Bought a '49 Super A, which had been converted to 12 volt with a distributor, but the original wiring harness had been re-used.
Recently it started stumbling, the plugs were crudded, wire connections were suspect, so I changed everything electrical, including coil, points, wires, ammeter, and got a new on-off switch with a fuse, since the original fuse had been by-passed. (Thanks, Mr. Melville, for the wiring diagrams!)Still stumbling, so I moved-on to more expensive things. Pulled the old carb, opened her up, and for one thing, found that one of the two floats was broken off, but the owner had wired a piece of plastic in the float's place, to compensate. (*Yipes*!) Likely why the carb was occasionally leaking gas, no? But the interior of the carb was full of crud, and what looked like old rust. Rather than try to clean it, and still worry there were orifices plugged, I bought a new carb. WOW! Starts on a dime, runs great! Now, the governor. It was idling way too fast, and no response with the idle-adjusting-screw, so I left that backed-out about one turn. Backing-off the throttle-stop-screw on the carb slowed down the idle to where it needs to be, (by ear, as I have no tach). However, I now get no engine response until the throttle is about 1/3 engaged; that is, the rockshaft arm doesn't begin to move until the throttle has moved about a third. I have noticed that the rockshaft arm (and rockshaft) are 'loose' and move about 1/4 inch measured at the end of the arm where the connecting-rod-yoke attaches. Is this normal freeplay? I can't see, from my service-manual picture, what would constrain this movement other than the main governor spring or a thrust spring on the end of the distributor-drive shaft. Is there adjustment where the throttle rod connects to the speed-change-lever, to take up this free-play? The connection is made with a block that slides on the throttle shaft, with springs on either side. These springs are under considerable tension, so I haven't taken them off yet. Is the adjustment made by swapping springs for ones of different lengths? I'm fairly confident, (considering the jury-rigged-float in the carburetor and the dangling-unused-wires on the old harness), that the main spring in the governor is the original. If this was your tractor, would you go ahead, with my symptoms, and open up the governor? Heck, I've come this far. Thanks!
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