New to me Ford 6610

Hello all,

Long time viewer of this forum and figured I should start contributing and posting.

Just got myself a 1988 Ford 6610. Was able to get it really reasonable at $6500. Plan to use this tractor to run my swather, Stackliner and maybe some harrow work. Couple things on this tractor I have questions on and one problem I'm trying to address.

Does the injection pump on this tractor need to have its own oil changed or does it run off the engine oil? It's a Lucas injection pump and from what I can tell, this one didn't come factory on this tractor? Waiting for the operators and service manual so I am unsure at the moment. It looks like there is a drain plug and a fill plug.

The problem I am currently running into is the starter or starter solenoid. Once every 4 or 5 starts all the starter wants to do is "spin". The previous owner told me its a remanufactured starter and from the looks of the starter I believe him. It looks new. I tested the battery with my meter and it's reading normal. Do solenoids intermittently fail or is there something else I should check?



This post was edited by FrogCreekRanch on 08/08/2021 at 04:52 pm.

Good looking Ford, you stole it at that price, would easily bring $8500-9000 in my area if the AC was still operational

Nice looking unit. Hope you solve your minor probs. ;^)

Welcome Frog Creek!

Nice find!

Can't help with the injection pump question.

But the starter sounds like the drive gear clutch, it needs a new drive gear. The gear can be
bought separately, easy to replace. Rebuilt starters typically come with cheap components, buy a
new (not reconditioned) premium gear. If the starter is wet with oil from a leaking rear main, that
will shorten the starter drive gear life, they like to remain dry.

Buying a shop manual would be a valuable investment. Discussion forums have their place, but
nothing beats having verifiable information in hand when you need it!

That is a beautiful tractor! Maybe inquire on the coolant. We
had a 4610 years ago and the dealer told us to flush and
change the coolant every couple of years as it had sleeveless
cylinders that would corrode bad with old dirty coolant. Not
sure if thats an issue with a 6610 or not?

Awesome, thanks for the info! A new drive gear makes sense as the starter sounds like it's just not engaging sometimes, only spinning. It takes 2-3 bumps of the switch to get it to engage the flywheel.

I left the key on the other day by accident and it drained the battery. This is when the problem got worse for me but it could just be a coincidence as the previous owner said it would occasional act up on him as well. Got the battery fully charged up again and it still acted up.

Yep the shop manual is on the way.

Thank you. I am happy with it so far, although I have barely used it.

As far as the coolant goes I did some reading up on that before I purchased it. Ford has some porous block issues on these tractors in the 80's. The new "rib" design block after 1983 or 1984 seemed to help this issue, but not fix it. Coolant inhibitor tends to help I guess? I need to read up on this.

Anyway, no coolant or water in the oil so i hope I am ok.

The fuel spec card shows several injection pumps could be used. If the model number starts with the letter P, that's an inline pump that MAY have a separate oil reservoir
and needs changed. There are some very late inline pumps that were engine oiled. If the model number starts with 85, that's a DPS pump that's lubed by diesel fuel, no oil
needed. A picture of the pump would help.

Here is a photo!

That's a DPS rotary pump, no oil change needed.

I have a 7710 good solid tractors.
Good looking 6610 there

I have a 6610 in the shop we are finishing up right now, it must have a million hours on it. We tore it down back in April
for a rebuild and it had already been rebuilt, a poor job I might say. Whoever bored and sleeved the block pressed the
sleeves down too far and left a gap at top. Whoever owned it didn't take care of it either and the sleeves were already
cavitated. So new sleeves and then nnalert hit and we couldn't find a set of standard pistons from any of my suppliers. So we
bored the new sleeves.030 and went that route. All new valve train, cam, lifters and pushrods and the list keeps going,
completely rebuilt the Dual power and it has the inline pump that does need the oil changed. We will see how that turns out
when we get it on the Dyno. It and the injectors may get a rebuild too. These are great tractors but they are getting old and
it all depends how the previous owners treated them. Good luck with your find.

Looks a bit like mine
That injection pump is lubed by the fuel
I run standard green antifreeze with a coolant conditioner from NAPA

Congratulations on your purchase of a very nice looking 6610 at a very reasonable price. My 6700 had the ribbed block due to cylinder wall cavitation of original engine when I purchased it several yrs ago. For my use I like the older style hyd over CCLS hyd's. Yrs back I owned a 5610 with CCLS hyd's that the breakaways would not allow hyd oil to flow correctly.

ALSO,,, remember that you have a 6610 II or the later series. This is important as there were several improvements, better cab and hydraulics. So the early parts books and service manuals will only reflect the '81 to '86 6610 models. imo, you have a much better cab and a/c unit.

(quoted from post at 06:59:47 08/09/21) ALSO,,, remember that you have a 6610 II or the later series. This is important as there were several improvements, better cab and hydraulics. So the early parts books and service manuals will only reflect the '81 to '86 6610 models. imo, you have a much better cab and a/c unit.

Click to expand...

Thank you. Yes, I was able to confirm I have a 1988 Series II model by the badge under the hood.

That sure looks familiar. Do you run the standard 50/50 antifreeze with the NAPA conditioner or do you have a different mixture you use?

I purchase the concentrated antifreeze and mix my own, much cheaper than purchasing premixed