Valuable lesson learned.. Gaskets

Today I put a new front oil seal in my Farmall C. Not hard but you have to remove many parts to get to it. Got all new gaskets for everything I took off. Got her all back togather and it drips oil from the front cover. (new gasket) drips anti freeze from top and bottom water brackets (new gaskets)and bolts tighted correctly. Now tomorrow back apart and coat high temp. gasket goo on all of them , reassemble and hope for the best. I had everything cleaned but the gaskets seamed paper thin to me.
 
a thin coat of cartridge grease applied to both
sides of gasket it the best sealer since sliced
bread,,, + it's alott eaiser to work with when
ya gotta go back in.....
 
Use a larger mill file and draw file (hold in both hands & push-pull at 90° to the file) across the metal gasket surfaces to completely get rid of the old gasket material. You are not re-shaping the surface, just cleaning, so use the file with care. This also highlights any high spots that may need additional attention.
 
I put bolted the cover on loosely ,pressed the pulley on slowly and carefully. Then finished tightening the bolts.
 
I have the worst luck with dry gaskets. Even with both surfaces clean and dry, everything run in by hand first then snugged in an opposing pattern... Still leaks.

I have taken to buying quality gaskets, then smearing a sheen of import gray gasket sealer on both surfaces, then installing. If done this way, disassembly is a chore and always ruins the gasket. If something needs to be disassembled, then I only coat one side. It may seep, but thats the cost. Seals get tapped in with gray RTV around the outside (thin) then the inside gets greased before assembly. I still get the odd damp gasket but much better results than the dry gasket. Head gaskets get coated with the copper spray.

Hope it works better for ya tomorrow.

Aaron
 
I mostly use aviation gasket maker(smear it on with the brush,sticky,never hardens)on both metal surfaces,gasket in between.
On tin covers(oilpan,timing cover and valve covers)i use only black RTV silicone,no gasket.clean surface with brakeclean and apply.It works wonders.
 
I prefer to eliminate every gasket that I can, and use silicone glue. Cleanliness is absolutely essential in using silicone. Just my preference.
 
I was working on a Pinto once and couldn't get the oil pan to seal. Straiten the rails clean every thing no matter what just wouldn't seal. I got disgusted and put a 1/8" bead of blue permatex around it, no gasket, and it sealed perfect. Now about the only gasket I use is the head, intake, and exhaust. The rest blue permatex, let it half set up and assemble. Makes like putting in an o-ring.
 
Almost every time I ever had a leak I found a chunk of gasket or a piece of dirt or a wire stuck somewhere that I missed.It sure doesn't hurt to put a thin layer of silicon on a gasket.Ive done it lots of times.But both sides have to be clean and also look for cracks,gouges and scraped places on the sealing surfaces.
If you do put a thin layer of silicon on a gasket,you have to watch that it doesn't slide out when you tighten it.Actually you may be better off to just use silicon if its a real thin flimsy paper gasket.If it tries to slide out,and you don't catch it,then you will have a leak.
 
the surfaces have to be clean and flat any nicks will be trouble,I had a coolant pump give me fits till i spotted a small gouge on it that was enough to allow the gasket to blow out scotch bright pads work well they will remove old gasket material but wont mess up the surfaces
 

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