OK, now I am starting to get confused......need he

This new H is confusing me. The serial tag is somewhere around 360000 (can't remember exact off the top of my head) and from that exact # I have found it to be a 51 model. It is a gas, not dual fuel. Well, as some of you may remember this sucker has been heating up intermittantly on me. It has been blowing antifreeze out the top of the radiator. The tractor has a water pump, but it does not have a pressurized radiator (the gas cap is the same size/fit as the radiator cap.). This type of system does not seem to jive with the tractor being a 51. Should have a pressurized system on it, right? What kind of problems am I going to have with a mixed up system? Or is it not uncommon to have this set up?
In my investigation into the cooling problem, I found that the belts were kinda loose. I marked the belts and the pullys and ran er, and the pullys are spinning faster than the belt. Problem is, the set screw that allows you to tighten the belts is busted off (I didn't do it!)
I am afraid to use an extractor in that location, due to prior bad experience with extractors. I really think the belt tension is the problem, because at road speed, she don't heat up a bit, nor spill out any antifreeze. But when I am idling around my property she spits that a/f out through the overflow tube in a constant stream. There is no bubbling in the radiator when it is running. I gotta get this old girl runnin good before it snows heavy...my other H is loaned to my brother in law for the winter to plow with, and the B, well it will move a bunch of snow but it takes a LOOONG time.
Any thoughts? Hope my questions are clear but if not let me know.

Time to get by with it the way it is maybe. I think it would be hard to get hot in the winter, I have to cover my rads to get the tractors warm around 120. If it is cold out 20 or lower.

1st. By hot should not go above 190, I stop my at 200. Belt , maybe put something on it, to make it not slip. Any thing like tar or rubber paint , it doesn't take much, to make it tacky. Put a new belt on, use the gen. or al. to take up the tension. Clean out the cooling system.

Back to removing the bolt (screw) , I think it is a setscrew. Drill and easy out it , or drill and tap it. Should be easy if you can get to it , if you don't have remove the pump.

Make sure you greese the pump, make sure that the end caps are not the setscrew you are trying to loosen, I think there are two ??

Don't feel bad if sound like I've been there done that well I have. If all else falls short before the snow flys, take water with you and wet the rad or throw snow on it. It will cool it down.

Teddy

1 – Are you overfilling the radiator? On my SH and SM if the coolant level with the engine cold is higher than about 1” from the bottom of the filler neck they’ll spit out the extra coolant when the engine heats up.

2 – The belt tension is certainly contributing to the problem - the loose belt causing both the fan and water pump to spin too slow. I had the same problem with the adjustment set screw on my SH (screw snapped off flush with the hub when I tried to loosen it). I got the busted end out by using an arc welder to build up a “nub” on top of the remaining portion of the screw. Then grabbed the nub with vice grips and the busted end turned neatly out. Apparently the heat of welding loosened whatever was holding the screw. Note: I replaced the set screw with a stainless one and coated the threads with Nevr Seez so as to not have the problem again!

Note that both my tractors tend to run hotter - as indicated by the temp gage - at idle than at speed. I presume this is on account of the low air flow thru the radiator at low idle and may be normal?

I got a buddy with a oxy acet torch, I am willing to try that. There is nothing sticking out of the broken off spot to get ahold of...but I will try the small chisel method maybe I will get lucky. My only fear is that I have bouts of clumsiness and can just see myself either takin a chunk out of the pulley or burnin a hole through it with the torch.....maybe I should just break down and drive er down to the local tractor shop. OH how that would pain me....haven't ever paid a dime for service on any of my Farmalls.

I think you are right on track; but you are gonna have to get that adjuster screw handled one way or another. If you can reach in there and turn that fan by hand, you've darned sure found the problem.

Also, make sure the fins on the radiator are clean. 'Bout once a year, I flush it with a garden hose if it is used in heavy, dirty conditions (like a hay field).

Allan

Is the tractor really getting hot as indicated by the gauge or is it just 'spittin' up' at lower speeds? Could be ya just need that pressure cap.

Allan

Thanks for the reply and yep I keep them fins nice an clean too....only takes a couple a minutes and I get a fair amount of vegetation residue in mine pretty quick.

No, the tractor ain't really heatin up too much, just slightly.

I figured to put the pressure cap on it no matter what but can't find a pressure cap that fits my radiator neck. All the caps I find have the tabs in the wrong spot, to grab on to the outside of the filler neck. I need one that grabs on to the inside of the filler neck...know whutta mean?

A reminder, non-pressure H and M still had a water pump, so you may just have an old radiator or old engine. It still should work fine. Have you checked the engine serial number and date code?

To add to what was said before, if the water level is above the core when cold, it has enough water.