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Massey Ferguson sat 2 years now wont start

T

tonyof757

Member
I have a Massey Ferguson workbull 303 industrial i believe. It sat for 2 years now won't run. I have let it sit for 1 year and it fired right up, but now after 2 years it just turns over but won't start. I have so far changed the gas filter and flushed the old gas out that was an amber color. Tommorrow I will see if it will get a spark. I had almost a gallon too much oil in it. It smoked last time it ran thats probably why so I drained the excess oil. Here are some pics any information on things I can try to do would be appreciated. Usually when I pick with things I don't know much about I create other problems and parts are hard to come by so i would rather ask the just start doing stuff. Thanks
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This post was edited by tonyof757 on 03/15/2022 at 03:28 pm.
 
Im not sure if the pics of the sediment bowl are before or after
you did the flush. If after its really nasty. Besides like old
said about the points you may want to take a look at the carb.
If the gas in the sediment bowl looks like that I can only
imagine whats in the carb.
 
I'd also throw that in-line fuel filter as far from the tractor as you can. Most are made for fuel systems with a pump and that tends to cause problems on a tractor
 
(quoted from post at 15:30:53 03/15/22) Most likely problem is the points need to be cleaned. Point tend to corroded when not used for a long time
Click to expand...

what are points and how do you clean them. on a car i have a slight understanding on a tractor not really
 
gas is flowing though fuel filter and it helps to keep trash out what is the upside of taking it out ? just wondering thanks

This post was edited by tonyof757 on 03/15/2022 at 06:40 pm.
 

i did flush but i didnt take the glass of the sediment bowl off because i couldnt get it off does it screw on and what if it leaks after i take it off ? if it breaks i cant get another
 
Sounds like it is time to get a manual. Point sit under the distributor cap and they are what make the spark to the plug work. As for the sediment bowl it does come off and in the top of the assembly should be a filter screen which is all you need in the system t keep junk out of the carb
 

after i pull the sparkplug wire off and look for spark i will look at the points thanks

the points dont need to be set or boothered with just clean the rotor needle and contacts right ?
 
The point are very likely to need to be cleaned. Most auto parts store carry a points file just for that job. You have to pull the cap off and then the rotor and make sure it doesn't have a rotor clip and if it does you have to carefully take the clip off then the dust cover to get to the points
 
On the bail of the sediment bowl there is a thumb screw. You loosen the thumb screw and then swing the bail to the side and the bowl will pull off. Some times they stick a bit and sometime you have to replace the gasket. that sits on top pf the sediment bowl.
 
(quoted from post at 19:12:40 03/15/22) On the bail of the sediment bowl there is a thumb screw. You loosen the thumb screw and then swing the bail to the side and the bowl will pull off. Some times they stick a bit and sometime you have to replace the gasket. that sits on top pf the sediment bowl.
Click to expand...
Mine was stick if I remove it . It may leak. I gave no gasket. I know it's dirty but the trash is at the bottom , clean gas is flowing to the carb. What are some other options I can do if it's not getting gas through the jests in the carb. Their is gas flowing from the screw at the bottom but that doesn't guarantee it's flowing good to the combustion chamber. That carburetor is weird and the gas fumes seem to flow upward like a chimney. To be honest I really don't understand this.
 
Here is a video of someone cleaning points. What you
should see behind your distributor cap should be
similar. They never exactly point out that the contacts
of the points are the round parts on the right of the
arm he moves with his screwdriver. Old has suggested
using a point file which is ideal but the sandpaper will
work. If you use sandpaper it will be important to take
a piece of a business card or cereal box to pull
between them after the sandpaper to make sure there
is no grit between them. Also if the gap when the
points are at the position they open the farthest is
about the thickness of a dime they are probably set
close enough. Also another thing to clarify, old is
talking about a ..rotor clip.. that is a thin metal springy
device that may be on the end of the distributor shaft
or inside the rotor where it mounts on the shaft to help
the rotor to mount tightly. He is just making sure you
are aware of it and not to lose it. As he has suggested
it may need to come off to allow the dust cap under
the distributor cap to be removed to access the points.
Point cleaning video
 
I am curious about the engine oil being overfull, what is the source of the excess fluid? Is there engine coolant in
the oil, is it diluted with gasoline, or maybe it is hydraulic fluid? It would be good to understand why it is
overfull before you start the engine, if it is coolant or gasoline you should probably change the oil and filter
before you start the engine.
 
