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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall 100 Engine Rebuild Questions

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Hobo,NC

11-09-2004 18:14:37




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This is my first Farmall engine rebuild so I gota lot of questions so please bear with me. First off I am a mechanic 30 + years run my own shop and do tractor repairs but automotive work is my bread and butter (if there is such a thing in this line of work) This is the first time I have been caught up in the shop in over 5 years, I run outa customer pay jobs so its time to work on my own stuff. I plan on getting a repair manual when I order the parts. I&T manual if it’s the best for this application ??. This is a farmall 100 that I have had for 15 years I have had trans and wheel problems but have not touched the engine It did smoke alot, it had good OP and good power. The gear on the hydraulic pump got loose and took out the governor , cam and crank gear and hydraulic pump shaft broke,. I had planed on just replace’n these items even had removed them and drilled and tapped the cam so I could pull a new gear on the shaft while the cam was still in the block. I got caught up work’n on otter tractors and never got back to it. Threw the years I have picked up a good hydraulic pump and a used engine complete that had a cracked block and had a knock that turned out to be something on top of a piston that I believe happen when they tried to weld the manifold while it was on the tractor. I got the used engine just for parts if I needed any. It was a deal so I went for it. My 100 is a 56 with a C 123 serial # 17271 and the used one I think came out of a 140 serial # 89768. C 123. I have both engines apart and plan on using the 56,100, block. #1) Would like to know how to replace sleeves. I have replaced sleeves be for. Is this a dry or wet sleeve, how to ya get’em out. #2) The 100 crank has .025 end play and 010 x .010 bearings. The 140 crank has .012 end play and a STD bearings. I have no speck on the shafts and need to check’em so what is the STD spec. #3) will the shafts inter change, I have both crank pulleys for the shafts. #4) will the rods interchange the ones in the 140 engine are in great shape. I plan on install’N sleeves and pistons. #5) the 100 engine pistons has two humps on the top and the 140 had flat top pistons so witch is the better way to go or is their only one way to go since I already have the hump type in the 100 block that I plan to use. #5) both heads look the same to me are they. #6) are the cams the same. #6) enny tips on what I need to watch out for while I am mix’N and swapp’n parts on these engines gonna use the 100 block for sure. Either way I go I am not look’n the get out as cheap as I can I just want to save if I can use some of the parts off the 140 block. I hope the governors are the same Try and learn sum’in in the process and have a engine that will out live me. I have about ¾ acre garden and other tractor’s that will do the hard work so all I will do is cultivate with the 100.
Thanks in advance for enny help, Hobo Rosser , Sanford , NC

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Stan(VA).

11-10-2004 21:15:20




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 Re: Farmall 100 Engine Rebuild Questions in reply to Hobo,NC, 11-09-2004 18:14:37  
Hobo,
Cranks, Yes and No. They will interchange but as you noted, the pulleys are different. The 100 has the press fit, wide belt style, the 140 has a bolt on, narrow belt style, that corresponds to a redesigned water pump setup (the block casting was changed up front). I don't think they (the pulleys) can interchange and still get the pump working.

The rods should interchange.

The sleeves and pistons will not interchange from the 140 to the 100 block, different diameter at the O-ring. This has been covered many times, check the archives.

100 and 140 head/manifolds should interchange, but are different (valves, ports, runners). 140 should flow better, but you will need the 140 air cleaner if the newer manifold is used or the bolts won't line up.
Stan(VA).

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Hobo,NC

11-11-2004 04:59:09




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 Re: Farmall 100 Engine Rebuild Questions in reply to Stan(VA)., 11-10-2004 21:15:20  
I looked at the pulleys last night and saw the difference. I am pertty sure the 100 pulley will work on the 140 shaft. The 140 shaft does have the threaded end and I don’t believe it will inter fear if it does I will make some relief on the 100 pulley. Gotta go back and check the shafts I think the 100 shaft journals are out of round and I am lean’n toward the 140 shaft. So far all I have found is . STD. And .010 bearings.

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Stan(VA).

11-11-2004 05:21:40




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 Re: Farmall 100 Engine Rebuild Questions in reply to Hobo,NC, 11-11-2004 04:59:09  
Most places also offer a .002 bearing. If you have any trouble with the 100 pulley, you might consider opening it up to the same ID as the 140 pulley, then drill and tap to install a set screw to hold it. Some early A & B's had a set screw and locking nut on their front pulleys. Just a thought.
Stan(VA).

PS - Might also want to use the 140 front cover since it has the timing indicator. Just transfer the timing marks from the 140 to the 100 pulley and check for clearance at the timing indicator on the 100 pulley OD.

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stroker88

11-10-2004 19:40:02




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 Re: Farmall 100 Engine Rebuild Questions in reply to Hobo,NC, 11-09-2004 18:14:37  
std rod pin is 1.7490/1.7500 main is 2.1240/2.1250



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ZANE

11-10-2004 05:29:04




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 Re: Farmall 100 Engine Rebuild Questions in reply to Hobo,NC, 11-09-2004 18:14:37  
Hobo the sleeves are wet type sleeves with rubber O ring seals at the bottom of the sleeve where they meet the block and the head gasket seals them at top if my memory serves me right. I worked at an IH dealership from about 1967 through 1970 or so. Getting the sleeves out is like taking candy from a baby compared to the N engine with the dry sleeve. I seem to remember that the bottom of the sleeve protrudes into the crankcase by at least an inch or so and you can use a block of hard wood or brass drift to knock the sleeve up till it is free. Be sure to clean the block where the O rings go and at the top where the lip of the sleeve sits so you don't have any leaks when you go back. Grease the new sleeve seals good and the new sleeves will just slip in easy by hand.

