Very low oil pressure on new engine

clodkicker

New User
I just finished overhauling our M tractor and replaced the oil pressure gauge (the markings on the old one were not visible); I did not replace the oil pump. The tractor starts but the oil gauge does not move. I took the pressure line off of the oil gauge while the tractor was running and all that was coming out of the line was a pencil lead size stream of oil. :evil: I removed the oil filter, started the engine up and the oil did fill up in the reservoir. Then I took the oil pan off and removed the plug on the oil pump and squirted oil into the pump until the oil ran out of the plug. I took the oil pan down a second time to check the oil pump and checked the spring and all. Everything seemed fine. Can't find a replacement oil pump or the kit? Any ideas? I am getting very frustrated.
 
Probably need to prime pump. Different procedures. Somebody will tell you. Sometimes pack with grease. Sorry don't know exactly. Dave
 
Yes--checked the relief valve--everything is good there.

quote="RKM"](quoted from post at 20:10:22 02/03/09) Did you check the relief valve to make sure it is not stuck open?[/quote]
 
Yes pack the oil pump gears with grease and make sure there is a gasket on the pump cover. The thickness on this gasket is very important. Too thick will cause too much side clearence at the gears and the oil will just sneak by the gears instead of going to the bearings. Also check the pump cover for any signs of wear that the gears may have caused. You may have to lay this cover on a sanding block with real fine wet/dry sand paper and wet it with oil then sand the cover until the marks of the gears are gone.
 
After putting the pump back together with about .001" to .0005" total end clearance (gaskets are used as shims and are very thin). use a squirt oil can to fill the oil gallery, through the pressure gauge hole, with oil until there is added resistance to pumping. This means the gallery is primed. JimN
 
Did you have the block dipped? A pipe plug on the oil gallery internally may have been removed during cleaning. Hal
 
A couple of wierd things comes to mind. The first one is Hal's suggestion. We ran into that with a Willys jeep engine once. And the second one is an embarrasement for me, but back in my young days I put a Rambler engine back together with standard bearings without measuring the crank. The crank was .010 under from the factory. Pressure was pretty good until it warmed up. After it was warm the pressure dropped way down and the rattling started. Jim
 

I REBUILT A M ONCE AND REBUILT THE OIL PUMP. IT HAD VERY LOW PRESSURE . HAVING REBUILT HUNDREDS OF PUMPS I WAS REALLY SCRATCHING MY HEAD. ENDED UP PUTTING IN A NEW PUMP THE CUSTOMER PAID FOR , I ATE THE LABOR . HE WAS HAPPY WITH THAT,AND THE OIL PRESSURE.. LUCAS
 
Grease is thick and will probably do the job but
might not mix with oil readily. "Lubriplate"
engine assembly lube is made for that application
and also bearing shells etc. It is a special
formulated grade of white grease that gives super
engine protection on initial startup and yet
fully disolves in warm oil.
Available at NAPA or others!
 
I ran in to the same problem with a overhaul on a 140.
As Hal said check for a missing oil galley plug. Mine was behind the timing cover.I replaced the plug, put back together and excellent pressure.

Randy In Iowa
 
(quoted from post at 22:01:06 02/03/09).... The thickness on this gasket is very important. Too thick will cause too much side clearence at the gears and the oil will just sneak by the gears instead of going to the bearings. ...

What John B. said ..... I learned this the hard way ..... :oops:
 
(quoted from post at 04:52:04 02/04/09) Did you have the block dipped? A pipe plug on the oil gallery internally may have been removed during cleaning. Hal

Yes, I did have the block dipped. Where would the pipe plug be located exactly.
 

Thanks--I'll try this. I got the kit from Yesterday's Tractors and I have to check to see if the plate is worn.
 

Crank was done at the machine shop to .020. I called up YT and told them so they could send the right bearings.
 
Check to make sure cam bearings are in right.They can be used to cover up oil gallies as well.Built a 350 Chevy engine years ago and the back cam bearing needs to be in all the way to cover up oil grove in the back.Make sure oil pump drive is correctly installed.Oil plugs should be behind the timing gears may be one down by the main caps.Also not to be funny ,but do you have the main bearings in the right location.I've heard of people putting the bottom bearing in the top spot blocking of the oil holes.Just trying to throw somethings out there to look at.Good Luck Blaine
 

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