Stuck cub motor

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Bought a cub in June. Motor is stuck. Was in a barn for many years, guy cleaned out the barn and pushed the cub outside,no cover on exhaust. Was out a few weeks. Took head off. Rust on 2 valves and piston #3 had a small trail of rust running down cylinder wall. Otherwise looks good. Stuck the shop vac in each cylinder and cleaned em out. Blew compressed air in around each piston. Filled with Deep Creep. Let sit. No movement after a couple weeks. Cleaned out again. Tried Free All. Nope. Tried transmission fluid. Nope. Starter is off. Rocked tractor back and forth,in gear,every couple days. Fluid drains down around 1-2-& 4. Tried pry bar on flywheel, tractor out of gear, very, very little give .......now what? Sure didn't look that stuck??? Am I missing something? We did buy a spare cub motor last week, at this point I just want to see this one turn.
 
If it's stuck that hard, might as well go into it.

Even if you get it running good chance it will have ring problems and do more damage than is already done.
 
I have used a price of wood and made a plate to hold pressure down on piston. I did that on a deere 70 and got it broke loose.
 
I have heard this, but never tried it. Put oil or diesel or your choice flamable liquid and set it on fire. This may have to be a soaked rag or something to act as a wick. The plan is to keep it burning a few hours The continued heat is supposed to expand the metal and in return, allow it to loosen. Sounds good anyway.
 
My son uses a dilute solution of citric acid to soak rusty axe heads in over night.

I wonder what would happen if you put a little citric acid above pistons?
Think acid may remove some rust around rings??

If all else fails give it a try.
 
I have used brake fluid. I used air gun to blow out other fluids I had tried. Let is set of a couple of days and it turned over
 
Sounds like you have the head off. If you do fill the cylinders most of the way with ATF and then add a tablespoon of gas to each and light it up. When it burns out f you still have ATF in the cylinder add more gas and light it again. That heats up the block/sleeves so things tend to free up better. BTDT on a few of the touch ones
 
I am in the experimental mode with E-85. I would also try soaking it in E-85 just to see how good it works.
 
Can be done inside if the roof is metal and far enough away. On a cub it is a good idea to have a flat piece of metal to cover the block if things start getting out of control.
 
hey gramps, if you are not in a big hurry, put the tractor in 3 rd gear, jack the back end up and set it on a couple 2 x 10 ramps about 3 ft long and set em on a cinder block. then put the starting crank in, and if its in the right spot hang a 5 gallon bucket of rocks or iron to put a steady pull on it. you could also use a long pipe wrench and weight on the pto. keep your favorite penetrating oil on the pistons. if it is going to break loose, you will come out one day and the tractor will be at the bottom of the ramp. i did this not long ago on a super m. i did put pistons and sleeves in it, but it was way easier to take apart loose than locked up.
 
How about the valves? I bought a Cub 7-8 years ago that was stuck. it was really the valves and tappets that were stuck. I was able to get all the pistons out of the block (Intact, I think) but I broke the block around one of the tappets.
 
I'll vouch for E-85. I used it to unstick a John Deere B that was stuck for years. That stuff eats rust.
 
If you want it really stuck pour the acid in there. A friend of mine that is not mechanical was told to pour some draino or something like it down a 560D to get it loose he did and it didn't froze tighter than a winter day.
 

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