Solid State Ignition

Where the heck do you get the change over kits for a tractor's ignition system?

Do the coil and wires need replacing too or just the switching part in the distributor?

Thanks,

Allan

Next, be sure to match the new coil with the switches current capacity as I believe some switch vendors offer different switch ratings dependant upon what coil is used.

As far as wiring, all thats usually involved is two wires out of the unit mounted in the distributor base to replace the points that run one to each side of the coil, piece of cake to wire. A magnet fits down over the distributors cam shaft lobes which triggers the switch. The existing switch and wiring to the coils input (regardless if new or old coil) ought to suffice provided its all in good condition. NOTE If a high voltage coil is used and youre running a wider plug gap, good plug wires and a good distributor cap etc must be used..... .... Check with the vendor as far as plug wire recommendations cuz some of those high performance systems actually use carbon core plug wires which I would not use otherwise.

NOTE is this 12 volt system????? If so although its still possible to use a 6 volt coil and an external ballast resistor, I highly recommend use of a 12 volt coil and do away with the ballast.

CAUTION these units are polarity and voltage sensitive, BE SURE and buy a unit to match your ground,,,,, your voltage,,,,, ,,and a coil suitable for the switches current rating.

Hope this helps, let us know

John T

I used the old stinker yesterday for about 2 hours to move some hay from a mile out across the place. Paid real close attention to how it was acting.

Runs like a million bucks after it warms up good. However, at WOT, and only at wide open throttle, it will drop a cylinder. If I bring the throttle "just off" of wide open, it straightens right back out. It is not a fuel starve, but a flutter-miss.

Under real hard acceleration, it doesn't miss a beat and pulls real hard until that top rpm is reached.

I'm just wondering if the sloppy distributor shaft is causing all the difficulity via point setting variation?

Dunno, probably should have left this one set and bought another diesel. But, I do like that "instant" start with no choke. :>)

Allan

Let us know, fun discussion, take care

John T

Yesterday, I took this distributor completely apart, cleaned and checked it out. I can get the points to "vary" by roughly .010".

What is the air gap on those solid state guys? 'Spose the electronic ignition will "cover up" the slop in this shat?

Or, should I just buy a distributor and be done with it?

Allan

they send a plastic strip to use as a feeler guage to set the gap on the trigger. It seems to be about .030-.040". I don't think they are real sensitive in the gap. Of course if there are other problems in the distributor I don't know if they will correct it.

I'd suggest that you Google for Pertronix and call their tech line. I've found them very helpful. You probably should have your distributor manufacturer and model number handy when you call.

I was hoping that the electronic air gap would cover that up and let me avoid buying a distributor. They're just a hall effects switch, aren't they?

Allan

Just the inerds in the dist. need to be changed.

Did my 560 this winter.

I think you can order them from Kim on this site here.

Good Luck Allan.

http://www.farmersservice.com/distributors.htm

Snow finally left here yesterday. Nothin' but muddy slop now.

'Course with a "normal" Nebraska wind, we'll probably be bellerin' for moisture by this afternoon. :>)

Allan