I cant believe im doing this

But i am. My B ate a throwout bearing. After replacing literally every part of the engine, now all it needs is a throwout bearing, a front end, and an oil pan gasket. Yipee. After a new gasket and tons of silicon, its leaks anyway. This frustrates me to no end.

I honestally dont know why i dont park it in the barn and move on with my life, but i dont. I should call it a wash and put the engine in another tractor, but i wont. Not sure why, but something is motivating me to keep going. I dont know what, but something is. Its a really strange feeling.

So anyway....

Looks like i have to once more split the dang thing. This really sucks.

All the other times ive had to do this, ive had the engine apart and its no big deal. This one isnt apart.

How would i lift it out?? Theres the kubota with the loader on it, but where do i put the chain??

Im thinking i could remove the rebuilt rocker arms on the rebuilt head and put the really wore out, beat apart set on there. If they bend, its no big deal. But will that hold the weight of the engine?? I dont care about the old set of rockers, or the studs, but i really dont want to mess up Dick L's rebuilt head if the studs come flying out and take the threads with them, and mabey a chunk of iron too while the rest of the engine comes down on my foot.

And while were on it, any advice on that oil pan?? It diddnt leak on the last tractor it was on, the first C (thats probabally my problem) but id does leak with a ton of formagasket on there and a new gasket. Any ideas??

first " i put a ton of form a gasket on there" lanse, thats why it leaks, you just use a thin film when using a gasket, second, if im wrong [i may be i havent seen a B in years up close] correct me, but isnt a B a framless tractor? that is the engine and trans and final drive IS the frame, to split that type of tractor you can use 2 floor jacks on a concrete slab, place long all thread 2 or 3 foot, of the appropppiate size on each side of the engine and trans at the split and slide the 2 halves apart riding on the all thread so they can stay lined up, isn't this a narrow front? if so brace the front at the engine so it cant flop over before you split as extra precauion, and slide the rear assembly away from the engine, r & r the whole clutch while your in there and the front trans seal would be a good idea if you can get to it easy that way when your done, your done, you wont have to go back in there

Never lift a motor by the studs if you have any plan on keeping them.

What I do with mine is pull a couple of studs out, and replace them with bolts, having put the bolts through the links of the chain I'm going to lift it with. One stud on each side. On the International 113/123 (similar size motor) I take one from each side, each of them one in from the end, on opposite ends to get a diagonal lift.

Lanse, Silicone is one of the worst gasket sealers.In a dry sump engine [like a Harley] it can break loose and clog the oil pump and cost you a motor.Stick to the Permatex type sealers.Excess silicone can often be found loose squeezed out into the oil pan.Think of yourself as working on a race car and its not so bad tearing it down again.If it has nnalert or wheels it will annoy you.

Lanse You are getting more of an education on mechanical things than you realize. Most young people your age don't have any idea what's going on when it comes to mechanical things. If it doesn't have a computor hooked to it they are lost. Just hang in there, and don't give up. Stan

The permatex I use IS silicone, the blue stuff. Used correctly I think it is the best way to seal up a stubborn gasket. Apply to surface of gasket, loosely tighten to set the surfaces together, let set up most of the way, maybe an hour or two. Tighten the rest of the way.

I had an early Pinto engine that just would not seal so I got mad and thew the gasket away and ran a 1/4' bead of blue permatex around the pan. Set the pan on to stick it together. Came back the next day, tighten it up. Never leaked again!

Pan leaks on these engines can be caused from not getting the gaps sealed at the front and rear covers. I dope them and leave them set for at least a half day. Most of the time longer. I leave them about an 1/16 inch high. If you leave it to high you break the bond at the crack when you tighten the pan.

"if it hastits or wheels, it will annoy you"

the ones with thetits REALLLLLY annoy me, 500 times as bad as ones with wheels.

Hey Lance,

Why not use a wide flat nylon tow strap or two? If possible tuck it threw behind the manifold so the engine can't tip over forward or back then right around under the pan and back up the other side. Do not use one of those 1" tie down rachet straps (broke two on my Ford 3000 engine project) The straps don't dig into sheet metal or paint the way chains do and they are light. You do have to watch out for sharp edges and their length isn't easy to adjust like a chain (hence my attempted use of the cheapie tie down straps.) For my 3000, I blocked up under the transmission, then suspended the rear of the engine from an engine hoist, unbolted, then rolled the engine away on the front tires and the hoist.

Good luck
Alf

Now that I like.

Liftin' by fours I can get along with.

Not only annoy but cost way more than the ones with tires, and you can sell the ones with tires when they are used up.

Lanse,
I used a product called ultra black on my discbine bar. Its a gasket maker and worked great. Take a wire wheel on a grinder and get all the old stuff off on both surfaces then lay a thin bead all the way around and see what happens