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O/T, S-10 fuel pump

G

greygoat

Well-known Member
I"ve done a search, but don"t get a specific
answer. My 99 Chev. S-10 is starting hard. I had
it in an independent shop, who says that the
fuel pump is ok but a check valve, in the pump,
is failing, so fuel doesn"t stay in the line, so
you have to crank awhile before it starts. They
want $651 for an AC/Delco pump, and $250 for
dropping the tank and installation.
Has anyone put an inline pump in the line?
How about trying a small check valve in the line?
My shop will only put in a AC/Delco OEM pump,they
say they have had "preformance issues" with NAPA
and other brands.
What would you Forum members do? There"s lots of
experiance out there, and I respect your advice !
 
I had same problem with my Dodge Dakota truck went to salvage yard 75 Bucks , 1 strong son 2hrs time , I would junk a vehical before I let a dealers butt touch me vehical
 
Try cycling the key on for 5 seconds, then off, then on for 5 seconds a couple of times before cranking it. If the fuel is REALLY draining back, this will force fuel through the system and it should start right up as the fuel pump is turned on for a few seconds each time the key is switched to "ON".

If the pump is weak, this will not help. The pump needs to maintain full pressure (IIRC about 50PSI) even during the cranking process or the injectors won't "pop" and no fuel will be injected = harder and harder to start.

Replace the pump before it fails and leaves you stranded on the road.

You can get an AC Delco or Bosch pump for HALF the dealer price at RockAuto.com. and perhaps save a little on the installation if you shop around (or do it yourself).

You didn't give us a clue as to what engine it has, if it has the vortec 4.3 with the goofy "octopus" central fuel injection module hidden INSIDE the intake manifold that can cause flooding/fuel leakdown/hard start problems as well.
 
I usually forget dropping the tank on those.I pull the bed up and clean the top of the tank.I then change the pump unit out.Takes only a couple of hours.You can then check it all before bolting the bed back down.To me it is easier than pulling the tank that is full of fuel nine times out of ten.That pump can also be had a lot cheaper than that quote.Get a pump from a Napa or Carquest store.Not a major problem to repair.
 
2.2 liter, 134 cid 4 cyl.
I get 26 mpg on long trips, (Wisconsin to Omaha),
23-24 city and country, 22 in winter. I set the
cruise control at 60 on long trips.
 
Had to do the Astro van in November after all said and done, cost me a 900$ bill,pump was about half the total.
 
Have you tried turning the key on but not the starter so that the pump runs? [You can hear it humming]
Probably have to run it as long as it has been taking to fire before hitting the starter.
I'm a believer in taking the bed off too.
 
Been there, done that. Just get an $200 aftermarket pump and drop it in. Summit racing catalog stocks several as just one example.
Check the voltage at the pump. Rusty connections will drop the voltage and reduce a good pump's pressure.
 
I did that on my 1500 Chevy pickup.50 dollars for a fuel pump from salvage yard about 2 hours for me and my son to drop the tank and put it in put the tank back on.Taking the bed off would be easier,but I sprayed the bolts good with liquid wrench after I cleaned the threads with a wire brush on the tank straps.Then took them off with an impact wrench.It took longer to jack the truck up than it did to get the tank off,but it was kind of hard to get the lines off.Cant remember now just what the problem was other than the lines were real rusty.Anyway I got all that with the one from the salvage yard which was in much better shape than mine.
 
seems lil high ,,but Delco may be reason . I have had few problems with aftermarket pumps years ago ,not so much anymore . I think last one I had in shop went out the door close to $700-750 .
I drop the tank ,seems everytime I tried to take box off I was by myself , or fighting rusted bolts, of course , having hoist helps . Bite the bullet , by a new pump . Used ? hmmm I always get that question in the shop My answer "You have a USED one now " why would you want another ? Not worth the headache of doing the job twice . Also the new pump will have the updated connector harness included , or most do . They had a bad probblem of arcing and bad connections with the old style .
 
Aftermarket pumps are problematic,,, tho aftermarket are cheaper I do not offer a warranty on a aftermarket pump so its the customers call,,, go cheap no warranty are OEM and get a warranty.

I can not comment on the price,,, he can sell it for what he wants and charge what he wants,,, its up to you to sign the repair order.

I do not fudge with a gas tank for the normal going rate,,, if I am going to take a chance on burn'n the shop down then I charge for it,,, to much can go wrong.

You did not give enough info to make a call
 
My 2500 does the same thing after it sits overnight,just turn the key to the on position and count to 4 and turn it off and do it again then start it and go. The fuel pump will only run for 5 seconds without starting then it shuts off(safety)if you cycle the switch it has a chance to pump up the high pressure it needs to run.
 
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