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Stuck Wheel

B

bbole

New User
I am trying to pull a rear wheel on a 1935 I-12 McCormick. It is STUCK! I have a 2x2x1/4 angle with a grade 8 x 1" nut and 1" fine all thread pusher on the axle. 3/4" all thread through the wheel to the angle. 3/4 impact wrench hasn't broken it loose. Have used heat, WD-40 and blaster. The other side popped off easily.
Any suggestions?
 
Does your wheel have the split in the rim with two bolts that clamp the wheel to the axle??? If it does then remove the bolts completely and then take a long tapered chisel and drive it into the split. Use one on each side to spread the wheel.
 
You just can't give up, keep on keeping on. Hit it hard, with a big hammer! Heat it hot! hit it hard! Vic
 
I would heat it up red hot if possable and then run cold water on it till it is cool and then pull it off. The shock of the cold water does wonders.
Bob
 
The whole idea of heating it is to expand it to loosen any rust. Pouring water on it when it's real hot is a good way to ruin it. Dave
 
Heat is good, WD40 is a waste, PB Blaster is good. I am a firm believer in applying candle wax as it cools...it seeps into the two parts, and helps to release tension. BTDT with numerous head bolts and others. OK to come back tomorrow to wrench on it.
 
Yes Dave you have a valid point BUT I have heated some bolts up and when you were turning them out they striped right off,but when you heat them up and cool them fast you shock them and they loosen up. Why don't you try it sometime just to see if it will work. I also agree with the candle wax that does work also.
Bob
 
Heat is your friend. If you're not using an acetylene torch, find one. (I do not subscribe to the theory that heating, then cooling works better than just plain heat.)
 
A propane torch and a can of WD-40 make a great flamethrower. Nice for fending off vampires and zombies, but not much good for removing rusted parts.

For a big cast piece you need a LOT of heat. You might need a big oxy-acetylene rosebud to get the heat needed.
 
Thanks for all of your input. The wheel on the I-12 is a solid casting on a splined axle. I think that I need more heat. I could get it hot but not cherry red.
 
I loosened the rear wheel hub clamp bolts on my 4430. Didn't break loose the hub right away, so kind of forgot about it. The wife wasn't very happy when the wheel fell off in the hay field. Fortunately, didn't ruin any parts-- or a marriage!
 
If I need to get a stuck bolt out, I heat the area around the bolt to expand it, not the bolt itself. About the worst bolts to remove are the bottom bolts that hold the rollers on a Cat. I had to weld nuts on about 6 of them twice and still had to drill a couple out. I did try pouring water on the bolt to try and shrink it. Made no difference. I didn't care if I had to replace the bolts. In the case of this tractor, I think he wants to reuse all the parts. Dave
 
Wow, kinda makes you wonder how many people have seen a I12.

I assume your working with a wheel like on this Fairway12

5232371181_c62a48e83f_z.jpg


I had to chain a W30 with concrete filled cutoff rims, sideways to dads 4 wheel drive case and pull the rim off with another tractor. Tricky part was hooking the chains to the wheel, blocked the tractor up after tightening the chains to the 4X4, and she popped right off.
 
36F30:
That is the wheel type that I am working on. I know that it is going
to come off but not without a fight.
 
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