12 Volt Conversion Question

Once I get the generator off and alternator on Super C which I have done, can I strip out ALL of the
old wiring and just follow the instructions that came with my kit? I wont need lights.
I have plenty of 12 ga and smaller wire.

Yes

You will want a 10 or bigger wire for the battery terminal on the alternator though. Especially if it is a bigger amp alternator.

Also if using an ammeter the wire from the alternator large terminal will go to one side of it and should be 10 ga or heavier as Catguy suggested. The opposite side of the ammeter will have a system feed wire going to the positive of the battery usually to the starter. That needs to be 10 ga or heavier as well to carry the charge amps back to the battery. See the generic diagram I attached, it is color coded by wire size.
Generic 6 to 12 volt diagram

Someone had converted my 1950 Farmall C to 12v before I bought it.

I couldn't find anyone who makes a 12v starter.
After I had to replace the starter drive 2x, I decided to use my oldest lawn mower battery and replace my battery cables with 10 g wire.
I haven't had to replace the starter drive.
I have a mag, so getting a hot spark isn't a problem. I don't use my Farmall in the winter, so I get by using my wimpest mower battery, works fine. No more replacing the starter drive.

As our late, great sparkie-meister Dell used to say,...if it won't run on 6V, what makes you think it will on 12V?... There's nothing wrong with 12V, nothing wrong with 6V either, just be sure you know how to wire each correctly. FACT: 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring and many 12V conversions are done wrong. On our FORD's many use the road worthy DELCO 10SI 1-WIRE ALT. YOU DO NOT NEED A 12-V Starter Motor. that is a fallacy. Starters don't care if 6V or 12V. On a 12V conversion the Generator and Voltage Regulator (or CUTOUT) are removed from the circuit altogether. The ALT is then installed and OEM wiring can be modified or invest in a new harness for 12V. With either a GEN or ALT, you MUST use a belt tensioner bracket otherwise you will never charge the battery. Original GENs like on FORDS come with a belt tensioner. An ALT will need a special one, the OEM GEN won't work. Be aware all 12V kits do not include the belt tensioner. You may have to get a new pulley and fan belt, size matters - either 1/2 or 5/8, ya gotta know which ones. If proper fan belt tension is not maintained, you will never charge the battery, can damage the water pump, power steering unit if you have one, and cause overheating and damage the radiator. If you keep your original 6V Coil, you will need to add an in-line, external 1-OHM resistor or equiv in the coil circuit. Delete the extra resistor (my choice) by swapping out the 6V Coil to a verified 12V Coil. You do not need a fancy 40kw 'Flamethrower' Coil. How much do you think the charging circuit requires? Finally, you will need to swap out your lamps. Industry Standard part numbers for the Sealed Beam Headlights are: 6V = #4019 and 12V = #4419. FORD Taillights use the bayonet-style bulbs: 6V = #63, and 12 volt = #67, '39 - '64. With a 12V conversion, if you leave your 6V headlamps in, the second you power up you will smoke them. I can't say how other makes were wired but probably same or very similar.

6V & 12V CONVERSION EXAMPLES:




FORD 9N/2N; FORD 8N, FRONT MOUNT & SIDE MOUNT; 6-VOLT:




12V =



FORD NAA, 600, 800 6V & 12-V:


Tim Daley (MI)

Well lets see, why would anyone want to convert to 12V?

6V doesn't crank the bigger tractors like M's over no matter how much scrubbing you do on the connectors, or if the cables are as big around as a baby's arm.

6V batteries don't last.

6V generator/regulator setups are a constant maintenance hassle.

Jumping 6V off a 12V battery, while doable, does entail some risk of battery explosion.

Everything else is 12V.

Replacing 2 junk regulators is about the same cost as a 12V battery and an alternator from the parts store, and a dam site cheaper than replacing the generator.

Never had a problem with a 6V starter on a 12V conversion. They work BETTER and last LONGER because they positively engage the ring gear instead of half-clicking in and wearing on the corners.

I just don't see the need to suffer. I grew up Catholic, on a small family dairy farm. The double-whammy of self-imposed suffering. Unlike many, I never learned to like it.

(quoted from post at 12:39:19 06/27/23) and replace my battery cables with 10 g wire.
.

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I think your battery "cables" are more than 10 ga.!

(quoted from post at 07:31:31 06/27/23)

(quoted from post at 12:39:19 06/27/23) and replace my battery cables with 10 g wire.
.

Click to expand...

I think your battery "cables" are more than 10 ga.!

Click to expand...

Nope. That's 10ga UF Romex in the picture.

*As our late, great sparkie-meister Dell used to say,...if it won't run on 6V, what makes you think it will on 12V?*

was it your willingness to jam this comment (among other condescending stuff) down people's throats that cost you your admin position on the other board?

converting to 12 volts turned my nearly impossible to start N into a tractor that starts right up.

That diagram shows just one ground symbol at NEG of battery, but there needs to be several more shown. Grounds (which are really chassis points) need to be at the starter, alternator, distributor and headlights and taillight(s). All of these chassis points must make good electrical contact with no rust or paint interference.

The above may be obvious and no offense meant, but I like to be electrically correct.

(quoted from post at 09:17:02 06/27/23) As our late, great sparkie-meister Dell used to say,...)

Click to expand...

While Dell liked to post quite often, that didn't make him always right.
6 volts works until you have to buy a battery, a voltage regulator that actually works or repair the generator.

Some of us have moved on from candles, coal oil lamps and model Ts.

Ron, I appreciate the pointer. If the wiring of this machine had a much greater possibility of risking life and limb say like an airplane, I would probably not post a wiring diagram with unclear circuit connections. As you say it is probably safe to say the connections to ground are ..understood.. Looking at Tim PMDs post I feel maybe he might need a few tips about posting info about the right tractor. However, I understand how his diagrams for Fords may be interpreted to apply to a Farmall, I would have to say for the average guy they are not real helpful. And if you think my diagram was a set up for free electrons our friend JMOR has way more of that going on. I will again say just relying that the connections to ground are understood is probably good enough. Even as hyped up a those little Fords are, none of them were intended to take flight.

'Even as hyped up a those little Fords are, none of them were intended to take flight.'

it may not have been intended, but after trying to lift my brush hog with my N, i know they can go airborne