Compression VH4D

srollins

New User
Hello everyone,

I recently picked up a 1980/81 New Holland skid loader that was neglected pretty bad, I would like to save her but I'm not sure if the engine is worth saving . I performed a dry and wet compression test and the results are as follows, facing the rear top right , bottom right, top left, bottom left - dry 71, 70, 70, 75

Wet same order- 90, 82, 80, 90
I couldn't find too much info on this just wondering if this machine is worth saving or is she done?

Thanks,
Scott
 
If it has sat a long time good chance the rings are stuck on the pistons and a good say week of soaking the cylinder with ATF would help. Fill them up and if you can pour ATF into the exhaust and carb that way it gets to the valves and rings
 
Was the machine sitting around unused for a long time, or has it been running and working?

A compression test is pretty much meaningless on an engine that has not been run and worked for a while.

If that's the case, run it, work it, put some hours on it, then check again.

Does it burn oil?

It wouldn't be unusual for a Wisconsin to need the valves touched up, but if it burns oil and has the bores worn "out of round" and needs to be rebored things will get REAL expensive.
 
New replacement long block assembly for a Melroe Bobcat Model's 630 and 730.For top mount distributor. Crankshaft at pto side sticks out about 7/8" from the
face of the case with a 7/8" dia thread 12 threads per inch.

Description of a WISCONSIN LONG BLOCK ASSEMBLY

A Wisconsin long block is a low cost alternative to replacing the complete engine and is especially practical when all your external components are in good
condition. A long block is manufactured by and supplied by the factory. Basically they make a standard engine production run and pull them off the line before
they start attaching all the external components. This guarantees consistent quality.

A long block assembly is made up of the following components;

1) crankcase, cylinder barrels and heads
2) front and rear main bearing plates
3) pistons, rings, crankshaft, camshaft, valves, guides, etc
4) all is assembled complete ready to transfer over your old components and they include all the gaskets you require to install your magneto or distributor
drive, carb, fuel pump, intake and exhaust manifold, etc.

$3,500
no
exchange
required
https://www.wisconsinmotorscanada.ca/wengineinv4cyl.html
 
Not sure what normal compression would be, but all cylinders are within 10#s of each other,
wet or dry. I don't see the cause for alarm.
 
That's good enough to run.

Once running you can make further evaluations of the engine and the entire machine.

Put it through the paces, make note of how everything performs, leaks, noises, everything that will need to be addressed.

That way you can get some idea of the cost, and do it all at once. Nothing worse than being right there, missing a problem, and having to go back in.
 
You have excellent compression,it sounds even better when you say it has been sitting.I wore two of those engines down in an M-700 Bobcat.They have ball bearings for the crank to
run in,and they run in oil.That part never wears out.I always found that if the air filter was kept hooked up,the jugs didn't seem to wear much.I've seen the pistons worn almost
egg shaped,with the rings looking like thin snap rings,and have the cylinders still in usable shape.I put two sets of pistons in my Bobcat,but I can't complain,I got 2700 hours
out of them.I put another set in but only got about 800 hours before I sold it.If you do have to get into it,shop around.I know it's hard to believe,but you can find a
$1200.difference in just the top end parts.If you can't seem to find a factory compression spec on it,it's because Wisconsin didn't publish one.Over the years rebuilders have
come up numbers for them.
 
I think those old Wisconsin engines will
pretty much run til they self destruct.

One neighbor ran his old bobcat without
changing the oil til it threw a rod. I
bet it had 1/4" gaps on the rings, but it
still ran pretty decent.

Another neighbor has one he bought with
a bad head gasket between two cylinders.
It didn't run great, but still ran with
basically 2 dead cylinders. When we
fixed the gasket, we found a loose valve
seat too.

I'd say fire it up and see what you get.
 
Thanks for all the great info, sounds like I'm going to save her. I picked this up for 700.00 knowing the VH4D was a great engine. Now just need to
figure out the hydrolic pumps, not sure if you can rebuild yourself or just send them out ? Got a quote 1400.00 per pump OUCH!
 
So it has pump trouble? That puts a different light on things.Paying for hydraulic/hydrostatic problems will make you wish for engine problems.I know it doesn't run right now,so did the previous owner tell you that it had pump problems? What was it doing to make the owner think it had problems?
 
It's been a long time, but I think 90 was very good on them. Remember air
cooled motors are set up looser than normal. Stuck valves were the weak
point on them and you've got that beat. Good luck!
 

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