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Pump Gear Oil From Farmall H

D

DelMN

Member
I would like to know if anyone here has pumped the gearcase oil from these older tractors. If so, what pump did you use, there are many out there and I
want one that will handle the job. Please don't reply with Why don't you just use the drain plug. It is a long story and I can't use the drain plug.
Thanks in advance!
 
I haven't any experience pumping one out, but had the cover off of some,but there is a quite a bit that settles in the front, under the trans gears, that you could get to with a hose, from the fill hole, but not sure how you would get the suction hose between the bull gears, where it also has a low spot!
 
I ve had the displeasure of draining three Farmalls C
that oil is so thick you might get three gallons out after a day .
I recommend dont get in a hurry , take plug out the bottom and use a oil change floor pam ,drain it into a five gallon bucke t.
This will take a day .wire brush run a rod up a the hole to move the plugged up sludge.
Buy a long wire 1 inch bottle bushe and swing around the inside of case with brush to loosen sludge .
Buy five gallon of kerosene to put in and drive it around to loosen up the sludge .Drain it out
Best estimate is three to four days to get it out.
Much faster if you take the cover off the differential cover .
You choice
Good luck
I recommend a magnet rod to drag around the bottom to see if there are any chipped gear teeth ,wire or other foreign objects in there
 
Not a Farmall H, but I drained and flushed my JD D by adding kerosene so that it could be pumped. then pumped and sprayed around for three weeks. Kept moving the return line until it finally washed everything clean. New 90W and it's been working fine for 30 years. I used a coolant pump from my lathe.
 
Just a thought. Can you use a large catch pan (cut off section of plastic barrel) and pull the power take off to work pumping or bailing out housing? If I remember right this is a 4 or 5 inch opening.
 
You could use a drill powered fluid pump after removing the pto shaft. You will get most of it. This one is from Harbor Freight. Are both drain plugs messed up or just the rear one ?

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If you have to suck it out, how about filling it up with diesel fuel, and drive it around for a few minutes. Make it a whole lot easier to pump.
 
Several years ago My brother and dad pulled the lid off Dad's H. The crap that was on the oil troughs for the rear end gears along the sides was full to running over with crud. So I believe unless the lid id pulled and you can wash the entire casting out it is like peeing against the wind. Just going to waste your time trying to clean one by splashing around with brushes through the drains and PTO holes. Only way is to either drain by drilling out the plug and remove lid or maybe refill with Hytran weight oil and run it around for a year then drain again till it comes out clean. This of course will have every seal in the 75 plus year old transmission leaking like a sieve till they are fixed or oil changed to regular old gear oil. Dad said they scraped out the crud in the troughs.
 
When I drained the gear oil out of my newly-acquired M, there was no pump in heaven or on earth that would have moved that goo. In fact I ruined a barrel pump trying to transfer it from the drain pan into a storage container.

Frankly there is no story long enough to explain why you can't use the plug. Where there is a will there is a way.

However if you insist, pull the PTO and work through there.
 
Same here. Actually I pull the drain on my H at least once in the summer after it sets for a day to let the water out, otherwise on some winter day you will not be going any where. It is surprising how much water condenses in there.
 
After thinking about it. The housing is only cast iron. You could find another spot on the bottom of the casting and drill and tap a drain hole. If your problem is just a damaged drain plug. Just drill a fairly large hole in the plug get a large easy out. Heat the plug with a torch, let cool, repeat. Then it will likely screw out.
 


2X what miangus posted, you need to get the water out. There have been many posts here about problems with drain plugs on many different tractors
 
If you were to use a pump, I'd think you'd have trouble getting a pipe or hose snaked to the bottom going through the fill hole. If not, and per say you did get something to the bottom, I'd think you'd for sure have problems getting the oil (likely way thicker in consistency than 80/90) to suck through the hose and get the pump primed
Most of them that I have drained, the oil was very thick. I think alot of people used thicker than recommended to reduce seal leakage, and to slow the gears down faster while shifting.
If P.T.O. assembly can simply be pulled out of its hole, and put back in with no other further disassembly to put it back in (I've never had one out), draining and cleaning the rest of oil out through that hole would probably be the best way. Note that this will likely be alot more messier and you'll likely want to put 2 or 3 gallons of diesel or something in and operate it a bit prior, to thin the oil. And also, there is a second drain plug higher up, and further forward to drain fluid in an area that traps fluid at a higher location. That fluid will remain there, if you likewise can't get that drain plug out.
 
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