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Pertronix problem?

T

TimWafer

Member
I installed a Pertronix ignition on my Skid Steer about a month or more ago. I used their flamethrower 3-ohm coil and all seemed fine at the time. In fact it was running great back when it was warm! Haven’t really used it since then. It just has a little Wisconsin V4HD engine in it by the way.
Yesterday I need it because my diesel tractor gelled up and we got about a foot of snow and I needed the skid steer as a backup to dig out.
It started initially but was pretty sluggish which I attributed to the cold. Usually it warms up in a few minutes and is fine but it seemed to get worse and eventually seemed like only 2 cylinders were firing. I limped it back to the barn and found that pulling the plug wires off either or both of two of the cylinders had little effect while doing the same on the other two made it die or nearly die. Also noticed that the spark would jump at least a half-inch on the two good cylinders while barely noticeable on the two weak cylinders. The plugs are new and I set them to .035” I replaced the cap & rotor today since I saw some moisture underneath. None of that helped the situation however and I’m getting frustrated. I guess I can replace the wires next unless somebody has another idea what the problem might be. Couldn’t really see any sparks leaking from the wires in the dark but doesn’t mean there isn’t.
I finally got the tractor started after replacing the filters and bleeding the whole system so I’m not desperate at the moment but it is still snowing.
Tim
WWW.TIMWAFER.COM
 
I helped a relative install a Pertrtonix system on his little Ford 1.6 powered Bobcat.
It's been a year, so the details are a bit fuzzy,BUT, I seem to remember that he also had the Pertronix coil and the factory ignition ballast resistor had to be removed because of the Pertronix coils 12V (3 ohm) primary winding.

If you still have the Bobcat ignition ballast resistor inline with a 12V (3 ohm) coil, I would suspect it would cause weak spark.
 
They are really "cranky" about having a good solid ground.

An intermittent ground will fry that pickup coil every blessed time.

Allan
 
EI is not adding parts. There are fewer parts in EI than points.
EI is more dependable, lasts forever and requires NO maintenance.
EI doesn't give a rip about the condition of your distributer bushings.
EI gives you constant dwell at all rpms and therefore gives you optimum power and fuel economy.
EI gives you faster starts in Sub Zero weather.
EI has no parts that wear out and loves full battery voltage and no imfamous ballast resistors.
EI is the industry standard and has been for most of 40 years.
 
Agree totally LOL.
Most of those old rigs never started so good, or ran a pretty as they do with a magnetic trigger EI system.
Worn shafts, bushings and point cam lobes mean almost nothing to those conversions, so they run better than new.
 
Contrary to what some people think these units do not last forever. I have Pertonix on my TO-30 that crapped out after 4 years of use. In ran perfect on Sunday and would not fire on Monday.

I contacted Carl at Pertronix and he told me how to run the tests to check for problems and it turned out the unit was not switching (I could see that with my voltmeter attached but I ran their test and confirmed it). I was able to buy a replacement module from Pertronix for $51 + shipping.

google Pertonix and contact them via email or phone. They are located in California, they speak English, and they very helpful.
 

Directions read

"3.0 OHM coil 4&6 cyl normal applications remove resistor"

or 4&6 cyl if you use a 1.5 ohm coil keep resistor in place
 
Jerry is right. Contact Pertronix. They have one of the best service departments I have ever dealt with.
 
