OT for Electricians: will this Junction Box pass inspection?

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

Will this box in the picture pass inspection (after stapling wires to code) ?

This box will be in the ceiling of a closet with an access panel. The box is 4 11/16" square x 2" deep.

In the picture, the source comes in from the top and three sets of two recessed lights are on three switches. Total load is less than 600 watts. Nothing else will be on the circuit. All bare wire grounds tied together and pigtailed to the box.

Will I be able to run a second circuit with 4 switches and 4 separate lights ? Total load less than 600 watts. Nothing else will be on this circuit either.

My electrician helper hasn't been able to come over and critique my work.


<IMG SRC="http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/8120/firstbox.jpg">
 
Your bare grounds need bonded to any metal box by using a green bonding screw in the threaded hole provided in the bottom . Wrap only one bare wire to the screw & then twist all bares together after that with pliers , then install the wire nut . All wires need to be taped at the wire nut connection . Now, it looks like you have 2 pieces of romex going into one box connector ? That's a No No . Also depending on the size of box there's a limit as to how many wires can be installed , & you have too many already .For inspection , covers need attached so inspector can be sure its available for that box . Also anytime you use romex for switches , be sure to wrap blk tape around the white wire because its no longer a neutral . Many people have been hurt by thinking white is always neutral & there's no current in it .But with a switch application both black & color coded white wires will have current in them when its thrown on . Your electrical supplier should be able to give you up to code help . Its been several years since I've done wiring & the code has changed so many times since i'm truthfully not up to date on it . I do HTH ! God bless, Ken
 
An extension ring would get the box up to code volume wise.
There is no need, desire or code reason to wrap wire nuts with tape. That's just an old wives tale.I've asked both hydro inspectors and a rep from wire nut.
 
Well I was taught differently due to it making an additional insulation & secure bond . I've actually gotten shocked through a wire nut when working with DC voltage .So I always made it a safety factor by using tape . I always figure , why take a chance .Besides that, my inspectors got to where they didn't question any of my work because they knew I was very safety minded . Yes a box extension would get him by if he set his box in far enough .But having 2 pieces of romex in one box connector is a no no . God bless, Ken
 
Thanks for the reply.

I thought I saw that it was O.K. to have one or two romex in one connector. If I need to change it, I have another spot to do it.

The grounds are all tied in like you stated they should be and then screwed to the box. I also have tape on the hot wires for the switches. The box has 64 cubic inches... I'll have to double check to see if that's enough.

Tape around the nuts does offer extra protection from the nuts coming loose.

But, it doesn't sound like I'm too far away from passing inspection (even if I can't have two romexin one connector).

Thanks again.
 
The box is fine and you don't have to put any tape on the wirenuts. If you guys look carefully, that's not a standard 4" box, but the larger oversized 11B box (that's what they're called here.) Shouldn't bring two sets of wires under the one connector though.
 
Yes and no.Without calculating amount of conductors looks good but wires must be secured within twelve inches of entering box.I would have used yellows but the orange blues fit then fine.Its a pretty neat box for a homeowner.You have the right idea on making a good splice.I always tug each wire to ensure that its tight in the wirenut.Box with bracket is available but your mounting is fine too.Looks nice and neat compared to some journeymen Ive seen.Cant see the ground screw but that tail must be landed behind the other wires.As far as your second question Im not following but you can run anything you want in another box.
 
Oh yes ,you are very close . And if I may say so , you are doing a neat job Always do a project so that you aren't ashamed to admit you did it & if someone else saw it they'd think how neat & organized it was . Several times I'd been out on some troubleshooting jobs & when I took the covers of the main panel or junction boxes involved , I couldn't see what wire went where (very unprofessional work). I always liked keeping all individual colors running in seperate areas of the box so they are visable & tracable. When they started making the main panels with 2 bars it made it so much easier to keep all neutrals on one bar & all grounds on the other . Be sure you use the Bonding screw .It especially inspired me whenever the inspectors would come out to the jobsite & say to me : you keep your wiring so neat & organized & I never have to worry . I had 2 old timers teach me how to make my jobs look professional . I miss working & keeping up with the code changes . Here's a little tip also : check with your electrical supplier about when there's going to be an electrical code seminar & where . Then ask to go . They were always free & quite educational & buy yourself a book . I do hope I've been some help . Good luck & never be too proud to ask for help . God bless, Ken
 
Ok after reading the other guys take that one connector with the two wires and give it a separate rx conn.Not sure if that will pass but its not normal practice anyhow.Doubling up is only used on temporary panels that get ripped out later. I want to kill guys that tape up the wirenuts .Sorry but its just a tape gum mess when you have to open the splice later on.Just my opinion.
 
Heres the math for you using 12awg.2.25cu/in per conductorx14 wires plus one group of grounds 14x2.25=31.5 +2.25 for ground cond.31.5+2.25=33.75So 33.75cu/in of space required for what you now have in a 44 cu/in box.This would be less for 14 awg.[2cu/in per conductor].And more for other things like fixture hickey,internal clamps,device in box etc.which you dont have.You could fit alot more and are way ok now on box size.Dont forget to put the cover on.If this doesnt make sense dont worry Im not trying to teach it just calculating your box for no12 awg wires and it will pass.Ive go to go look at some Isky cam specs Im too electrically helpful today.
 
Since it is white NM cable we will assume it is #14. 7 14/2= 14 conductors plus one for the grounds makes 15. Per NEC 314.16A this size box will allow 21. Plenty of room

Good advice here, especially reidentifying the white wire on a switch leg. Very often neglected.

Also, there are connectors made that are listed for two NM cables. There is no code prohibition for this. It only requires that the connectors used be listed for the purpose- in this case 2 14/2 cables.
 
Hope you have room for personal opinions. In a sorta buried spot like this I would use Buchanan connectors, which use a copper sleeve crimped on wires and snap on cap. Need special tool to do it right. Loose wires can heat up and melt wire nuts. Ran into melted job 3 weeks ago. It shorted to box and burned up switch and transformer, too. All inspectors don't agree but I was told on one home rewire that if inspector found any wire nuts anywhere, he would not pass inspection. And if wire nuts are the only thing you can find, please tape securely. Many fall off. This is about safety and not having ANY problems, fire being the worst. Entire code book is written by insurance underwriters. Still have my license after 40 years and I would die before I left a job in unsafe condition. Looks neat and clean and others have told the rest. Anybody remember when a splice had to be soldered, taped with rubber tape and then friction tape? Dave
 
I just picked up some connectors at Lowes today and the package says for one or two 14-2 to 12-2 nonmetalic sheathed cable.
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