How do I get my attic lights up to code ?

IHC Red · Apr 25, 2010

The previous owner of my home had some lights rigged in the attic in my garage. The garage has a retractable stairs and the wires aren't stapled or anything.

Can I just staple the wires to the webs ?

Or, do I need to put some solid conduit !?!

Do I need a steel box for the switch box (which can be seen on the right side of the second picture) ?

Anything else I need to know... thanks in advance.

noncompos · Apr 25, 2010

I hope that light is further away from both the particle board and the 2x4?? than it looks from the pic, especially if there"s sap beading out of that too-new looking lumber...is the garage attached to the house, or close enough to catch??
Seriously, what you need, if you"re going to have to pass an inspection anytime, including your insurance agent checking around, is whatever your local codes require and/or local practice allows...
Otherwise, whatever doesn"t allow the light or wiring to create any hot spots that could eventually ignite, if light forgotten and left on etc. (Looks like some of my work, except I never have any of the shiny new wire...).

bo · Apr 25, 2010

Just call the code guy and have him come and tell you what to do. I know...you don't want him in there but he'll be in there passing on it some time.
I did some plumbing and the code guy was very helpful. Told me exactly what I had to do to have him pass it. I did it and he passed it.

Tom in TN · Apr 25, 2010

IHC Red,

I don't have any idea about the local codes in your area, and it would undoubtedly be a good idea to talk to your electical codes inspector, but if that were my attic in my locale, I would say that it is fine.

You should put some insulated staples in the wires where they are running up the trusses, and you should insure that any splices in the wires are inside work boxes,but other than that, what I can see from the pictures looks okay to me. The PVC boxes are fine, they shouldn't need to be metal.

It looks to me like the light fixture is attached to a roof rafter, not to the decking. That's good. If you feel uncomfortable with the location of the light fixture due to its close proximity to the decking or to a rafter, just move it over onto an upright support.

I doubt that you have a big problem, just do what is logically safe and correct and you'll be fine.

At least, that's my opinion based on what I can see from the pictures.

Tom in TN

Janicholson · Apr 25, 2010

The bulb should be 10 inches away from wood or wires other than those feeding the box the fixture is mounted on. The porcelin fixture is is screwed into a connection box is it not? If not it must be (plastic, or metal octagonal box with strain relief) Staple the wires to the king post sa they go up, every 12 inches at that buisy location is good. Then as the inspector, (show him/her a photo of the system as fixed up, and see if there is anything wrong. Jim

Kirk Grau · Apr 25, 2010

If you are asking does that mean somebody told you it was incorrect. If so, and it matters for some reason (home inspection, insurance agent, etc.), I would ask them what is required to make them happy.

As others say, from the pictures it does not look awful. The floppy wire should be stapled, and review the location of the porcelain fixture. Might mount the fixture on a post of the truss or span the trusses with a 2x to give yourself a good mounting location. Looks like you probably have enough play in the wiring to move it 6-10 inches in any direction.

Good Luck,

Kirk

JDemaris · Apr 25, 2010

Code is based on when the work was done, not necessarily the version of code being used presently in your area. Open knob and tube wiring is still allowed in attic spaces, according to current code as long as it hasn't been installed recently.

I'd staple the wires on the non-metallic (NM)cable and not worry about it. If you want to be in full compliance, buy Richter's $12 code handbook. And then, make sure you don't live in an area that requires insulated staples (if you're worried about full compliance).

El Toro · Apr 25, 2010

Just tidy up the wires, the switch box looks ok.
PS: I have 2 floodlights one at each end of the attic and a separate pull lamp just over the pull
down stairway. Hal

Denny 5 · Apr 25, 2010

I dont see many problems with your attic. Your romex should be supported every 4 1/2 feet and within 12 inches of every box. It looks like you have a plastic switch box and that is fine. If you are uncomfortable with the incandescent light being close to the wood framing you could replace with one of the newer screw in type florescent which burn much cooler. Other than these minor things you look good to go.

Mike (WA) · Apr 25, 2010

I think we all envy you- you apparently have very little to worry about. Many folks would love to be in your position.

I have lights in my attic, but can't enumerate where my concerns about code compliance of them would come in, in the overall scheme of things, other than "last".

John (Ohio) · Apr 25, 2010

I thought I would chime in here. It appears as if there are holes drilled through the trusses with the romex running through. Engineered trusses aren't to be drilled, if they are they have to be repaired because of the weakening of the truss.
Hope this helps,
John

IHC Red · Apr 25, 2010

>> Engineered trusses aren't to be drilled

That bothers me too. How would you repair though !?!

How do I get my attic lights up to code ?

IHC Red

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noncompos

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bo

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Tom in TN

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Janicholson

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Kirk Grau

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JDemaris

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El Toro

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Mike (WA)

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