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starting fluid

T

tomNE

Member
who has the most potent stuff? most is so weak that it takes 1/2 can to fire anything up.
I even tried buying straight from CaseIH and it wasn't any better.
 
Are you sure it's the starting fluid's fault? I'd be wondering about the condition of the engine you're trying to start.

Glenn F.
 
Glenn, i'm not having trouble starting anything, I use the fluid to inflate tires every once in awhile. (as a last resort) this new stuff just burns, basicly making it worthless!
 
2 weeks ago my brother-in-law was doing the starting fluid and tire trick and did nt get his hand back fast enough and cut the end of his finger off !! Watched a guy doing it a few yrs. ago and he could nt find his lighter after he did it , we found it in the tire !!
 
private or business there is safe ways to inflate tires, not by carelessly endangering yourself and others by having no respect for safety. that is just plain stupid and would not be tolerated , and you would have no job either. not to mention the business would be sued . your playing with a bomb. accidents are caused by shortcuts.it is even crazy to advertise what your doing in the case someone else will get hurt doing your stunts.
 
Common sense perveils . I got buddy lost 3 fingers at fist knuckle . idiot ! I been doing it 30 yrs , always use stick to hold match , and lil ether goes long ways .
 
i noticed too that the starting fluid doesnt seem to have the oomph it used to. barely a whiff would be all you needed to get a old motor started, now you can throw half a can at it before they go.
 
I like those ignitors for lighting grills! I can always tell when someone has never done it, they are always worried to death.
 
I haven't had any trouble. I think ACE is the brand I use but wont' swear to it...
I do like to bore the nozzle out with a 1/16" drill so it puts some liquid out for the purpose of what you're doing. Leave a lead out over the wall, chuck the stem and throw the match...

Rod
 
the 80% stuff from jd used to be good, local stores sell pyroil and it is ok, Case sf has a fine nozzle that would be great for painting but not worth much if the intake is aways away, I tried reaming out the hole without much luck. Sooner or later someone will start on a rant about it's use, the key is moderation. We have had dsl's on this farm since the 60's, mostly Cases a few Olivers a white along with out combines and haven't wrecked anything yet, when it's cold in Mn we try to plug stuff in but once in awhile they need a shot.
 
I won't touch the tire thing... All I will say is saw it done many times.. and I'm a little nuts, but not crazy.

To answer the original question: I am always being told that the JD ether is better than most.. more potent. I'm sure someone will argue it, but don't care.. can just go by what I am told (I think the last can I got from JD said something like 83% ether? I could be wrong though.. it has been a few years now)

Brad
 
Poor guy. No one taught him how to do it correctly. Squirt a little bit in the tire and then run a trail onto the side of the tire. Throw a match on the side of the tire, not into the tire. Then you have a little fire on the side of the tire and acts like a wick,and follows the trail to the inside of the tire. If the tire is too tight to the rim sometimes, you just kick the tire to open up a little space inside of the tire. Then it will explode and seat the bead. If the temp. is below zero the fluid won't explode, it just burns.
 
You got something wrong with your tractor , No matter what brand in the rainbow of colors , all should start or at least fire in zero temps with a sniff of ether ... STOP KIDDING YOURSELF AND FIND THE PROBLEM, headgasket, lift pum ,injectors , or injector pump , timing , valves setting , the more i learn from this forum and HARDKNOX SCHOOL makes me ralize i have bought too much ether over the years , and no telling how much it has cost me in premature wear and tear .NOW I AM A firm believer in working glow plugs ,block heaters of all kinds , and a nice healthy pull from a gasser,, my 2 cents
 
What kind of crude hack uses ether?
In cold weather plug in the block heater.
If the engine won't start in warm weather.It's because some nut smashed the rings with ether.The engine is completly worn out, the ijectors/pump require service. Or the cranking speed is too slow.
 
Lighting one end of a page from a news paper rolled the long way works well also. It gives an added level of comfort to an already tense situation. Kind of like the old saying goes "Poor people have poor ways".
 
Dear Mr. Buick and Deere. I use either on ocasion so I guess I guess I am a crude hack, maybe you ought to stop and look at my machinery before you make your usual opiniated statements. Evidently you have never been around a 42/44/4630 jd they wouldn't hardly start without some. JI Case has offered either kits since they started making diesels evidently they weren't too worried about voiding warranties. I am an experienced mech. and understand cylinder pressure, valve protrusion, cranking speed and the general condition of the engine in how it affects cold starting. Yes it can be hard on engine parts but a little common sense and moderation goes along way.
 
Stop and take time to read on a can of starting fluid the next time you are where they sell it to see what is in it.

It is not the old ether starting fluid. I am not sure they even sell the ether starting fluid any more.
 
