Live Hydraulic on tractor

GusM

New User
I've got an old M Farmall I'd like to put live Hydro on the loader. I've looked into most of the conventional
methods and without a lot of messing around, it's just not possible.

I'm sawing lumber for a barn and then have to try to get the barn up before winter.

I've already converted it to 12V for convenience sake and am wondering if anyone out there has tried using one
of those 12V electric-driven Hydro units w tank & all to run the loader on a tractor or other hydro equipment?

Thought maybe this might be a quick alternative to any other avenues I've seen guys take. I've copied a link to
an example of a pump that might work . . .maybe~

Thanks, Gus
Pump on ebay for example
 
Have seen M, W6, W9, maybe even a W4 with the pump that mounts on the mag/distributor drive. Looks like that would be a good option, but I don't know if one could be found. Just my thoughts.
 
I have a pump from an SM and it won't fit.

Bolt holes don't line up.
cvphoto102622.jpg
 
I've considered a different tractor but I kinda like the old M.
It's the perfect size for the woods and with the narrow front; it's
extremely maneuverable.

Not sure how many tractors are out there with live Hydro w/narrow front.
Maybe something in the JD lineup from the late 50's- early 60's.
620 or whatever it is.
 
You need a front engine cover from a 1951 or newer M, Super M, 400, or 450 to mount that pump.

If you've ever run a dump trailer with one of those 12V pumps, you'd know how slow they are. It takes over 2 minutes to lift my trailer, which doesn't seem like much until you're sitting there standing on a clutch pedal.
 
OK, Right! I did pick a bad example. The flow rate is extremely low on this unit.
What is the flow rate on a factory unit 10-12 gpm?
 
yeah, The more I look the more I realize there are no 12V pumps with sufficient gpm to run a loader without pulling your hair out.

Thanks,
Gus
 
What Barnyard said, plus you need to install a heavier
updated camshaft gear, the original will strip the teeth off
with the added load from the hydraulic pump. If you need to
get this barn up before winter and a tractor with live
hydraulic is going to make or break your schedule you
better just look for one already equipped that way. A lot of
tractors built in the early 60s had narrow fronts and live
hydraulics at least in the area I grew up in Kansas. I do not
know maybe since a lot of ..play tractor.. people shied
away from narrow fronts maybe a lot of them went to scrap.
 
I was thinking hand clutch before I even saw your reply. Not an option I'd ever want to try. Not going in thinking it was better than a tractor without live hydraulics. Only thing worse would be a hand clutch and no live hydraulics. I can still see Dad trying to use a loader on a B that he had. It would have gone faster with fewer acrobatics if he'd just pitched manure with a fork.
 
Lots of old riding mowers with 15=20 hp engines cheap. Connect a pump an a reservoir, electric start and there you have a live power unit mounted on the tractor. For limited use a few hr's here and there. May need a better muffler but it should be a fair alternative to spending all the time and money to mount a factory style pump. We had a neighbor that ran a pump off the crank pully with roller chain. Do not know how he mounted the sprocket. Do not remember the details but he used it that way for many years day in and out.
 
I've had old JD B's before. Yeah, no thanks. Don't care for the hand clutch either. Although my track loader has a hand clutch I've gotten used to.
 
one of the best units I have ever seen was a kit You could buy with Your new loader (name escapes Me ) It had a sprocket mounted on the crankshaft in front and the pump mounted on the outside of the frame -- one chain went under the frame and one over -- foolproof --need to be inventive about the res. and the valves -- would outlast the M or Yourself -- Just My thoughts from northwest Iowa = Roy
 
Get a M&W one like this for a gasoline M. They will bolt on both bolt patterns. Keep pressure relief set at 1,000 or a little below and timing gears have less trouble. Just removed a loader from a M using this type pump set a 980 PSI and would lift about anything tractor would handle with 4 sets of rear wheel weights. Figured I would deal with it if gears failed but used it for years. Also a pump was made to bolt on the sae ignition drive flange but needs to accept a ignition unit mounted different than standard.
cvphoto102688.jpg
 
Look at some of the industrial models live hydraulics and steering reasonably maneuverable. Or just ad a tractor to the shed. Never have to many.
 
If you include the price of your labor along with the cost of parts, in the long run it might be cheaper to trade tractors for something more modern. A Farmall 400, 450 460, or 560 with live hydraulic, power steering and live PTO are not expensive. Case 400, 700, 800, 730 and 830 are low cost too.
 

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