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Timing problems!

T

Tebernok

Member
I'm struggling with getting the timing right on my 1950 8N. At the top of the compression stroke in #1 cylinder the flywheel timing marks are nowhere to be seen. My question is, could I have screwed up the flywheel position by inadvertently spinning it in the wrong direction with the screwdriver? If thats the case can I just set the timing without the marks if I know im at the compression stroke on #1 and aim the rotor at the #1 head bolt?
 
(quoted from post at 14:51:44 01/19/21) I'm struggling with getting the timing right on my 1950 8N. At the top of the compression stroke in #1 cylinder the flywheel timing marks are nowhere to be seen. My question is, could I have screwed up the flywheel position by inadvertently spinning it in the wrong direction with the screwdriver? If thats the case can I just set the timing without the marks if I know im at the compression stroke on #1 and aim the rotor at the #1 head bolt?
Click to expand...

In addition to what "old" told you have you confirmed that your flywheel HAS timing marks?

9N, 2N, and pre-side-mount distributor 8N's had NO timing marks on the flywheel.

If sometime in the past your tractor "acquired" a flywheel from an older tractor you won't find marks on the flywheel.

Lots of things can get swapped around in nearly 70 years!
 
I have seen the timing marks. Im going to
see if maybe I'm on the exhaust stroke. Im
maybe too cautious about spinning the
flywheel and just need to push it farther.
 
Your not going to hurt the flywheel turning it with a screw driver . The starter hit it pretty hard each time you start it. Shoot if the fan belt is as tight as it should be you can turn it with the water pump fan
 
Put a dense cotton "plug" in #1 spark plug hole. Turn the fan by hand (all plugs out) when the cotton ball pops out you are on the compression stroke. Then put a plastic soda straw in the hole on top of the piston. When it gets to the top the marks will be there. Jim
 
You have to be careful with that cotton or it can also be sucked into the cylinder which while it will not hurt any thing as such still can mess with a person mind and over think the fact it will just burn up when the engine fires
 
(quoted from post at 18:13:29 01/19/21) I have seen the timing marks. Im going to
see if maybe I'm on the exhaust stroke. Im
maybe too cautious about spinning the
flywheel and just need to push it farther.
Click to expand...
he #1 piston and the flywheel will be in EXACTLY the same position at TDC, WHETHER on Compression OR Exhaust stroke. Cam, valves, distributor will be in different position.
 
Was just messing with it and got it running albeit pretty rough. I messed with the distributor positioning and it evened out but then started to backfire. Im gonna mess around more tomorrow as its dark and my hands are frozen.
 
I time them as follows:

wide open throttle.
Move distributor back and forth for maximum RPM
Idle down
If idle rough or lopes then retard timing a little.
Get warmed up good
Shut off
Try a restart and if it kicks back on starter, retard timing a little.
 
plastic hydraulic fitting protectors sure work good for that. they just pop out when coming up on compression. like popcorn popping!
 
Are you 100% sure you have the firing order right on the cap?? An 8N will run on 2 cylinders and yet have 2 cylinder 180 out and if so it can backfire. Or it could also backfire due to running lean
 
Tebernock,

Do you have a vacuum gauge or an R. P. M Gauge?
If you do, I will post the procedure how to get the timing setting you want, power or economy,

Guido.
 
So exhaust and compression strokes really don't matter as they both point in the
same direction, I always thought it put them 180 off?
 
It will not run at all if it's 180 out.

Exhaust backfire is usually ignition problems, cross wired, arcing points, wet distributor, loose distributor loosing ground...

Intake backfire can be slow timing, valve problems.
 
I agree, but if a person is standing right there turning the fan, keeping the cotton from sucking in ia not a challenge. Good to bring it up though. Thanks. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 21:46:22 01/19/21) So exhaust and compression strokes really don't matter as they both point in the
same direction, I always thought it put them 180 off?
Click to expand...
ho said that? Backup & read carefully.
 
Tebernok,

If the engine is running, it is hopefully close to #1 timing mark. iI you have a good ear try this:
Loosen the distributor hold down screw just enough so you can turn it, but tight enough to stay tight when you start the engine.

Start and set the engine R.P.M.'s to a fast idle , about a 1000 R.P.M.' or choke cold speed.
Turn the distributor and note the engine speed. When you think you have the max speed, mark the position of the distributor.

Now turn the distributor the other way and mark the position of the distributor. Once you have done that, set the distributor in the middle of the two marks.

Return the engine to idle and see how it runs. If you need more power, just move the distributor to the high R.P.M.'s side a little, about 1/16 of an inch at the time, then test the engine. Just make sure you do not go all the way to the max R.P.M.'s mark, as the engine may ping.

See how this procedure works for you. Post back if you can,

Guido,
 
Good you ! I was looking for that post like the others ,tells us what was wrongs to the rookies can check for it when they get an issue.
 
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