(quoted from post at 18:23:33 01/04/10) I installed a Pertronix ignition on my Skid Steer about a month or more ago. I used their flamethrower 3-ohm coil and all seemed fine at the time. In fact it was running great back when it was warm! Haven’t really used it since then. It just has a little Wisconsin V4HD engine in it by the way.
Yesterday I need it because my diesel tractor gelled up and we got about a foot of snow and I needed the skid steer as a backup to dig out.
It started initially but was pretty sluggish which I attributed to the cold. Usually it warms up in a few minutes and is fine but it seemed to get worse and eventually seemed like only 2 cylinders were firing. I limped it back to the barn and found that pulling the plug wires off either or both of two of the cylinders had little effect while doing the same on the other two made it die or nearly die. Also noticed that the spark would jump at least a half-inch on the two good cylinders while barely noticeable on the two weak cylinders. The plugs are new and I set them to .035” I replaced the cap & rotor today since I saw some moisture underneath. None of that helped the situation however and I’m getting frustrated. I guess I can replace the wires next unless somebody has another idea what the problem might be. Couldn’t really see any sparks leaking from the wires in the dark but doesn’t mean there isn’t.
I finally got the tractor started after replacing the filters and bleeding the whole system so I’m not desperate at the moment but it is still snowing.
Tim
WWW.TIMWAFER.COM
Click to expand...
could be way off base, but "good spark on 2 & nearly no spark on other 2" sure doesn't sound like a EI module problem, but a spark distribution problem. Kinda brings to mind an old song, "Lookin for......in all the wrong places'.
 
Yeah except when EI dies it completely dies. I can usually file the points and adjust them enough to get them running. They dont last forever. I know people who have them and they only last a couple of years but there are those that last alot longer. Got an old john deere 60 with a pile of hours on it and it starts every cold morning in wisconsin with points ingnition although JDs always and easy starting tractor.
 
I used to think the same thing and repeated that line until one fellow said "Oh yeah, show me how you fix a shorted condenser or shorted coil with your pliars and screw driver you carry under the seat?" I had to admit, he was dead on right . LOL ;-)
 
(quoted from post at 00:43:05 01/05/10) I used to think the same thing and repeated that line until one fellow said "Oh yeah, show me how you fix a shorted condenser or shorted coil with your pliars and screw driver you carry under the seat?" I had to admit, he was dead on right . LOL ;-)
Click to expand...
f course, a condenser and a coil are just about as reliable as a piece of wire. :roll:
 
Some Wisconsin engines are odd-fire... the cam lobes in the distributor are NOT evenly spaced. They use a rotor with a WIDE "arm" so the arm is near a high-tension terminal on the cap for both firing intervals.

I suspect you have a mis-match of ignition unit/rotor/distributor cap.

It's probably been that way since you installed the "miracle unit", but has enough spark to the two "weak" terminals to fire in good weather, and doesn't fire so well in crappy conditions.
 
Transistor ignition was forced on car makers by the FEDS.Lets hear it from owners who have had solid state ignition crap the bed.My friend had a failure on the road, cost 300 bucks to fix.My 48 Ford broke a point spring, cost me 3.50 for new points at the Ford garage.My uncle picked up the points for me, I changed them on the road side.My 77 chevy died in the driveway, module died.Talked with a fellow who lost 3 modules in his Ford pickup.Ford still has some lawsuits from the familes of people who died because of rear ended accidents on inter state highways.Ford moved the modules from the fender to the distributor body to save money.On my truck heat was not a factor.Started fine, backed a few feet in the driveway and died.
 
Additional Info.
There was no ballast resistor originally or currently so don’t believe that to be a factor. It’s in an old Thomas 1200G skid steer. I agree that it doesn’t sound like the Pertronix module itself but I’m just running out of ideas here. I’m going to replace the wires next but am not overly hopeful at this point. Possibly due to how my whole weekend went however! Maybe it’s a sign of how the New Year will shape up! Hope Not!

Allan
You mention a good solid ground. What exactly are you saying should be grounded?

Tim
 
a bad coil would plauge an EI as well.. perhaps even smoke it if it was a shorted primary.

As for the condensor.. as cheap as they are.. you could carry one in the tool box.. heck.. old coil too.. that's like 16$ of spares.. vs the big price of an EI.

soundguy
 
I have a spare condenser and coil in the shop.Very few people have a 100 buck module spare on hand.You could lose a good crop of hay in the time it took to find a new module.
 
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