When the hummers came out (and the chevy pickuos with diesel motors for the military, we were forbidden to use ether. A rag soaked in mogas and held over the iar intake did the trick though.

Dave
 
(quoted from post at 06:31:17 05/20/10) thanks for the replys! I will try making the nozzle bigger to get more liquid into the tire.
Click to expand...

Guess I should've read the earlier posts...... I get 99 cent thrust and use it for everything. Got a 4 day pass once on a bet that I could mount 60 tires in a day. Skake well and get the gas in the tire, make a liquid trail to the tread (hold closer) and flic your bic. Next bet was who could set a tire with the most PSI up front. That got a little dangerous :shock:

Dave
 
My father had a 4230 that wouldn't start.
Instead of taking the "easy quick" solution. I tore into the electrical system and found the voltage drops.
How about solving the problem instead of treating the symptoms?
The engine wailed right over and would start at 32F without ether or being plugged in. With 10.9V at the starter.
Previously with barely 8V at the starter, the engine would barely fire at 50-60F. Try as we might the only way to get a chassis return path to the starter was with a cable. Couldn't make the circuit through the castings.
Put the 5KW Denso or the new Delco Remy 44MT starter on there. New diesel cables and bateries instead of walmart components. And throw the ether away.
Have you ever seen and heard tell of a block heater for winter starting? About 1/4 of the people here are absolutly startled at the concept of pre-heating the engine with electricity.
 
I ain't say'n do it, just say'n I hear that works too. :)

Tobacco wagons we use here are made out of oil field pipe and set all summer long till August. Most every one has a wasp nest in it some where. I have been told a good squirt of start'n fuid in the pipe then a wadded up news paper stuck in the hole then lit works good to get rid of them. :)
 
We're seating beads on tires here, not starting tractors... Get with the program, guys!

I'm all for personal responsibility. If you want to do it, and you lose a knuckle or the tire blows up in your face, that's all on you. If you hurt someone else standing by, that's all on you too.

Unfortunately, "starting fluid" has less and less ether in it all the time due to EPA regulations, some has none at all. The JD stuff used to have the most ether, but apparently they've backed off too.
 
1982-1986 Forage Harvesters 5830 w/ 6-466 Eng. 12 5.0 AR46886 028000-3811 9702800-381

Bolt this onto any slow turning JD Waterloo with 2/00 cables and a pair of group 31 batteries.Run the chassis return cable to the starter stud. Now to the frame or sheet metal somewhere.
 

B&D is way better at assuming he's smarter than everyone else than he is at reading the complete post....

Wonder what kind of a crude hack doesn't read the whole thread????
 
Yeah... Lots of people complain about that. It's a common thing... and I believe your original lecture was related to that, which had absolutely nothing to do with the question posed in the original thread.
He was simply looking for some good ether to blow some tires; nothing more, nothing less.

Rod
 
Brake Cleaner works as well, can't remember if it was the Non Chlorinated one or not. Just make sure to be outside and don't breathe it.

For some of us these are the only ways to get the bead set when out on the trail.

Also I have noticed some stores sell cans named starting fluid and some sell ether, the starting fluid seems to be even weaker.
 
Nah, brake cleaner used to work. Since some poor bugger barbecued himself, they took the fire out of brake cleaner. Around here NAPA doesn't even put it out on the shelf. Have to ask for it as it's hidden behind the counter... but it still won't burn. Tried. Won't work.

Rod
 
Also forgot to mention there is a thing called tire soap that is cheap. It has the consistency of grease but is soap. It is meant to be diluted with water but if you use without diluting it:

You set the center of the rip up off the ground, get the back bead squished and down so only the front bead needs to be set. Then put the soap all around the rim to seal the gap between the tire and rim.

Slowly fill up the tire from the valve stem, and let the soap work. Sometimes you have to add more soap where the air leaks at.

The slower you put air in it, the better chance you have of the bead pushing all the soap up and then you can scoop it off. You don't want it inside the tire.

I just did 6 tires this weekend this way instead of the ether method as they were for a friend. I didn't want to ruin some new tires. I picked the soap up at Gemplers.
 
Murphy's soap works if they're fairly close... Bead chetah's are also great sometimes, but there's just those times where a big explosion is needed to seat a tire.
I had a 8-14 trailer tire installed last summer at a tire shop and they must have shot it 20 times with a bead chetah and it still wouldn't take. They finally put a tube in to get it going. The tube blew as tubes do in those things within a week. One good shot of ether set those beads...
I just installed one this morning on the trailer for that matter. One good spray around the circumference of the tire from a bored nozzle on a can of ACE starting fluid, air chuck on the stem.... lit with the torch. WOOOOMMMMPPPPHHH. Nothing to it.

Rod
 
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