Pickup tires - keep 4 ply or switch to load range E?

andy r

Member
My 2015 Chevrolet Silverado came with Goodyear Wrangler SRA 4 ply tires. I had really good luck with the factory set of tires. The next set of Goodyear Wrangler SRA's were poor. Seems like they would get breaks on the inside probably due to rock impacts. They must have changed the recipe for the rubber. So, no more Goodyear SRA's for me. The impact caused tread separation then a little bulge would develop on the outside. I am getting ready to replace the Goodyear tires. Last summer we bought a 26 foot bumper hitch camper. Around 6000 lbs. total towing weight. Bumper weight hitch wouldn't be excessive plus I have a Blue Ox weight transfer/stabilization hitch. My question is should I buy 10 ply load range E tires? Tire dealers generally say the OEM 4 ply tires are good enough. Also, with the 4 ply tires I would get a smoother and quieter ride when I am not pulling the trailer. The primary advantage of the 10 ply tires would be more security on the road. What are you guys doing and/or recommend? Thank you.
 
Everyone will say that they put safety first. A heavy load on light weight tires? Your call, but if you need a soft comfortable ride, buy a car. I put passenger tires on a truck once. Never again. Lets hope the only people to die in your accident are in your vehicle. Also, go to a better shop to buy your tires. Harsh? Yes
 
I have a 2018 Chevy 1500 extended cab, 4x4 with the 5.3 variable displacement. When new I took off the original tires and replaced them with Michlin, Load range E, immediately. I also added air lift assist to the rear axle.
My trailer is 30', 8600 pounds. I pump the tires up to 65 pounds (can go to 80). My hitch is load transfer and sway control.
Pulls great at 60 to 65 mph in tow/haul mode. Engine temp never budges.
 
My brother in law just put load range E on his F-150 for towing a 26ft camper. Said it really made a noticeable difference on how well the truck handled towing the camper. Just went from MN to Montana and back. Was glad he made the switch.
 
No need for E tires with that load, but if it makes you feel better go for it. They certainly dont drive as smooth, but if you pull a lot its not a bad idea. Youll have to reprogram your tire pressure warning system since they call for more pressure than the stock 4 ply.
 
My answer is two-fold.

First, I'll never buy Goodyear Wrangler tires again. Had one set delaminate. Goodyear snubbed their nose at me, even though there were less than 10,000 miles on the tires. They were nearly new when I bought a used truck, so no receipt was available. Still, tread was excellent.

On another truck, it had Goodyear Wrangler HP tires (in Arkansas). When we got back to MN there was snow on the ground. The truck repeatedly got stuck in 4WD in our own driveway!

I bought General Grabber AT2 light truck tires. They cost less, had better traction all around and a lot less road noise, and we NEVER got stuck in the snow!

Lastly, we were in an accident once and had General Grabber AT2 light truck tires. I'm thoroughly convinced that if we'd had passenger rated tires, we likely wouldn't be here now.

So #1, go with light truck tires. #2, I would avoid Goodyear brand. Unfortunately, I believe General Tire has now stopped manufacturing the Grabber AT2 tires. Don't have any experience with what has replaced them.
 

I would look on craigslist and or your gm dealers parts department for nearly new takeoff wheel and tire set.
GM pickup rims since 2000 are all interchangeable on half tons AFAIK.

Then you could replace the worn out tires with higher ply tires and run them when trailering.

Switch back to the soccer mom tires the rest of the time.
 
51 GMC 3/4 had 17 inch bias 8 ply way old tires. Purchased E rated 16 inch on American Racing 7 inch aluminum truck wheels. Gads what a difference. It is radically smoother, steers where it is supposed to and far more stable in corners. Jim
 
hat comes on a car or light truck from the factory is NOT the same as you buy at the tire store . Being a parts manager ya learn this stuff . IF i needed to change or have changed tires on a new car as we did not handle trucks i would call down to the Goodyear store and tell the manager that i haqd such and such car coming down for A tire change out , Lets say i needed E 70x14 custom power cushions , yep he had them in STOCK for the off the street people , BUT he would have to make a call to Akron and have four pulled under the Chrysler deal . The OEM Good Years that came on our 03 Dodge Durango lasted 83000m miles , well Bill was no longer at the store but i told the NEW guy that hey i want Chrysler Billing tires and i get yea no problem , i got handled this set looked the same but the first tire let go at 27000 and was replaced , at 31500 the next one went and before we hit the 35000 mile mark all four had been replace and the first of the lot busted a belt and we started all over again . They basically replaced two full sets of tire at there expense and when the sure pops started letting go again i did not go back i switched brands and never looked back . as for you if you had 4 ply from the factory and NOT knowing if it is a heavy half or a 3;/4 or what for a heavy half a C rating would be enough for a 3/4 then a D rated would be enough , only a one ton would you need a E rated tire .
 
that's probably why you got a good deal on your truck , when new, ha ha, Goodyear is the softest rubber tire on the road, the tire design mold, has every thing to do with, mileage , and ride, better rubber companies , will usually give you a better tire. almost all racers will use Goodyear tires, because of the soft rubber grip they get from the tire, the tire doesn't last very long. I have had a lot of blowouts, from low ply range tires, higher ply range tires, are the way to go, not cheap. mark55
 
Funny, you could unplug Good Year from your post and insert Michelin and I'd believe it. I used Michelin PU take-offs for my 16'
tandem trailer and the tire shops couldn't get a set of Ms off the rims without tearing up at least one sealing surface. GY came on
my 2011 Silverado and have been the only tire on it.
 

If using the truck as a truck or if driving off pavement . Install Lt tires . If nothing else, they are more puncture resistant .
 
Disagree with this completely. If you were not towing that trailer sure. What you are looking for is sidewall stiffness. Keep the rear of the truck firmly on track. I had a set of Coopers AT3 in D range I got good service with. Went to replace them and dealer said NLA. So I got E's Do ride rougher.
 
Also, with E's you will inflate them to suit the load. Less with out the trailer more with.
 
Well on my 51 the leaf springs are much less stresses with the smooth running 10 ply E tires on Aluminum wheels than the Rock solid 17 bias ply on Widow makers it had on it. Jim
 
NO not really , just like the factory batterys good grief the OEM Battery that came in our 96 Dodge Intrepid lasted for 10 years , the one that came in our 2003 Durango lasted almost 14 years , the ones that came in my 95 dodge 3500 Cummins lasted 12 years . The intrpid was replaced with and OEM battery and was still going strong when the car was scrapped due to rust thru on the ft. Sup. The Durango is setting out there now with it's second battery and she will still light the fire . NOW as for the truck WELL not so as i did not buy OEM and went Auto parts store on the one set and Walmarts on the next and they are NOT so good NOW , as for tires OEM on what i have bought NEW i have always gone over the 80K mark on the factory tires and if you can pull 50 K out of the same from the tire store your doing well , i personally have never been that lucky . Best tire i get now for the truck i can usully get 40-45K out of them , War Dept's car i get the best i can find and we get maybe 60K . I have been usen Coursers .
 

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