go with a bolt as you posted earlier I would use at least grade 5, maybe grade 8; not grade 2.

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