4010 JD bogging after rebuilt Injector pump installed

As the subject states, I recently installed a rebuilt injector pump on my 4010 JD and it's running, but lacks significant power.

What I've done so far, previously I was having a reoccurring issue where the tractor would run for 20 mins and then die, I could prime the low pressure pump and it would run again for 20 mins and then die again. (Note, when it was running, it was running strong) With help from this forum, I was told the drive ring was deteriorating and needed to be rebuilt.

So I sent my pump to a shop in NE for rebuild. I installed it at TDC with the timing marks lined up and the oil pump arrow pointing towards the block. I bled the injectors and it started right up. But when revving the engine, it coughs and sputters like it has half the power it used to have. I've tried clocking the injector pump both directions and it's basically acting the same, low power and smoking more than it used to prior to the rebuild.

Any ideas on what I need to do to get it running right?

You times it at tdc. Think its time about 13 deg. Before.

CLEAN the RETURN line across the injector tops. Broken pump flex ring bits will plug that line and cause injection pump trouble. This can be confirmed by running until engine begins to fail, then quickly loose the pump timing cover. If engine speeds up/runs OK WITH the fuel leak but slows/dies with cover tight, it's confirmed the RETURN side is restricted/plugged. Also, the EARLY 4AF/5AF pumps are timed at 10 degrees BTDC. The LATE UPDATED 1AJ pumps are timed at 8 degrees BTDC. The original 3010 and 4010 pumps had no speed advance like the 20 series had, but lots were updated years ago.

Timing correction, the EARLY 3010 is 10 degrees, the 4010 4AF/11AF pumps 14 degrees.

I had a power issue shortly after installing a different engine, with new filters, in my combine. Turned out to be a restriction in the line coming from the tank.

Not much chance that lightening will strike twice in the same place, but somebody on the Oliver forum had the same issue with an 1850. What it was was, when he hooked up the stop cable, he didn't have the lever on the injector pump down far enough. When he pushed the knob in, the lever wasn't going all the way down. He loosened the screw, pushed it down, re tightened it and that fixed it.

rrlund post has a good chance of what the issue is..I have seen this many times.

Guys, update on my issue is that I had the pump looked at again and didn't find an issue with it. The return line is free from obstructions and the stop cable is not an issue.

I think my issue is timing is off. I tried to set at 14 before TDC but I can't clock the pump that far without hitting the block. (I can only get to 4 degrees before, I need to turn clockwise to get to 14) I tried the other holes in the flange but I can't get there either. Is there an adjustment on the pump that would move the timing window mark so I can adjust to 14 degrees? If not, my only other option I can think of is drilling more holes in the flange, which I'm not opposed to, but didn't want to if I didn't need to.

mdeisenhauer said:

As the subject states, I recently installed a rebuilt injector pump on my 4010 JD and it's running, but lacks significant power.

What I've done so far, previously I was having a reoccurring issue where the tractor would run for 20 mins and then die, I could prime the low pressure pump and it would run again for 20 mins and then die again. (Note, when it was running, it was running strong) With help from this forum, I was told the drive ring was deteriorating and needed to be rebuilt.

So I sent my pump to a shop in NE for rebuild. I installed it at TDC with the timing marks lined up and the oil pump arrow pointing towards the block. I bled the injectors and it started right up. But when revving the engine, it coughs and sputters like it has half the power it used to have. I've tried clocking the injector pump both directions and it's basically acting the same, low power and smoking more than it used to prior to the rebuild.

Any ideas on what I need to do to get it running right?

Click to expand...

IF you got your original I.P. that was "running strong" back when you sent it for "rebuilding", and you've put it back on, timed as it was previously, the timing HASN'T changed, something else is going on making it not run correctly now, mucking with the timing ISN'T going to correct the issue.

Have you tried running it with the timing window loose (relieving internal pressure)? (A restricted return line can cause high internal pressure.)

If that doesn't help, either the fuel supply is restricted or something is wrong with the I.P. itself.

It isn't common, but it wouldn't be the first time a pump came back from a professional shop with something amiss.

Or, did you SWAP I.P,'s and get someone else's problem?

When I removed the IP the first time, prior to rebuild, I could not see the timing mark prior to removal. I took a long time looking for it, but it was invisible to me. That being said, I'm not exactly sure where the timing was when it was removed. The guy who rebuilt the IP said he was only able to find it by shining a light at an angle.

There was a clear mark that somebody punched on the flywheel that appeared to be a targeted timing mark. But this mark is approximately 4 degrees after TDC (retarded).

As for the fuel supply, I removed the tank and valve on the bottom this weekend and ran new 5/16 tubing to the lift pump and to the filters. I also ensured the return line was clear. I tried opening the timing window while running and there was pressure but not significant, just flowed out.

Last thing I did was fool with the timing again. Since I've tried everything else, I tried to set it at that punched mark mentioned above and it ran horribly and was rolling smoke. I turned it clockwise as far as I could which ended up being closer to 3 degrees before TDC (advanced) and it ran better.

I believe I was letting some air in previously because it would die after 30 mins and I'd have to pump the lift pump to fill the filters and get her running again. Now that is not happening, I did a couple hours of shredding without issue. It's running best it has since the IP rebuild, but it's still running sluggish. Having fooled with multiple timing positions this weekend, the more I rotate it clockwise, the better it ran. It really feels like if I was able to get it more advanced then I'd be set but I'm against the block and can't move it further.

mdeisenhauer said:

As the subject states, I recently installed a rebuilt injector pump on my 4010 JD and it's running, but lacks significant power.

What I've done so far, previously I was having a reoccurring issue where the tractor would run for 20 mins and then die, I could prime the low pressure pump and it would run again for 20 mins and then die again. (Note, when it was running, it was running strong) With help from this forum, I was told the drive ring was deteriorating and needed to be rebuilt.

So I sent my pump to a shop in NE for rebuild. I installed it at TDC with the timing marks lined up and the oil pump arrow pointing towards the block. I bled the injectors and it started right up. But when revving the engine, it coughs and sputters like it has half the power it used to have. I've tried clocking the injector pump both directions and it's basically acting the same, low power and smoking more than it used to prior to the rebuild.

Any ideas on what I need to do to get it running right?

Click to expand...

The 4010 when built did not have injection advance, they were set at 14 degrees BTDC, 4010's with injection advance (like what is pictured) and 4020's are to be timed a 0 degrees. Your problem isn't caused by timing but is caused by a plugged return. If it is bogging down, loosen the timing window the engine should pick back up, if it doesn't you have a restricted supply to the injection pump. I, recently, had the shut off valve at the fuel tank plug with snot from algae in the fuel.