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Shims

L

Lanse

Well-known Member
I am currentally working on getting the C back together. Im to the crank and bearings now. I've shimmed the mains to 3/1000 and they still turn very hard, the crank doesnt want to move at all. Shim it more???

Same thing with the rods, but worse. I know the shims cant come in contact with the bearings at all, and they are very hard to cut with heavy sissors and a hole punch, and if i used more then one layer of pop cans there im afraid that, in installing the cap, i could push one of the shims down into the bearings. Any ideas here???
 
Did You use plastigage to check the clearance? You should try to hit .002 2/1000 as close as you can. If you do not have the plastigage you need to ask for the (green). You can mic paper and get the clearance but it takes a bit more skill.
 
What Dick said. When you're 50 years old and are rebuilding your 100th engine, you may be able to do it "by feel"- but until then, use Plastigage. Available at fine auto parts stores everywhere. And you'll feel kind of buff asking for it- anyone can hang billet crap on their tuner car, but only real men have need for plastigage.
 
I'd kill for that skill, LOL

Yes i did, and its somehow mashed down to 1/1000 according to plastigauge, and thats shimmed with a pop can. They were on sale so i got 10 strips of em
 
Put another pop can shim under the caps and take another reading. I take it that the engine is upside down with the weight of the crankshaft on the block bearings and not on the main cap halves of the bearings. Get the rods ot of the way and get the mains correct first. Best way for a beginner is to take the rings off the pistons until you have the correct clearance with it turnning freely and then put the rings on making sure you dont get the shims mixed up or lost.
 
Yeah, i will. I've been fiddling with it and i have it to 3/1000 right now, which i believe is where i will leave it. Its still hooked up to the rods, so i think i will unhook them and get the engine spinning good. I am not removing the head on this engine so i dont have to put it back on there. Bill said the valves are set perfactially as-is too. The engine is on it side on the floor, but no there is no weight or pressure on the crankshaft or the caps. Nothing was shimmed on this engine when i tore into it, not the rods, mains or anything. This is the crankshaft i got for nancy (the B) and im useing it here so i can get the C back together and out of my shop so its open for the B to get in there.


Dick; how would you shim the rods?? I'm thinking here that i could set both halves of the bearings in there and then use some grease to hold the shims to the rod (not the cap) then set the cap in there and tighten it up. Your thoughts??
 
No,No,No. Put one half in the rod and one half in the cap. Make sure that is clean enough to eat from before installing the bearing in the rod and cap. Squirt new motor oil under the bearing halves and wipe with a clean towel before inserting the bearing halves.
You can put a slight bit of grease on the shims to hold them in place.
I would get the engine blocked with the crankshaft up in the air.

If the rings are any good in that engine at all you will want to rotate the crankshaft for each rod so that the crankshaft has started to push the piston up. You do not want to be pulling the piston and rod down onto the crankshaft with the rod cap trying to get a plastigage reading.
 
never heard the towel part. I've been just spreading it on there liberally and setting it in. Any problems with that????
 
Can I just ask if you have checked the crank for ovality? If it is oval your clearances will be OK one way but tight as you turn.....

Regards, RAB
 
If this is a C Allis another thing to check is if the rods are positioned correctly on the wrist pins. If not they may be binding
 
sure can. I have not checked myself, but R Aiken who i got if from said it was good. I'll take his word for it
 
No axe to grind, no idea who that person might be, or ought.

BUT, if it were me, even a gift would be checked before use. It may be 'in spec' on ovality and you need a bit more clearance than you think. BUT you won't know unless you check it. Why risk 'spoiling the ship for a ha'p'orth of tar'?

Regards, RAB
 
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