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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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removing the engine from a B

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GKTX

03-09-2005 20:00:33




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Could anyone tell me about what the engine from a B will weight? Am I safe with something rated to 750 lbs? I'm thinking of borrowing an engine hoist or stand and wanted to make sure it would holdup? Also will the 4 bolts on the front of a stand line up with anything on the front of the engine without significant extra effort? I appreciate any input. This is the first time I've pulled an engine I'm really trying to avoid doing something too dumb, like dropping the engine.

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D.A.R.

03-10-2005 07:31:49




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 Re: removing the engine from a B in reply to GKTX, 03-09-2005 20:00:33  
I put a super m engine on a 750 stand and it held up allright.



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captaink

03-10-2005 06:53:17




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 Re: removing the engine from a B in reply to GKTX, 03-09-2005 20:00:33  
I’m fortunate that I have a “steel recycler” (junkyard) handy to go get scrap metal from at ridiculously low prices compared to either lumber or new steel. Years ago, I built a splitting stand to hold up the torque tube for my B and C out of metal legs and tied them together at the bottom with a piece of box tubing. I have bolts on the bottom that I can use to adjust the height making reassembly lineups easier. I have used it several times and have never regretted the time it took me to get the iron from the junkyard and doing the building my self.

Over the years of doing my own mechanic work I have built splitting stands for the M-560 line and then a very heavy set for the 66-86 series that are very versatile. I have acquired a floor crane (cherry picker) and built an engine stand that will support a 436 diesel complete with head and turbo. All of these items make doing the work less stressful and more importantly, reasonably safe.

I don’t know if you have the time of finances for any or all of this, but I would start by trying to find scrap iron and build the stand for the torque tube. If you use an engine stand I think you will find attaching it to the flywheel end of the engine worth the effort of removing the flywheel etc. As another post noted, if you bolt it to the front, you will have difficulty accessing the timing gears and removing the camshaft.

Good info in other posts about safety items.

Just some thoughts, hope they help.

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riverbend

03-10-2005 05:56:54




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 Re: removing the engine from a B in reply to GKTX, 03-09-2005 20:00:33  
A couple of safety related points - 1)Apply and lock the rear brakes before you start. You do not want it to try and roll away while the front end is off. 2) Do not use 2X6s as 'crutches' to support the torque tube. A lot of the wood out there is junk. If they have wind shakes or those monster knots, they can split. Use steel (like 2" pipe or better) or solid cribbing under the tube. No sense getting squashed.

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Shaggy

03-09-2005 21:42:23




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 Re: removing the engine from a B in reply to GKTX, 03-09-2005 20:00:33  
I have used a cable come along and the rafter"s in my garage to pull the engine in my SA and it worked just fine but it is easier if you have a regular engine hoist because you can move it to where you want it then. I usually bolt the engine stand where the bellhousing bolts to. (Take the fly wheel 1st.)



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D Morris

03-10-2005 05:02:06




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 Re: removing the engine from a B in reply to Shaggy, 03-09-2005 21:42:23  
I just overhauled my B and it is pretty easy. Build a set of "crutches" to bolt on the sides of the torque tube (I split a 2 x 12 about 42 inches long. Drill holes for the front set of diagonal implement mounting bolts. This makes it a snap when you remove the engine. The engine weighs less than 500 pounds with clutch and flywheel (with head removed). I used a Tractor Supply porta-crane rated at 1000 pounds easily. I recommend mounting engine on to stand using the back bolt holes but that is up to you. It sure makes it hard to turn the engine over if you use the front and you cant access the parts you need to replace (like cam and timing cover). I used an engine stand (also from Tractor Supply) and it had an adapter plate that made it easy. You'll want to space the block with washers so the crank will turn freely and the dowel pin won't hit the adapter. No trouble here. The new engine hoists have an attachment to level the engine with a hand crank that is sure handy. You can get the whole setup for about $160 plus engine stand which is about $60 or so. A book could be written on all this but it is pretty straight forward. Plan on spending about $1500 for a complete overhaul if you do the work yourself (including head work which is best done at the machine shop). If it is like almost all tractors it is worn slap out and everything will have to be "renewed."

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