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Stupid Question

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Jeff In Ontario

05-23-2004 17:31:00




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I feel kinda dumb asking this, but my H has a 10 yr old paint job (faded)and paint refinisher's and conditioners don't work on it so I need to repaint it. I have sanded my hood, grille, and gas tank right down to metal and primed it; my question is, with the rest of the tractor i don't really want to sand it all down (too much time) so how much to i really have to do? Can i get away with scuffing the old paint up a bit with sandpaper? Thanks for any help fella's ---Jeff

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farmallman

05-24-2004 17:13:19




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 Re: Stupid Question in reply to Jeff In Ontario, 05-23-2004 17:31:00  
Like I said before: "Whenever you want to ask a question to learn something, it is never a dumb question"



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Mac

05-24-2004 12:17:32




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 Re: Stupid Question in reply to Jeff In Ontario, 05-23-2004 17:31:00  
Use "Scotchbrite" scouring pads and high strength mix of laundry detergent and hot water. Scuffs paint as you clean grease etc. Good results and quick.



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Buzzman72

05-24-2004 05:31:13




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 Re: Stupid Question in reply to Jeff In Ontario, 05-23-2004 17:31:00  
In years gone by, before the EPA classified Anything and Everything as hazardous to your health, my dad used to regularly paint Farmalls. He'd take the hood, gas tank, and grille down to bare metal, and then spray it with the genuine IH paint (2150, I suppose...we just knew it by the part number and "Harvester Red"). The REST of the tractor was steam cleaned with an old (WWII era or before) kerosene-fired steam jenny, using a lye-based product known as "49-S Compound." The 49-S would remove grease, dirt, grime, gunk, old loose paint...and occasionally was used around the shop to clear out stopped-up toilets (I don't recommend that, because it's too hard on the pipes). After the 49-S had a chance to do its magic, the tractor was rinsed with plain water to dilute/neutralize any residual 49-S, and the tractor was gone over with a putty knife and a wire brush to remove any loose paint that hadn't already flaked off. Then, when the tractor was dry, it was ready to mask and paint.

Remember, this WASN'T for a show tractor; this was for tractors that were about to be used once the paint was dry...so if it had a shine from across the field, up to 10 feet away, and the sheet metal looked pretty, that was usually "good enough" for the farmers involved.

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Ty

05-23-2004 18:12:35




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 Re: Stupid Question in reply to Jeff In Ontario, 05-23-2004 17:31:00  
I would scuff it and then spray it. Primer I only use on bare metal or if I need to paint a light color over a darker color. It should turn out nice.



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Jeff In Ontario

05-23-2004 17:33:37




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 Re: Stupid Question in reply to Jeff In Ontario, 05-23-2004 17:31:00  
Part #2 (which i forgot)! Do i need to re-prime over the old paint or can i just spray over with 2150 IH paint?? Thanks! ---Jeff



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CNKS

05-23-2004 18:27:01




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 Re: Re: Stupid Question in reply to Jeff In Ontario, 05-23-2004 17:33:37  
At the very least: Clean it good, and sand it, and use epoxy primer. The epoxy will act as a sealer and seal the old paint, whatever it is so that it won't lift the new. This will work only if the old paint is in good condition. I know you have already primed the sheet metal, but epoxy would have been best for that too. IH did not use primer, but their paint did not last long either.



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nebraska cowman

05-23-2004 18:17:43




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 Re: Re: Stupid Question in reply to Jeff In Ontario, 05-23-2004 17:33:37  
I don't even prime over bare metal. Those tractors wern't primed when new either.



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andy b.

05-23-2004 19:20:38




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 Re: Re: Re: Stupid Question in reply to nebraska cowman, 05-23-2004 18:17:43  
i would tend to agree with nebraska cowman (as that is pretty much how i paint old tractor items). i don't have anything that i painted more than two years ago, but all of it is holding up nicely. this is with factory paint.
if you are going with automotive paint, i would highly recommend following the paint manufacturer's directions for priming and surface prep. $40/gal. tractor paint is much different than $200/gal. automotive paint.

andy b.

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dhermesc

05-24-2004 08:16:20




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Stupid Question in reply to andy b., 05-23-2004 19:20:38  
I painted my 350 with IH red from Van Syckle, that was about 4 years ago - tractor still looks extremely good - but then its kept in a shed. Wet sanded most of the old paint off to get it smooth (had a brush paint job from the 60s). My only regret was that I didn't use a hardner. 4 years later it has cured hard for the most part. Only used primer (rattle can) on the spots where I sanded through. Wet sanding took a long time but the finish I got looked great.

Not counting my labor I ended up with a $90 in the paint job that looks better then some $600 jobs that guys have paid a local shop for.

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CNKS

05-23-2004 19:28:35




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Stupid Question in reply to andy b., 05-23-2004 19:20:38  
I use automotive paint. Case-IH 2150 is better than the tractor store junk, and if I ever use it, I'm darn sure going to use epoxy primer first. I strip everything to bare metal anyway, as I have no use for cheap paint jobs.



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Ken

05-23-2004 19:17:49




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 Re: Re: Re: Stupid Question in reply to nebraska cowman, 05-23-2004 18:17:43  
My Farmall C was primed. White primer.



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CNKS

05-23-2004 19:24:31




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Stupid Question in reply to Ken, 05-23-2004 19:17:49  
IH sometimes used a white sealer on the parts that held oil, although I think this was on MD's etc. If the "primer" is on the tin and your C has a serial number of 47010-54411, it is a white demo.



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Geoff NY

05-24-2004 12:35:11




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Stupid Question in reply to CNKS, 05-23-2004 19:24:31  
I have painted a few Farmalls now and they all had some sort of primer. White on newer ones and yellow on older ones. None of em were demos.



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CNKS

05-24-2004 14:11:06




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Stupid Question in reply to Geoff NY, 05-24-2004 12:35:11  
Note that I said "IF the "primer" is on the tin AND the serial is --", I was merely indicating to check the serial number. IH probably started using primer at some point in time. I have a white C that was repainted red. I totally stripped it and repainted it red again. If it did have primer it couldn't be distinguished from the original white paint. I have a 47 M that definitely does not have primer, a 53 Super H that I just did was impossible to tell due to the rust, but I assume no primer. Doesn't really matter, but if a person wants a repaint to last, primer should be used.

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David B

05-24-2004 16:36:04




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Stupid Question in reply to CNKS, 05-24-2004 14:11:06  
I'm about to repaint my 46 B I finished last year. I have a few new parts to put on, and will use an aresol primer. The rest of it, I'll just scuff up with a scuff pad, and paint. First time I painted it, I used IH 2150 red from the dealership, but this time I'll use mixed paint.



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CNKS

05-24-2004 19:09:10




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Stupid Question in reply to David B, 05-24-2004 16:36:04  
You will be better off if you at least use epoxy primer, but, it's up to you. Your mixed paint, if from PPG, DuPont, Sherwin Williams, etc is going to run you $60-$80 per gallon (that's for the "cheap" version) If you are going that route, you might as well do it right. There is no guarantee that your aerosol primer is compatible with your topcoat, either. Another thing -- the more expensive paints are less forgiving as to compatibility, than the cheaper paints, as they are designed to be used as a system (all from the same manufacturer). There is a possibility that the 2150 under your mixed paint will lift it. You don't want to find out! Thus the need for the epoxy primer.

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