I have to ask the obvious how much gas is in the tank? Then does it flow fast enough to fill a pint jar quickly like a few seconds? What do the points look like? Do you have spark to jump a half inch or so with a bright blue spark? If you had the wire off did you have them all off at once or one at a time? If all at once did you check to make sure they are on in firing order or just put them on? Then does it spin over at a good speed. If slow might be dragging the battery down enough it will not have enough juice for the spark. When done with this list let us know the verdict.
 


Do a little trouble shooting. Don't repair before establishing need for a repair. Check for spark at a spark plug. If you have spark at a plug, there is no need to dig into the distributor. When you first take a spark plug out to check for spark, remove it after trying to start for twenty seconds. The plug should be wet with gasoline, if it is, no need to dig into the filtration. IF THE FILTER BOWL IS STUCK YOU COULD BREAK IT!!! DO NOT REMOVE BOWL WITHOUT A NEW GASKET IN HAND.
 
Is it me or is this a Massey HARRIS Workbull or a Massey Harris Ferguson, I don't know? It doesn't look like any of the MF Industrials that I've seen before. By the way, you have a neat loader tractor! On the last pic you posted there -appears- to be a bypass resistor in place, right side, mid way on the pic. IF that is dead or burnt out you won't be getting a spark. I wouldn't worry about that filter, YET. If you get a spark and get it running then it would be the first thing I would consider tossing as Old said. This site sells parts and has a fuel bowl gasket and new screen for $3.70 but its listed under the MF list so I don't know if it's one that would fit yours? A quick phone call to the Parts dept would confirm it. Good Luck with it!
 
(quoted from post at 00:40:30 03/16/22) I am curious about the engine oil being overfull, what is the source of the excess fluid? Is there engine coolant in
the oil, is it diluted with gasoline, or maybe it is hydraulic fluid? It would be good to understand why it is
overfull before you start the engine, if it is coolant or gasoline you should probably change the oil and filter
before you start the engine.
Click to expand...
RCP: oh that just got overfull because I put oil in it before engine had a chance to settle. Theres no oil and water mix. Oil needs to be changed but thats about it.. And water looks ok Thanks
 
this looks like my tractor see link

https://www.tractorhd.mobi/massey-ferguson-work-bull-303-industrial-tractor.html
 
Tap the Link below and it comes up. The toll free number is on the same page.
Some coils are designed to be used on a 12 volt tractor system with the resistor or 6 volt system without the resistor. Since you have one I would check it out for being burnt out(open circuit) or a bad wire or connection. If it ran okay before it -should- be good but you never know.
Link
 
(quoted from post at 17:11:38 03/16/22) Sitting for two years. The points need cleaned or replaced.
Click to expand...
@ Tractor guy and MF#2 I went out today and tested each spark plug. i cracked the motor with each individual plug pulled out one at a time and I saw no spark at all for any of them.
 
MF#1 Thanks for the link to the sediment bowl and gasket can you send me a link to the resistor so i can see what it looks like ? Thanks
 

Mf#1 this looks like my resistor. but if the resistor is bad it wouldn't even turn over would it ?

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/8NE10306_Resistor_17145.htm
 
(quoted from post at 15:17:19 03/18/22)
(quoted from post at 17:11:38 03/16/22) Sitting for two years. The points need cleaned or replaced.
Click to expand...
@ Tractor guy and MF#2 I went out today and tested each spark plug. i cracked the motor with each individual plug pulled out one at a time and I saw no spark at all for any of them.
Click to expand...


Are the plugs wet with gas after cranking??? In other words is it getting gas into the cylinders?
 
