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call it gasket coating?

showcrop

showcrop

Well-known Member
well I'm going with the $10.00 instead of $$98.00 oil pan gasket. Now I want to try to hedge my bet with something to help the gasket to stay stuck to the surfaces. I seem to remember something back in the cobwebs that was an aerosol gasket coating that you sprayed on both sides to make it adhere better. anyone know what that was?
 
I remember an item called hi-tack, very sticky had a brush mounted to the inside of the lid, not sure if still available was at auto parts stores.

Adrian
 
You dont say what the oil pan is on?The best thing for an oil pan gasket is contact cement.The spray on stuff might work on something,but I dont think it would be my choice on a pan gasket.Contact cement for gaskets comes in a tube.You put the contact cement in a few places and let it set until its stuck with bolts stuck through the holes backwards.Pull the bolts out and carefully put the pan up to the block and start a bolt in each corner,then the rest,then tighten down working from the middle out.Different pans may need to have the gasket stuck to the block.Use the same stuff.That would be for a cork type gasket.It might work on a rubber gasket,but you probably need to ask what would work at the parts store.
 
I go with old Ford. Copper coat holds the gasket in place and also really seals good. Bernie Steffen
 
Sounds like your referring to areosol High Tack.Better than that is Aviation Permatex applied with brush.I figure not often a plane breaks down.After the excess squeezes out you can clean it off with thinners.
 
What ever you use to stick the gasket, be sure to clean all oil off the sealing surfaces so it can adhere. Brake cleaner works very well for this.
 
i use a 3m product called super weatherstrip and gasket adhesive. apply to valve covers or oil pans, glue the gasket to the pan or valvercover, one side only. a lot easier to put the pan on, and on a valve cover, if you use gun grease on the other side of the gasket, you can pop the valve cover off to adjust valves and not ruin the gasket. here it is
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Untitled URL Link
 
On the old cork gaskets I used Permatex and since they were often mis-shapen I would tie them in place through the bolt holes with sewing thread. Once in place with a bolt started the thread could be yanked out easily.
 
Dad taught me this trick. You get yourself some of that aluminum paint. It settles out in the can, and then you pour the oil off the top to get to the aluminum paste below. Dip a brush in the paste and paint the gasket. Then install the gasket. When you tighten everything up it won't leak!
 
I use Hi-Tack on most of my gaskets now. It's the brush-on type with the brush in the cap of the can. Very sticky stuff, and it's easy to keep a thin layer. I coat the metal parts and the gasket itself, and let it sit a few minutes before assembling. The gaskets stick in place very well. Also, if you need to take it apart at a later time, you can easily clean it from the metal surfaces using acetone. I also use Permatex Form-A-Gasket (not to be confused with silicone gasket maker,) which is the sticky brown stuff similar to Hi-Tack. Form-A-Gasket is runny, and I use it also for sealing pipe threads on fuel lines, etc. After I install an oil pan, I use black silicone to run a bead all around the outside of the oil pan to cover the edge of the gasket.
 
For valve covers, I stick the gasket to the valve cover using Hi-Tack, then put white grease on the gasketing surface on the head. When I take the cover off later to adjust valves, the gasket stays stuck to the cover with no mess.
 
I have a 1940s service manual that mentions that[aluminum paint].I use it on copper head gaskets,no leaks so far.First it will help the gasket seat then stop any leaks.
 
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