torque wrench

craftsman · May 30, 2008

I need a click type torque wrench does anyone have any suggestions on wich one to buy (I cant afford snap on, or mac) Would a $17 wrench from menards be a good one? thanks ----craftsman

Dan-IA · May 30, 2008

Depends what you want it for. I bought one of those, it only goes to 115 ft-lbs. That's just barely enough to tighten the head bolts on my 560. I need over 300 ft-lbs to tighten the hub bolts on my 4-150.

steamnjn23 · May 30, 2008

i've bought a couple from advance auto parts...seem to work fine for my use. the 3/8 torque wrench seems like it was $29.95

old · May 30, 2008

I made the mistake years ago to buy one of the cheap ones. I used it and it just didn't seem right. So I then checked it by torquing something down and then used a beam type to check it and found it was off by more then 50% and I will never use one again unless its one of the high priced units. It could have cost me a $1000 engine rebuild
Hobby farm

Dick L · May 30, 2008

Why you NEED a click torque wrench? I bought a good click torque wrench probly 20 years ago. Thought it would be better than my old torque bar with the needle. Just for kicks I checked with both and not enough difference to sneeze about. I have not have the clicker out of the original box for over ten years. Not near as handy to use. Mine is longer and heavier and it seems to take longer in laying it down and picking it up. I might even use it again but then maybe not.

JDemaris · May 30, 2008

I bought a cheap clicker-wrench from Harbor Freight 25 years ago - and they still sell what looks like the same one - for around $17. My "old" one was made in Taiwan. I'm sure the new ones now are made in China. Mine has always worked fine. I also have a high-priced Snap On and also a Mac. The el-cheapo has worked just as well and has been just as accurate.

In regard to others saying the click wrench serves no purpose? I've been turning wrenches for 50 years - and have had to torque many bolts in tight areas where you could not read a conventional wrench. For those tight spots - a click wrench is a Godsend.

Dick L · May 30, 2008

You must be getting up there close to me in age. Didn't mean to say it has no purpose but the long arm one I have is a pain in the neck on most that I do. Last I used it was on the Oliver 1850 and I used a cheater pipe and used both hands to make it click. I bout have to use a cheater pipe to get to 80 pounds anymore with the torque bar.

I am like the song. I am not as good as I once was but I am as good once as I ever was. Problem is that engines have more than one bolt.

JDemaris · May 30, 2008

I've never ran into a problem on a tractor where a regular torque wrench would not work. But - on some cars in tight places - the clicker was the only way I could get a reading. No room to get your head over it to read. Now - if I had a pet monkey who could hold a little mirror over it - maybe.

I'll also add - that once the clicker-wrench is dialed in - I can tighten bolts without wearing my reading-glasses.

IH2444 · May 30, 2008

The main thing with the clicker torque wrenches is do not leave them adjusted up return the adjustment to 0 after using.

that being said I have had good luck with the cheapos.

buickanddeere · May 30, 2008

Ever meet anybody that claimed that a torque wrench is a waste of time and money?

jay-eye-see · May 30, 2008

I have, however I did NOT have him replace that new and very expensive aluminum head on my GM car. Guess i figured buying the head ,bolts ,and gaskets once was enough.

cadet trooper · May 30, 2008

Old, no disrespect intended but how do you know which one is right? the only way you know is if it is traceable by national standards.

Allan in NE · May 30, 2008

I've known a few guys like that over the years.

Always felt sorry for 'em. The way they had to always wear the boots and all. :>(

Allan

Walt Davies · May 30, 2008

Mine makes a good cheater bar for hard to remove bolts other than that I rarely use a torque wrench except on heads and a few things that need to be right on. I found that over the last 40 or more years I can get pretty close if I use the same length wrench.But not everyone can do that so a good torque wrench is always a useful item in your tool box. I have both types but use my clicker more than the other although I still think that its not as accurate.
I have a cheap one by harbor freight and real expensive one made for the US government that is in in.lbs.
Walt

trucker40 · May 30, 2008

Click type torque wrench is ok.Just make sure to unscrew the handle to take the tension off of the spring so it stays accurate.Beam types are good too.A click wrench is good for tight places.

old · May 30, 2008

Well for one thing I use 2 different beam torque wrenches on every thing I do. Both have always read pretty much the same. One is a craft mans so its a higher dollar one then the cheap one. Beam type are almost always very close to correct but the cheap clicker type who knows unless you pay to have one calibrated

Anonymous-0 · May 30, 2008

Had a guy ask me why I used a torque wrench while working on his engine ? He said,"cant you overhaul an engine without using one ?, I never do" I said "Yeah I guess I could , and a carpenter can build a house without a square,tape measure or level, but he will do a better job WITH those tools."
I doubt I convinced him. :-(

Anonymous-0 · May 30, 2008

A torque wrench is an instument, as is a micrometer, IMHO. I refuse to loan my torque wrenches, however, I am always willing to use my torque wrenches to torque fasteners to the specs that a friend wants..