(quoted from post at 06:38:16 03/19/22)
(quoted from post at 15:17:19 03/18/22)
(quoted from post at 17:11:38 03/16/22) Sitting for two years. The points need cleaned or replaced.
Click to expand...
@ Tractor guy and MF#2 I went out today and tested each spark plug. i cracked the motor with each individual plug pulled out one at a time and I saw no spark at all for any of them.
Click to expand...
Good question I had took one plug out at a time and turned it over . The other 3 spark plugs were obviously used looking dark but there was no gas on any of them when i turned over motor I started to smell a little gas though I think . Hence I only bumped it over for about 3 seconds to conserve battery strength. The way the carburetor looks as if the combustion is forced upward from the carburetor through a 3 barrel looking metal pipe and into the block for combustion. I never really understood how this engine worked I was going to clean the points today and get that out of the way I was hoping this was not a gas problem but from what you said it could ery well could be gas problem and spark problem:(


Are the plugs wet with gas after cranking??? In other words is it getting gas into the cylinders?
Click to expand...
 
(quoted from post at 08:50:00 03/19/22)
(quoted from post at 06:38:16 03/19/22)
(quoted from post at 15:17:19 03/18/22)
(quoted from post at 17:11:38 03/16/22) Sitting for two years. The points need cleaned or replaced.
Click to expand...
@ Tractor guy and MF#2 I went out today and tested each spark plug. i cracked the motor with each individual plug pulled out one at a time and I saw no spark at all for any of them.
Click to expand...
Good question I had took one plug out at a time and turned it over . The other 3 spark plugs were obviously used looking dark but there was no gas on any of them when i turned over motor I started to smell a little gas though I think . Hence I only bumped it over for about 3 seconds to conserve battery strength. The way the carburetor looks as if the combustion is forced upward from the carburetor through a 3 barrel looking metal pipe and into the block for combustion. I never really understood how this engine worked I was going to clean the points today and get that out of the way I was hoping this was not a gas problem but from what you said it could ery well could be gas problem and spark problem:(


Are the plugs wet with gas after cranking??? In other words is it getting gas into the cylinders?
Click to expand...
/quote]


Tony, it looks like you are starting to get the idea. Here is what I suggested that you do to test for gasoline to the cylinders: remove it after trying to start for twenty seconds. The plug should be wet with gasoline. Did you do this? What is turning over? Do you mean cranking? To a lot of people turning over means starting and running.
Click to expand...
 
(quoted from post at 10:02:04 03/19/22)
(quoted from post at 08:50:00 03/19/22)
(quoted from post at 06:38:16 03/19/22)
(quoted from post at 15:17:19 03/18/22)
(quoted from post at 17:11:38 03/16/22) Sitting for two years. The points need cleaned or replaced.
Click to expand...
@ Tractor guy and MF#2 I went out today and tested each spark plug. i cracked the motor with each individual plug pulled out one at a time and I saw no spark at all for any of them.
Click to expand...
Good question I had took one plug out at a time and turned it over . The other 3 spark plugs were obviously used looking dark but there was no gas on any of them when i turned over motor I started to smell a little gas though I think . Hence I only bumped it over for about 3 seconds to conserve battery strength. The way the carburetor looks as if the combustion is forced upward from the carburetor through a 3 barrel looking metal pipe and into the block for combustion. I never really understood how this engine worked I was going to clean the points today and get that out of the way I was hoping this was not a gas problem but from what you said it could ery well could be gas problem and spark problem:(


Are the plugs wet with gas after cranking??? In other words is it getting gas into the cylinders?
Click to expand...
/quote]


Tony, it looks like you are starting to get the idea. Here is what I suggested that you do to test for gasoline to the cylinders: remove it after trying to start for twenty seconds. The plug should be wet with gasoline. Did you do this? What is turning over? Do you mean cranking? To a lot of people turning over means starting and running.
Click to expand...
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mvphoto89552.jpg


mvphoto89553.jpg


mvphoto89554.jpg
Click to expand...
 

