Still at the 460

Syptoms:
Starts easy with just a little choke.
Idles fine no choke.
Pull the trottle back and she sputters bad and dies. Move it slow (real slow) and you can get to full throttle but runs rough. Pull the choke out and she smooths out.
With the choke out you can move the trottle at will and as fast as you want. Runs bad at idle with the choke out.
Canot drive the tractor with out the choke out it just sputters and dies.
With choke out it drives nice untill you ad a load then it sputters till you push the clutch in.

Try re-adjusting your valve lash, and do a valve train inpsection. If your valves are out of sync you will not have as much suction especially noticable when you rev the engine up. Valve lash is .027" (hot) for both In & Ex. Also; revisit possible air leaks both at the carb(I have seen the bowl gasket not seal or have a warped bowl on occasion) and the intake manifold with small shots of ether. Done carefully, it is an easy way to rule these areas out (if not already). Just listen for the popping. If this does not send you on your way I would start thinking about pulling the front cover & checking the timing as others have said.

In the field, it didn't matter whether it was 460, 560, 656, 706, 806, etc. the gassers didn't hold candle to the diesels, on either performance or fuel economy. Kelly will find keeping that tractor well tuned and working well, will be an unending task. Now I did tell him to buy a 656 diesel gear drive 3 months ago. He has an H, 300 and 400, I thought were good moves. He was looking at a bit more hp for haying one night on discussions, asking whether it should be 656, 706, 756, etc. I suggested 656 is 6" shorter in wheel base and much more manuverable around the hay field. I had a 560D and a 656D and a IH round baler. I also had a 1066 and a 100 hp Deere that never got started for haying. Mainly because they were hauling down close to $1,500. per day on custom work. Had they or if they were sitting home in the yard, they wouldn't have gone to hayfield, maybe as a backup, but that's all.

Here in Canada we always growled about our government taxing policy on gas and diesel. I think possibly they did us a favour, it did force us to switch to diesel quite quickly. That was one of my biggest surprises coming to YT discussion. I couldn't believe the numbers of 6 cylinder gassers in the US. Money is what it was all about. Great item that money.

Is there anyway to find out what was done to the tractor before you bought it ? The problem could be from a bungled repair i.e. cam timing is off. When you check the valve adjustment, check to see that the rockers are all moving the same amount.

Since pulling the choke out improves the situation, I would still have a look at the carb / fuel system. Can you run it with the air cleaner off ? If so, will it clear up if you spray some gas or carb cleaner into the carb ? If it does, I'd keep on that track. As you have a 'new' carb that acts the same way, I would then lean towards an air leak or low fuel flow.

Greg

First of all I always enjoy your posts because you are never afraid to ask questions.

Next, have you checked your valve adjustment yet? Just because an engine has good compression and that usually indicates that the valves are good doesn't mean they are adjusted properly. If they are too loose it means they are not opening far enough to allow the proper amount of fuel into they cylinder for good combustion and also not evacuating the exhaust enough for clean air to be there for the next cycle. Also while checking the valves, make sure the face of the rocker arm is not badly worn against the valve tips. This can make it nearly impossible to get a good valve setting. You can easily remove the rocker arms and resurface them.

Just my two copper Abe Lincolns.

cdprimm

I agree with Lee.

You've ran at that fuel system until the cows already came home; I really doubt if this is the problem area.

It just smells like the engine can't breath on account of slow timing (even tho you have already set it correctly).

I learned a long time ago, when dealing with a stumble/no power symptom, check valve timing first.

Has someone been in that engine? 'Spose we have some gears misaligned? Or, maybe a slipped dampner?

Allan

My 460 had the pin corrode off that held the spring on the outside of the manifold. Drilled out and put a new pin so the spring could work and that impoved things.

Recalling back in the 460 book, check the governor setting might help too.

Mike