How's this sound?

jd2cyl1943

Member
Location
Bemidji, MN
So I spent a considerable amount of time researching and have come up with this for a plan.

1:Clean up all the rust, grease and old paint.

2:Spray John Deere brand buff primer sealer over everything.

3:Go ever everything with a high build filler primer to level out the imperfections.

4:Spray John Deere brand enamel over everything.

And for the sheet metal, spray with Buff primer/ sealer, go over with Bondo, spray a high build primer, sand it down smooth, spray with JD brand enamel, and clear coat.


What do you think?
 
After your step #1 you need to wipe it down with lacquer thinner. this will remove substantially more greasy dirt.
Filler primer is going to make the cast surfaces look wrong. They need to show the casting texture. If the JD enamel is compatible with hardener (sprayed from a gun, not Rattle can) use it. Make sure of your ventilation as hardener is very nasty.
Your sheet metal plan seems OK use hardener. Jim
 
I don't think you can put Bondo over paint. I've been working on one and a guy who owns a body shop told me I'd
have to have it sand blasted, then apply Bondo, even though I had cleaned up the whole thing with a wire wheel on an angle grinder.
 
no , the primer is absolutly the last thing you do before painting , but there is more to it than that. u are totally missing the primer
putty and hrs of sanding as i said before. if needed bondo goes first on bare metal.at least that the way i did it in high schools when i
painted my 1964 olds super88. school project in grade 10. i also painted my 1964 ford galaxie 500 XL in school, as a shop project. that was
was back in 1973 and 1974. still have the oldsmobile also.its not just one coat as you are making it out to be ,... its many times over and
sand and sand till you have a glass smoothness feeling .
 
Bondo is only for imperfections on bare
metal up to 1/4 deep. After primer is used
small imperfections can be filled with
primer puddy which is just thick primer the
consistency of tooth paste. The puddy can
be found at auto parts stores and farm
stores.
 
and i found a recent pic.
cvphoto158281.jpg
 
I'm with Jim, use hardener. Bondo and
tractor vibrations don't do well together.
The only place I've seen it hold up long
term is for show tractors that don't get
run much.
 

Just remember--it's a TRACTOR-not a Rolls-Royce! Automotive paint jobs are fine if you're into that, but it's also possible to over-restore something. I've seen some so "perfect" that you're almost afraid to get on them and use them. And what's the fun in that?
 
its if your doing a job take pride in it. pretty sure this wont be any showroom paint job , as he is asking for info. paint is not cheap, so
make the best of the job. and just remember tractor, implement or what ever the result should be the same, the best u can do.
 
A few imperfections are character don't worry about them. They can be stories about this or that that happened over the years like the time the bull ran into for some reason or other. as for the paint I'm not one to say how. I just slap paint on things when I make them if they get painted.
 
Using a hardener is a good idea,we always used bondo on bare metal but I see it used now on primer now.The JD primer and paint ( 1 gallon each) plus thinner will be in the $200.00 range, the hardener is about
$35.00 if I remember right. Clear coat can be anywhere from $150 to $1000 per gallon depending on the quality. With a hardener I tend to skip the clear coat on enamels.
 
You don't have to prime everything, just bondo or places where bare metal is showing. The new paint will adhere to the old paint, all you have to do is scuff sand it which you should do even for primer. The most important part of painting a tractor is to clean the grease off. Put most of your efforts there.
 
I would have to go along withJanicholson on not using fill primer on casting. I only use fill primer on tin and rims. I dont think fill primers are as strong
as other primers. They might have a tendency to chip. When it comes to painting ,preparation is everything. Make sure you dont have any oil or
grease or wax for that matter on your old paint.
 
There used to be a guy on here called "SmoothDeere" or something like that and he would go nuts on his paint jobs. He would literally bondo everything to make it look smooth. I mean every piece whether it was cast or iron. Tractors looked cool, but waaaay too much work in my opinion especially since he was still using a few of them for work. Last picture I remember seeing one of them broke along the frame rail while he was using it and you could see the cracks in the paint job. Don't know whatever happened to him as its been years since I've seen any of his posts.
 
Depends what you are painting I suppose? I would hope something made by JD.

Not sure I would bon do everything like that, doesnt really appeal to me. Maybe on a puller tractor or something that
isnt a real tractor.

Paul
 
Just a tip, filler primer does not magically fill the pits
in a couple passes. It dries fast so you can sand it
back off and see the pits. How many times you
have to sand and re-coat depends entirely on the
severity of the corrosion. Also, dont think you have
to stay married to John Deere finishing products.
Get prices on Omni or PPG from a auto parts store.
The stuff aint cheap but you get the best color
retention when you spend money for good paint. A
B doesnt require a lot of paint so you can afford to
go the extra mile.
 
Only use high build primer on the sheet
metal, the extra material thickness on cast
parts will cause it to be brittle chip &
peal easily. Casted parts are sapost to be
rough looking. High build is ment to be
sanded to smooth minor imperfections.
 

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