MarkB_MI · May 31, 2008

Some of the clicker torque wrenches only work in the clockwise direction. Check before you buy. I discovered this when I tried to use an older Craftsman to torque the left-hand thread bolts on a differential ring gear.

Eric SEI · May 31, 2008

I got the click type torque wrench to use on our Haybine. When torquing the bolt on the cutter bar with 2 wrenches under the draw bar it is physically impossible to read a torque wrench. When Dad was alive he would watch the torque wrench for me. Now I have to work alone.

RodinNS · May 31, 2008

I have a used Snap-On and a couple of UltraPro's that came from Napa. The latter are not cheap, cheap but they aren't bad in price and do have some warranty on them as I recall... Still not a 20 buck job though. All of them work fine for me.
Click type is the only kind I care to use. You set them once and every bolt is the same...

Rod

guido · May 31, 2008

Hello Dick L
If you used a bar to extend the torque wrench handle you did not torque the bolts enough!
A 12 in. torque wrench with 2.56" extention would have torqued at 103 set at 125# for a 125# torque requirement.
Here is the formula you use to determine proper torque with an extention on the handle.
125 # example.

TI = Torque indicated 125#.
E = exstension lenght 2.56.
W= handle to torque axis 12 ".(torque wrench size)

FORMULA

TI =125x12=1500
12+2.56= 14.56
1500 / 14.56 = 103#
With the extention on the torque wrench you did not torque the fastner to the proper torque in this example 82.4 % of 125.
You need to recheck that torque!
Guido.

m16ty · Jun 1, 2008

Guido, It makes no differance in torque if you add a cheater bar. The part on the wrench that measures the torque dosen't move, only the end of the handle. Try it, it won't make any differance.

Anonymous-0 · Jun 1, 2008

I just put new rod and main bearings in a C-15 Cat and not only do you have to torque the mains but after that you have to put a 120 degree turn on them, talk about having to use a cheater, that was some work!

guido · Jun 2, 2008

Hello M16ty.
I have never questioned or altered the torque value or procedures.
The new way to torque most fasteners now is the TORQUE AND TURN method.Torque a fastener to a spcified torgue And the turn it a specified amount of degrees. The reason is simple, it provides a more consistent applied torque to the fastener.
Here is a picture of the tool used for this procedure. I do not have the experties or the proper equipment to disproof your statement.
The formula I posted is out of my school notes.
guido.

buickanddeere · Jun 2, 2008

guido
We are talking about an extension on the handle, not between the torque wrench and the socket.
The wrench still torques to the numbers on the dial, cheater bar or not.

guido · Jun 2, 2008

Hello george,s
You are using the proper procedure if you torque the fastener first and then advance it the degrees required.
Cummins revised the torque specs. on the main bearings, 150 Lb. Ft. advance 30 degrees.That turns out to be 300# that was the original torque but more accurate and consistent. When you advance the fastener a cheater bar will make it easier but the degrees of turn will be the same.
Here is a piture of the tool I used for the torque and turn method.
Guido.

Steven f/AZ · Jun 2, 2008

Depends on what I'm torquing... For intricate parts like rods, mains, head bolts, etc. I want to use a high-quality tool such as my Snap-On clicker or Dad's beam type torque wrench.

For my purposes down here in AZ I have a $20 cheapo. Bought it when I R&R'ed the flywheel on my car a few years ago. Now I use it to torque lug nuts - believe it or not on many of the newer cars if you don't have consistent torque on ALL the lug nuts you can/will warp a brake rotor...

Rootsy · Jun 2, 2008

Just because a torque wrench is new or old or expensive or cheap does NOT mean it is accurate... Over time they can and will change also....

It pays to have your torque wrench calibration verified and adjusted at least once a year if not every 6 months if you use it constantly.

Repeatability is also a major factor. In my experience you get what you pay for. What the heck good is a torque wrench if it is neither accurate or repeatable???

Here are the results for my 1/2" drive MAC tools torque wrench.

torque wrench

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