torque specs.

I would like some info on what the torque would be on a J.D. 620 head and rods

1-800-522-7448
How did you check the rest of the engine and assemble it to spec without the service manual?
What is the crank end play set to?

Buick, if you dont want to give him the specs why do you even respond?Have a nice day!

You just have to ignore his ignorance.Instead of acting like he knows it all maybe he should have stayed in school a little longer. (There always has to be one in the bunch.)

It's not ignorance. Real "ignorance" is seen in those who rely on HERESAY instead of educating oneself through BOOKS.

Guess that makes me #2 of the so-called BUNCH.

If the guy is going to the time, work and expens eof rebuilding the engine. Why doesn"t he make certain the job is done correctly?
The data in the service manual is cheap insurance.
There"s never enough money to do the job right but there"s always enough money to do the same job over again.
If I tore into a machine at work without finding all about it first. Then assembled it via "by guess and by golley", "that otta work". I"d be infront of the section manager then having three days off work without pay and a hissy letter on my file.

"I"d be infront of the section manager then having three days off work without pay and a hissy letter on my file." You talk to me as a customer like you replied to R Danner you'll have one less customer in your file

Good point Buick.

Dang R Danner!!! see what happens when you have them kinda thoughts?? I didn't hear you say you were 'blue-printin' a deere engine--maybe i missed something--

B&D is right on the money!

Just like a post from lower down - I was going to reply but thought what the hell, if that is the way to do a repair.....I would only get someone who doesn't have a clue, or thinks they know it all, on my back.

I see it all the time on here. A guy has a problem and he gets every example of what might be wrong, but not necessarily with the symptoms of the patient, 'cos he hasn't thought about the symptoms.

If you go to the doctor and say 'I am unwell', he will find out the symptoms before advising medication. No different here, excepting most responders are not doctors, just guessers.

Quote from post below: "Rebuilt engine, It had a rod bearing that turned. I had to replace the crankshaft,Now I cannot get the engine to oil,what i dont know is wheather or not the oil pump failure was the cause of the the rod bearing turn"

If you go to the expense of replacing the crank and just say 'the oil pump looks good (on the outside?) and not actually check it out properly, you should not bleat when later you replace the crank again. A better route would be to change out the pump as a matter of course. The same pricipal applies in this thread.

B&D might be a bit direct, but I am afraid that I am too. If you are a supplier and just give the information requested, you are as bad as the bloke asking. A better reply might be 'Have you got all the rest of the torque specs?' and then explain why they are needed, and then suggest they buy your shop manual....

Same result in the end. But this is not a shop. The information is free and worth either as much as it cost to post, or perhaps someone's life or at least saves a big hole in their pocket.

RAB

Mr. Danner, Ignore the naysayers....the computer you have at your hands contains not only every bit of information found in the service manuals that B&D seemingly relies on, but the life experiences of those that have "been there/ done that" as well.
Ask away... ignore the a-holes and take good info where ever you can get it. Use Google- you'd be surprised what will pop up.
BnD, what if he's holed a piston and is swapping a single rod with block in place- why would he want to check end play then? And why should he tell you his life story when he just needs two peices of info? Give it, or don't reply- simple! A little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing- it turns people into blowhards and horse haters!

Different industries have different standards.
Anybody not heard of a "R.Danner" after "rebuilding" his tractor having all kinds of problems with it.Usually the tractor gets blamed, not the person who slapped it together with shortcuts.
Odds are if you asked how much taper in the bores,the ring end gap and bearing clearances. He would give you a blank look.

Horse people can be an odd bunch, won"t touch that topic.

While some of your guys are being being so holy. Guess who actually does have the specs while the rest of you don"t?
Assuming this is a gasser and not a LP or all-fuel.
Here"s some data but it"s going to hurt him more than it helps him.
132 psi compression,slow idle rpms 600, fast idle 1260, full load rpms 1125.
Tappet clearance 20 thou, points 22 thou. Initial timing TDC, mechanical advance 20 degrees.
Coolant system 6-1/2 gallons, crankcase /filter 8 gallons, hydraulics 11 quarts, pto clutch 4 quarts, 1st reduction gear 1-1/2 quarts, power steering 5 quarts.
Spark plugs 35 lb ft, cylinder head 150 lb ft, block to crankcase 167 lb ft, rod bolts 100-110 lb ft, main bearing caps 150 lb ft, flywheel bolts 275 lb ft, fan and oil pump drive nut 30 lb ft, oil filter body to oil filter head 14 lb ft, oil pump to main case 83 lb ft, vent pump screws 21 lb ft.
Rear wheel to rim bolts 100lb ft, rear axle housing to main case 167 lb ft, final drive gear housing to drive shaft housing 275 lb ft, rear axle housing/cover pto/hydraulics 83 lb ft, drawbar support to rear axle housing 458 lb ft.

knew you wouldn't be able to resist that part

thanks for the help. This is my first time working on something major like taking a head off of a tractor and putting new pistons in and putting it back together.