Tested continuity of that fuseable link and its good. Cleaned points still no start. Have no checks for spark yet because I need 2 people will do it later. Seems to be getting gas because when i take screw out of bottom of carb gas pours out and some is leaking through seal see pic. I don't think i'm getting gas or spark. Sits 1 years its all good , sits 2 years it wont do anything :(
 
(quoted from post at 11:47:53 03/19/22)
Tested continuity of that fuseable link and its good. Cleaned points still no start. Have no checks for spark yet because I need 2 people will do it later. Seems to be getting gas because when i take screw out of bottom of carb gas pours out and some is leaking through seal see pic. I don't think i'm getting gas or spark. Sits 1 years its all good , sits 2 years it wont do anything :(
Click to expand...


Doing proper checks would still be helpful. Gas in the carburetor is good, getting it into the cylinders though is much better! What does your helper do when you are checking for spark?
 
Why do you need 2 people to check for spark?? I do that test all the time and I am by my self 99.9999% of the time. One simple test you can do and all you need is you and a piece of wire. Run a wire from the ignition side of the battery as in non ground side and then touch the ignition side of the coil. Not the distributor side. When you touch and then remove the wire you should see a small spark if the points are close and good and clean. Then turn the engine so the points are open and try tht again. This time you shouldn't get a spark. If you do get a spark when the points are open you have a short in the distributor. Do this test with the ignition OFF
 
(quoted from post at 17:03:48 03/19/22) Why do you need 2 people to check for spark?? I do that test all the time and I am by my self 99.9999% of the time. One simple test you can do and all you need is you and a piece of wire. Run a wire from the ignition side of the battery as in non ground side and then touch the ignition side of the coil. Not the distributor side. When you touch and then remove the wire you should see a small spark if the points are close and good and clean. Then turn the engine so the points are open and try tht again. This time you shouldn't get a spark. If you do get a spark when the points are open you have a short in the distributor. Do this test with the ignition OFF
Click to expand...
I test spark plug by taking the spark plug wire off the spark plug ,then take the spark plug out, then re attach the spark plug wire, and have someone crank it while i watch to see if it sparks.
 
(quoted from post at 19:47:53 03/19/22)
Tested continuity of that fuseable link and its good. Cleaned points still no start. Have no checks for spark yet because I need 2 people will do it later. Seems to be getting gas because when i take screw out of bottom of carb gas pours out and some is leaking through seal see pic. I don't think i'm getting gas or spark. Sits 1 years its all good , sits 2 years it wont do anything :(
Click to expand...
ith a test light, test for voltage on the coil at the wire from the key in the run position, it should be a steady light, then test the other side of the coil while cranking, it should flash if the points are functioning correctly.
 
I use a spark plug that I have gaped to a 1/4 inch and hook it to the center wire of the cap first and then the plug wires and I lay the plug on the side of the engine and spin it out with my other hand. Pretty much doesn't matter what tractor I am working on
 
This may be a waist of money since I can see if a spark occurs with the plug out what do you guys think https://www.harborfreight.com/in-line-spark-checker-63590.html
 
(quoted from post at 14:46:13 03/20/22) This may be a waist of money since I can see if a spark occurs with the plug out what do you guys think https://www.harborfreight.com/in-line-spark-checker-63590.html
Click to expand...
es that is a very handy tool to have, real time saver, you can test for spark with out removing the plug and hoping you have it grounded. It wont tell you the strength of the spark.
On another note pick up a test light while you are their. https://www.harborfreight.com/6-12-volt-circuit-tester-4288.html
Check the test light by placing it on your battery, if it lights it good, i do this each time i use it. Then you can test for current in any circuit, just clamp the alligator clip on the post of the coil as suggested above and touch the pointed end to any part of the engine or bolt, if it lights up, it verify s current to that location.
The spark plug wires in your pictures appear to be carbon core, they are not real good for use on older low power coil systems. I would recommend getting a solid wire, plug wire..

This post was edited by Jo Bird on 03/20/2022 at 07:58 am.
 
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