3 point versus IH hitch

MSFARMALL · Aug 3, 2021

I just recently bought a newer tractor with three point hitch but it is so much more difficult to hook implements up than the one point hitch on my Farmall 100. I realize the uniformity of the three point hitch and implements is a great advantage but it is tough to go from never leaving the tractor seat to hook and unhook an implement to getting off and wrestling everything in place trying to hook up three point equipment.
Anyone have any tips to make this easier?

centash · Aug 3, 2021

Quick Hitch.....adaptable to most 3 pth.

Ben

johnofnewhaven · Aug 3, 2021

Not sure what your new tractor or implements are but what about a quick hitch attachment.

gtractorfan · Aug 3, 2021

I use a piece of pipe about 6' long to put under and leverage things a little, might also need a heavy block of wood under the pipe.

Geo-TH,In · Aug 3, 2021

It's impossible to attach this

900# rear ballast without attaching a chain and lifting the weight with the terramite.
I lift my disk and SNOW plow using my little assist.

It's easy when things are hanging in the air.

DeltaRed · Aug 3, 2021

Telescopic tug links are yhe easiest.Just back up to within an inch or two from the pons.Then extend the arms and hook on to the pins.Then back up to set the tug links.Conect the top link and you are ready to work.No heavy liftimg,pushong/pulling needed.

MARK ROBKE · Aug 3, 2021

I was raised with an 8n Ford for which the implements(disc, plow, blade) were easy for me to attach, even as an 9yr old, and also 2 IH utility tractors with 2pt fast hitch. Everything was easy with them.
So when I got my own 3pt hitch CIH 485 there was a learning curve for attaching implements. I have 3 main things I unhook and hook all the time, disc mower, bush hog, and disc. I always park them in the same place. The disc and bush hog I set on boards. I back up very carefully and straight, keeping the lower lift arms at the height they will meet the implement. I am able to manhandle the mower easily, and the bush hog and disc I can move on the boards if I have to, without much strain on me. I have a bad back nowadays, so I don't like to strain myself at all. Mark.

Russ from MN · Aug 3, 2021

I have a sturdy wooden pry bar about 6 feet long that I use to move implements around. My wood splitter and post hole auger are hanging when in storage, that makes it easier to hook them up.

flying belgian · Aug 3, 2021

That Farmall fast-hitch was the cats meow. I had it on first a 560, then a 706. Pretty much effortless to hook up imp. I think todays big equip. got to heavy for 2 point.

Fordy20 · Aug 3, 2021

Quick hitch with hydraulic top link. Ground needs to be pretty even with just a quick hitch but with a hydraulic top link it works great. Dalton and Prince make real hydraulic top links - don't think just using a hydraulic cylinder works well. Sorry I don't have a better picture.

MSFARMALL · Aug 3, 2021

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. Im thinking a quick hitch is probably the best way to go.

SVcummins · Aug 3, 2021

Learn how to back up so you are in the line with the center of the hitch on the implement you want to hook on . Most real tractor have telescoping lower arms that make it a easy job to hook up no pry bar no trying to wrestle anything . Best way I learned was to line the pto shaft up in the center of the top link holes on the implement

Geo-TH,In · Aug 3, 2021

Better ask if a quick hitch will work on old equipment.

Traditional Farmer · Aug 3, 2021

Have a tractor for every implement

Tony in SD · Aug 3, 2021

X2 on quick hitch

JMOR · Aug 4, 2021

(quoted from post at 21:37:03 08/03/21) Have a tractor for every implement

hat will get 'er done!

rick n ohio · Aug 4, 2021

There is usually only one arm that telescope's up or down hook the other side up first that doesn't.then you can easily adjust up or down to hook it up easily. And also try to be as straight with the implement as you can when backing up.

BarnyardEngineering · Aug 4, 2021

(quoted from post at 17:08:04 08/03/21) Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. Im thinking a quick hitch is probably the best way to go.

Quick hitch only works on equipment that has the right spacing for the pins. Most stuff made in the last 10 years or so is, and many are marked with a "QH" sticker to indicate quick hitch compatible.

A lot of older stuff isn't. It's hit and miss. Sometimes you can adjust things to make them fit the quick hitch, other times not.

Sometimes it just pays to work smarter, not harder. If you have fabrication skills, build jack stands for implements like back blades and plows so you don't have to lift them. You can even make wooden stands to set them on if you want. Work on backing up to the implements more accurately. If you're crooked or off 2" to one side, move the tractor. Don't wrestle with the implement. The tractor can move itself. The implement can't.

BarnyardEngineering · Aug 4, 2021

By the way, I have two tractors with one-point fast hitches on them and they aren't all that and a bag of potato chips... I have never been able to hitch or unhitch without getting off and WRESTLING with the implement. Even lined up perfectly with the point and socket cleaned and lubed, all I do is push the implement around trying to latch it in, and carve up the landscape dragging the implement around trying to get it to come out.

Luckily the implements are small. One bottom plow, 5' disc.

Texasmark · Aug 4, 2021

Yeah, a Branson 6530 cab. Has all the bells and whistles for a one person implement mounting. That and a B 3.3 NA Cummins engine, air seat, some electric rather than manual controls are the reasons I bought it new back in 2007.

On the IH hitch, I recently bought a well used IH 8' tandem disc, model unknown, a drag type and put 4 150# JD weights on it. Got out on the neighbors land and was trying to correct 40+ years of neglect. Pin came out of the drawbar and the 6530 kept going but the plow stopped. The cylinder hoses (wheels up-down) did not quick disconnect and ripped the connections (threads yielded) out of the hyd manifold. Have it over at a machine shop attempting a modification so that I can put it back in service. No telling what a replacement would cost and how long it would take to get it.

Since then I have made significant changes to the interface (I should have paid more attention when hooking it up initially) and have a 3/8 chain (backup) around it now, connected to a lift arm so if my mods fail, I won't have the problem again.

fdt860 · Aug 5, 2021

(quoted from post at 04:42:06 08/04/21)

(quoted from post at 17:08:04 08/03/21) Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. Im thinking a quick hitch is probably the best way to go.

Click to expand...

Quick hitch only works on equipment that has the right spacing for the pins. Most stuff made in the last 10 years or so is, and many are marked with a "QH" sticker to indicate quick hitch compatible.

A lot of older stuff isn't. It's hit and miss. Sometimes you can adjust things to make them fit the quick hitch, other times not.

Sometimes it just pays to work smarter, not harder. If you have fabrication skills, build jack stands for implements like back blades and plows so you don't have to lift them. You can even make wooden stands to set them on if you want. Work on backing up to the implements more accurately. If you're crooked or off 2" to one side, move the tractor. Don't wrestle with the implement. The tractor can move itself. The implement can't.

Another option is quick disconnect lower links. They came standard on all European tractors during the 80s.
As strong as the quick release lower links. If you have adjustable stabiliser to position the lower links properly, then things are very easy to hook up.

Leroy · Aug 5, 2021

I was only around one quick hitch and it was on a 2020 RU Deere and 6' rotary mower. Fertilizer plant I was working at had it and I had the job of mowing and removing that mower. I could have did it easier and faster without that quick hitch and almost impossible to get past that hitch to hook up PTO Shaft or unhook shaft. I decide at that time I would never own one. And since that time I had a 4 bottom semi mount plow, chisel plow, 15' field cultivator as well as 4 secton how and 4 row rear mount cultivators. Only thing I ever had to hepl align was the 7' rear blade that if it would have had a stand would not have had a problem with it either.

3 point versus IH hitch

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