trouble starting my hand start D

Hi looking for a old Deere hand to help me with getting my 39 JD D started, pull starts within 5 feet,hand starting is not working seems to flood easy without using the choke(gas comes out of relief valve) any help would be appreciated.

Dumb question, I know, but are ya opening those pet-cocks?

Allan

Yes that is what I meant by the relief valves I drew a blank when it came to describing them thanks anyway.

Friend had a B do the same thing. Finally changed mag. for one off a tractor that started easy with flywheel. That fixed it. I guess when pulling, that turned engine and mag a little faster making a better spark.

To start with (no pun intended) if it has a Magneto ignition and it pull starts very easy but is difficult to hand start, my first suspect is a problem with the mags start impulse spring wind n trip assembly and/or a weak spark. Start/impulse timing can be CRITICAL, she needs to snap n fire right at TDC maybe a degreee or two before (but not too fast cuz she can kick back) but if she fires too late it CAN BE HARDER TO START

DOES IT (Mag) PRODUCE A LOUD SHARP "SNAP" WHEN YOU HAND CRANK IT VERSUS A FAINT DULL CLUNK OR NO SNAP AT ALL???? If so theres either a weak or broken spring or some other impulse assembly problem.

See first if shes indeed SNAPPING LOUD and if so check the spark and you need a good visible blue versus any faint thin wimpy yellow spark. If no snap check the impulse mechanism.

Just to be sure Id install a fresh set of spark plugs (once fouled they may not be real good) ,,,,,,,,check the points for proper gap and clean/buff polish and/or file and gap them n then check the spark quality

BOTTOM LINE you need a loud sharp snap from the mag and a good hot blue spark for good hand starts.

DO NOT OVERCHOKE n wet gas foul the plugs!!!! You only need choke till you get a gas vapor (NOT raw gas, flooded) out the petcocks then unchoke it. Id set the throttle at a slow idle when cranking,,,,,,open petcocks,,,,,,choke sparingly (lookin for gas vapor),,,,,,,insure fresh set of plugs n a good loud sharp mag SNAP and a good hot blue spark,,,,,,try different amounts of choke

Let us know

John T

Back when he farmed with them my Dad had a D that was hard to start by hand. Seems that the spark advance in the mag wasn't working. Or so he told me, never done much to a mag myself.

(quoted from post at 06:15:37 06/22/08) Dumb question, I know, but are ya opening those pet-cocks?

Allan

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Can you even turn the flywheel by hand without the petcocks open? Tried it on my A once, nothing happened.

John there is an occasional spark I put new 3076 autolite plugs in it what are the points gap supposed to be and plugs I just got the tract. sat I dont have a book yet what and where is this relief spring? thanks for your input.

If its a Wico X or C Model Mag I may be more help (points gap at 0.015), I give Seminars on those Models at some of the big national Two Cylinder shows, but if its the others like Dixie or Edison etc Im NO HELP. The points need to be gapped right n clean in good shape, it may help to just run a dollar bill throught them or non abrasively clean/buff/polish if they are gray oxide coated or use a points file if burned butttttttt its best to just get a new set if they arent in good shape. I prefer the hotter deep reach side wire electrode (less fouling problem) Autolite 3077 over the 3076. The impulse spring (on Wico n bout all others for that matter) is on the back side of the Mag (it has to be removed) under the drive cup. As far as setting the impulse start timing, if its a flange mount mag you loosen the 2 mount bolts/nut but if its a base mount you ahve to loosen the coupler and adjust it that way.

The problem is theres just tooooooo much to type it all here unless youre already basicALLY mag educated so you may wanna look for a John Deere or Wico etc basic shop manual and learn about timing and impulse etc etc FOR WHATEVER MAKE N MODEL MAG YOU HAVE

John T

John,it has a Wico C mag I ran some very fine sand paper thru it yesterday. I think I going to rebuild the carb. it allows gas to the petcocks without choking it even after sitting overnight sprays out what do you think? which kit would be suffice points area looked clean but I did not check the gap what is your opinion on all this Thanks.

If the carb has a problem like the float/needle/seat isnt working correct and she wet fouls the plugs shes gonna be tough to ever hand start. Those mags arent very forgiving, Id try a new set of points (gap at 0.015) n condensor for no more then they cost if they are badly burned or pitted. Im NOT a D kinda guy so can thelp much more aside from my postings above. Again the start timing needs to be right at TDC and a good hot blue spark for a hand cranker PLUS the carb cant be bad wet flooding the plugs

John T

Thanks for ALL YOUR HELP JOHN M.S. email [email protected]

I dont know diddly about a JD, or its mag, but I will say this: I took out the Autolite 3076s out of my F14 farmall and put in 3077s. Made all the difference in the world starting it, and running is better as well. The tips are different on the 3077s so I dont know if they will be too long for the JD or not.

You're supposed to open both petcocks while starting. Our neighbor, big old Fritz, was too lazy to walk all the way around the tractor and he only opened one. Everyone else I knew opened both.

If you can turn over a D without opening petcocks you are a bigger man then me.

Almost every time you can pull a tractor off but can't start it at slow engine speeds it's one or more of three things if it's spark related. Impulse isn't working(broken spring usually), weak magnets(pulling tractor spins mag faster than you can, changing magnetic lines of force faster in coil creating higher output) or a weak coil. You definately want to be able to control how much gas is getting in the cylinders first though. Good luck.
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