Fixing my tire... Any suggestions.

I dont wanna spend the money, but I dont want my left tire breaking and killing me either.

What does a used rim and/or tire with decent tread left go for? My tires have about 75% tread, but they are weather checked something fierce. What color where the rims originally, right now they are like an off white color.

Not sure after seeing this damage, if I want to put Calcium Choride back in them =(

Maybe if I dont feel like messing with it, I'll drain the fluid and just fill it with air and see if it leaks, if It dont, just let it go.

1. Drain the fluid. Lower the tractor down to squeeze the fluid out of the tube faster.
2. Break the bead. Having the rim mounted on the tractor, you now have something solid to whale against with the BFH.
3. Remove the tire using tire irons, or "spoons" depending on who you talk to. Outside bead first, then pull the tube, then pry the tire the rest of the way off.
4. If the area around the valve stem hole is too far gone, you need a new rim. Get one locally. There HAS to be a tire shop in the area that does tractor tires, that can get you a rim. Just tell them that you need one for a Farmall H and they will know. If they don't, find a different place. I believe it's a "drop center" type, but not sure of the width. FYI, a "double bevel" rim has two bevels.

I'm kind of against hanging weights on the back as its murder on the axle bearings. Wheel weights are a consideration if I could find them cheap.

jimmy

Maybe I can use the calcium chlirde to kill the grasss for my track. Doesnt sound harmful to the well, as it should breakdown naturally as its a fairly simple compound. I will look into its hazards online tonight. My main issue is not breaking the bead, altho that might be hard. It is a tubed tire. My concern is damaging the rim while removing the tire from the rim. Moreso hurting the paint job afterwards.

I will most likely have to buy a new tube, and I've heard they are around 40$.

One way I might be able to circumvent tir removal is to just let the tire "float" on the rim and support the rin underneath and do the wire brushing that way. Not sure how much clearnce I can get. Then I could cover the tire and paint the rim, then flip it over and do the other side. This would totally eliminate the need to remove the tire from the rim. Unless I can remove the tire without using metal tire spoons on the rim, I wont take it off, as putting them back on without harming the paint job seems impossible.

Jim, what does that beet juice cost? I wonder if this calcium chloirde is worth anything to anybody? I've heard of people trading the stuff at the farm shop for the cost of mounting and stuff, not sure.

I have one of them drill pumps, but it is a POS. I will look at mennards for one of their shop source ones, they comes with warranties on most of their nonexpendable stuff for 2 years. drill bits with 2 year warranty, wire brush cup with 2 year warranty, cant beat that.

Clean the rim with aggressive wire brush/sand blast, bead blast. CHECK FOR THIN SPOTS. Rims need to be sound, and rusted areas reinforced with welded in metal on the inside if possible, or brazing in the pits with attention to thickness is OK as well. I would go with the beet juice others are using used autoantifreeze, but it is also toxic to animals and not environmentally friendly.

Getting the bead broken on the rusty rim may be tough, I have had luck using a bottle jack (chained down) under a heavy vehicle to break the bond but care is in order. They are a hassle. The Rim will be pretty specific to your 300U. JimN

Gene