Most of the old IH engines like the one in your 100 came with low compression because most of the older tractors were designed to burn distillate or kerosene etc. and that requires low compression ratio. There were what they called the "super" kits available to use if you planned on using strictly gasoline fuel. This is the reason for the Domed pistons. Usually the sleeve was a little thinner too with increased cubic inch for more compression. I forget the claims for power increase but it did seem to have some effect on power increase.

I wouldn't worry myself about the end play on the crankshaft. This ain't a rocket engine! :O)
I think I would go with the standard crank if it is within tolerances. Not over /002 wear and fairly round. I have never seen a broken crank in an IH tractor.

The front pulley on some of these engines is a chore to get off. Press fit and that's it! Really need a good gear puller that you can clamp around the back of the pulley to pull it off.

That engine was the same basically as the C, H, A and B IH tractors. Probably some others too.

Zane

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Hobo,NC

11-10-2004 06:16:55




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 Re: Farmall 100 Engine Rebuild Questions in reply to ZANE, 11-10-2004 05:29:04  
Thanks Zane, I do plan on using the better shaft but still need the STD spec. Sleeves a piece of cake good Deal. I suspect it has a Supper kit in it will check all this out when I get the sleeves removed and can compare again the 140 engine. the piston for the 140 flat top is 3.125 and the 100 is 3.250. the flattop piston has a continuous skirt, the 100 piston has skirts that or on the sides and no shirt around the risk pin. You can see were the piston has worn around the risk pin, rubbed the sleeve, this may be the nature of the beast with a over bore kit. There is no unusual were in the sleeve in the area of the risk pin. Good thing I went with the rebuild the oil rings are shot, needs a pressure plate and ring gear best I remember is the clutch was weak. The man I got this tractor from said it had more power than a 140 so guess he was rite. The rods do have the same part # on'em

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BillWV

11-10-2004 11:19:02




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 Re: Farmall 100 Engine Rebuild Questions in reply to Hobo,NC, 11-10-2004 06:16:55  
On pulling the wet sleeves...I just pulled the sleeves in my Super C a couple of weeks ago. They were tough. I'd heard that you could set a block of wood on the crank throw and turn with the hand crank to push them out - no go. The I pounded them gently with a 2 lb. shop hammer and wooden drift - split the drift. Then I made a puller which was basically a long bolt with flat metal plates at each end with holes in the middle. The bottom one had a nut welded to it. I inserted the bolt through the top plate, down through the cylinder, then threaded on the bottom plate and arranged it so that it hit the sleeve and didn't touch the cam or block casting. Then inserted some 1" spacers on top of the block, under the top plate. Turned the center bolt until it pulled the sleeve out about 3/4". From there they would come out pretty easy, since the sleeves are tapered. One I had to lift the whole 1" with the puller. A couple of them took some pretty good tugs on a 1/2" breaker bar to get them started out. The first center bolt I used was 1/2", and I stripped the threads on it. The 2nd one was a 3/4" rod with a 3/4" bolt welded to the end. Didn't strip that one.

Maybe I could have pounded them out if the crank was out of the way, but I think it would have broken the sleeves first.

Mine had the 3-1/4" pistons and the sleeves were worn out. Replaced them with a Tisco set from E-bay.

Good luck,
Bill

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Hobo,NC

11-10-2004 15:01:44




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 Re: Farmall 100 Engine Rebuild Questions in reply to BillWV, 11-10-2004 11:19:02  
Thanks fer the tip. i did not have much of a problem get’N em out. I have a sleeve knocker for a ford n and it worked good . After the first sleeve I sprayed Some penetrating oil around the base of the sleeve and the otter three came out much easier. After I priced the sleeves I took a better look at the ones I had. It has set up for 5 years under a shed and still the rings had made a deep impression in them . So I gotta get my pocket book out and spend, Boy these Farmall parts are expensive. Hold up now is I can’t remember were I put the cam out of the 140 with the good cam gear.

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BillWV

11-10-2004 19:59:00




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 Re: Farmall 100 Engine Rebuild Questions in reply to Hobo,NC, 11-10-2004 15:01:44  
Once I got the first one out, I sprayed oil on the last three from inside the block. It did seem to help.
My last option was to make a slide-hammer type puller. The bolt-powered one was easier for me to make in a hurry.
Parts expensive? I thought they were pretty reasonable. I know the Dodges I used to work on were much worse...
Good luck,
Bill



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Hobo,NC

11-11-2004 04:51:01




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 Re: Farmall 100 Engine Rebuild Questions in reply to BillWV, 11-10-2004 19:59:00  
Yep Mercedes has taught them dodge/ Chrysler boys haw to charge. Windshield washer pump for a Intrepid 60.00 for a Nissan 14.00 and they are the same pump. Rear axle for a jeep grand Cherokee 600.00 and a good old jeep CJ series 150.00 only difference is the GC axle is around 1 ½ longer with a pressed on ABS tone wheel. It just goes on and on. Looks like they are trying to find out how much money them Yuppies have, Most love their GC so they pay the price. Should not complain to much when ya work on a percentage the more it cost the more ya make.

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stroker88

11-09-2004 19:21:17




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 Re: Farmall 100 Engine Rebuild Questions in reply to Hobo,NC, 11-09-2004 18:14:37  
they are the same engine.#1 they are wet sleeves(one of very few ih).#2 will have to check on the crank specs.#3the shafts will inter change.#4the rods should be the same have seen some that are a bit beefier than others keep the weights as close as possible.if in good shape use the conformatics or domed pistons.#5 heads should be the same also. cam specs may differ i think they gave the 140 a few more rpm's. hope this helped, good luck.

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