Cross Hyd dual spool valve???

MNGB

Well-known Member
Hi All, I have a question about a Cross dual spool hyd valve wnet to install it on my tractor as a replacement and promptly blew a hyd hose oiling me and the tractor. Anyway I removed the valve to check it out and using air found that no air will flow from the inlet port to the outlet port the spools work as they should, so I removed a large plug on the side of the valve just ahead of the outlet port and air flow freely putting the plug in about half way and air flows out the outlet all the way in and it stops. This plug has an "O" ring next to the hex to seal and about an inch of threads then its necked down to about 1/2" for a 1/4" then enlarges with and "O" ring that seals the area. I'm thinking I could just cut off the extended part and hyd oil will free flow out the outlet port just like the original valve. Will this work any reason I shouldn't cut it off??
Here's what the plug looks like"
HPIM0602.jpg

HPIM0600.jpg

GB in MN
 

Almost looks like you can pull that center portion with the o-ring right on out of the plug. I think it is set up for closed center now and if you can pull that center out it will be for open center which you apparently have from your descriptions of problem.
 
How many ports are there on the outlet side? Is this a closed center plug? Is it a plug for power-beyond and you are incorrectly plumbed? I have a Cross book somewhere but have not done this stuff for 10 years. I used to be more familiar with Gresen, same idea and I would ask the same questions. Does the valve have its own relief valve? What is it set at? Points to ponder. J.
 
Ok I wrote down the only number on it and then forgot it at the shop but I think it was 1Z0202, I was also wondering if it was for a closed center system and I need an open center, as for ports there is an inlet port 4 spool ports (2 levers) and an outlet port the ports are labeled, in, out, A B C D, the large plug I think was marked BYP not sure of that of the plug. The plug is one piece so it would have to be cut off or a short plug installed.
GB in MN
Thanks Guys for the replies
 
(quoted from post at 17:37:00 01/19/11)
Almost looks like you can pull that center portion with the o-ring right on out of the plug. I think it is set up for closed center now and if you can pull that center out it will be for open center which you apparently have from your descriptions of problem.

Pete, for Cross they sell the different plugs for them as well. Surpluscenter.com may have them? Got my Cross 3 spool from Northern Hydraulics (now Northern Tool) and optioned it for open center at the time.
 
That is a "closed center" plug in the picture. Should be stamped C C one the outside. Yes you can cut the plug off at the shoulder and make it an "open center" but you also must change the part on the left side next to the spool valves to open center too. That part should have an adjustable screw covered with an acorn nut.
 
Thankyou Big M, yes there is an acron nut on the inlet side what do I need to do the the adjustable screw under the acorn nut?
GB in MN
 
I have used a lot of the cross valves and I just cut the plug off and go on. On some of them and as you didn't show the whole valve, I am unsure of which one it is,I have had to change my discharge or return port and that fixed it. You might want to try plugging the current return and put it into the port that the plug your showing came out of and then check it with your air. But you can cut that one off and it will work fine if you like. LarryT
 
[qu
ote="LarryT"](reply to post at 20:00:12 01/19/11) [/quote]
Depending on where the valve is plumbed into the hyd system,(open center) you may want to add the power beyond sleeve option and 3rd hose. If the valve is located upstream of more hydraulic functions,(3 pt., aux. hyd remotes, or other features) and you do not add this feature, the valve will eventually start to leak at the spools. The hyd fluid will back up inside the loader valve, push the spool o-rings out against the back-up washers and bend the handle bracket causing the leak. Plumbing the loader valve downstream of everything, i.e. into the remotes at rear of tractor does not require this extra bit of expense. The screw under the acorn nut is the relief valve and can be set with a 3000 psi hyd guage by backing the screw out and screwing it in slowly to desired setting. Usually a depending on tractor, loader, cylinder, hoses, tractor hyd relief valve setting, 2000-2500 psi. Very few new loaders are plumbed properly because of the extra cost in power beyond. But it is well worth the extra effort in ease of operation and cleanliness. Freeing up the remote is worth the expense in itself.
 
Thanks much guys, this is good information, I did find and have it saved a PDF Cross manual for the valve and indeed it is a closed center valve as it is set up but changing to open center can be easily done and yes I now know about the pressure relief valve under the acorn nut. Should have it up and going in a day or 2.
GB in MN
 

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