(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

O/T Odd brake problem on wifes car

O

old

Well-known Member
Location
Camdenton Missouri
She drives a 1981 Chev citation. Well just replaced both the right side caliper and rear brake cylinder. Well when I was bleeding the brakes I got good pressure from the caliper but none when bleeding the rear one. Is this maybe a bad master cylinder??
Thanks
Hobby farm
 
Could be a bad master.See if you have pressure at the rear brake portion of the master by cracking line open while someone pushes down pedal.

Replaced 2 master cyls. this week due to no pressure at rear brakes after line repairs.Both had rusted out rear lines.
 
Could be bad master. Could be ran out of fluid. Did any fluid make it to the rear cyl? Think you should bleed farthest away, the rear, first. Never saw bleeder that wouldn't pass fluid, but I guess it could happen. What if you remove bleeder and see if fluid comes through? Should be able to see little holes in bleeder and clean it up. All I can think of without being there.
 
Crack the line to the rear brakes at the MC. If it will not make juice there, it is a bad cylinder. If it does, it may have a valve in the proportioning system that is stuck. Rusted out lines (as mentioned) are another possible reality. JimN
 
I THINK??? that those body styles used a cross braking system =LF/RR, RF/LR, no proportioning valve. Seems at the time there was a lot of trouble with brakes on that series of vehicles. Have you tried power bleeding or vacuum bleeding ?? I have sometimes had luck with just leaving the bleeder cracked and letting gravity bleed the system.
 
If I"m remembering right the Citations had trouble locking up rear brakes , or locking up one rear brake, on normal light-pedal slowdowns. Don"t recall what the fix was, if there was one.
 
I have fluid at the rear just no pressure and when the brake pedal is pushed down the rear brakes do not seem to work at all. Also the brake light on the dash stays on all the time
Hobby farm
 
Old, you have to get the valve to recenter, the correct way to bleed and center is slowly(one pump should take 15sec.)start at the RR then LF then LR and then the RF. only open the bleeder one time per wheel,when the light goes out stop no matter what wheel you are on.You may do this for an hour but it will work. After you have the valve centered then you can gravity bleed the system to get the air out. I know from experience you should go ahead and replace the other wheel cyl and the caliper while you are there,they will quit next week. ASE
 

Wow - I am amazed there are any of these still on the road! I bought one new in 81 but sold it just as soon as the warranty ran out because there was no way I could afford so many repairs. Even the service manager at the dealership called it a "Situation" instead of a citation - because every owner had a situation on their hands.

Yes, the rear brakes were goofy. It didn't throw me too bad whenever one rear wheel would lock up, but it was hard on tires. Good luck with that!
 
Right front wheel on kid's olds would always lock up. Came on gradually. New caliper, new master, still locked up. Changed hose to wheel and the locking stopped. I've read lots of trouble with the hoses anymore. Good luck! joe-
 
THis is the answer!! THe valve in question has 4 lines going to it and an electrical terminal. The if bleeding is done, or the system looses pressure on a wheel, the valve slides to shut off that wheel keeping the other three.
Centering that valve is a pain. Just bleed as described above, and when the light goes out, stop. going any further with the pedal will light it again! JimN
 
If the light is on in the dash, the proportioning valve has one side of the master cylinder locked out. You can easily re-center the valve by screwing the little switch (one wire, to the dash light) out of the combination valve block. Take a small pick and move the valve back to center. It is shaped like an hour glass, the narrow part should be centered in the hole. Then crack the bleeder valves and gravity bleed the system till all the air is out. Be sure to keep the master cylinder full of fluid! That should take care of your problem. HTH.
Good Luck and God Bless.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

W
1965 Chevy C60 brake problem
2
Replies
31
Views
3K
miangus
M
EX Deere Farmer
5210 Brakes dragging issues!!!
Replies
3
Views
741
jddrawbar
J
jd2cyl1943
Here's the story of my JD Bs restoration up to this poi
2
Replies
26
Views
2K
jd2cyl1943
jd2cyl1943
C
Mico Acummulock?? & brake bleeding stumped!
Replies
7
Views
16K
Cariboo4x4
C
Hobo,NC
1970 Chevy C-10 brake problem
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Hobo,NC
Hobo,NC
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top