Whatever you do, DON'T SPIN THE CRANK. Each cylinder of that engine is nearly as big as an ENTIRE VW Beetle engine!! If it kicks backward and you are pushing down, you will break your arm for sure. The impulse coupling is what provides a hot spark, by spinning the magneto just after the piston goes over TDC. AND BE SURE YOU SET that impulse if it is a manual type. If you don't, the engine will fire before TDC and you will get a kickback (if you are pulling up, you probably won't get hurt if you don't have your face down near the crank and if you don't keep your arm in a position so the crank can come around and hit it). Originally, this tractor had a manually-operated impulse, but I think that in the 30s, IHC put on magnetos with automatic impulse couplings. Many of the oldtimers had their mags replaced by either later types (like an F-4, which was an easy adaptation, or something made by another company, like Fairbanks-Morse or Bosch). The later mags might have automatic impulses. If you can't see the impulse coupling, you can hear it "clink, clink" as the pawl drops into the notch in the drive coupling. If you don't hear the clinking sound as you are beginning the upward pull, stop and find out why there is no sound. The pawl needs a little lubrication to work well. It can also stick if it hasn't been used in a long time.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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