856 Rear Wheel Removal

The mechanic said to just loosen the wedge bolt and slide the wheel off. So I sprayed on some PB Blaster and jacked up the rear end, turned the wheel so the wedge was on the bottom with no weight on it, loosed the bolt about a turn and a half with the breaker bar and she locked up solid. Is this a left hand thread? What is the trick here?

On that U shaped devive, if you don't find it on the other rear wheel, you must have bought a tractor that someone used the drive shed wall for storage. One of those sold here on YT auction about 3 months ago for $5. The seller didn't even know what it was. I would think scrap yards should have a decent supply. That failing, search the drive sheds of guys that bought these tractors new.

If you have trouble locating the U shape clamp I think I have an extra.

I bought it at an auction for some reason years ago.

Someone must have changed those hubs because I don't think that style came out till the 66 series.

Gary

When you loosen the wedge bolt it will force one wedge out, and loose. What you are trying to achive here is place the U shaped device so the loose wedge cant come out beyond flush with side of wheel. That in turn will force the other wedge to loosen.

It was a great system, just too many folks didn't understand it and didn't bother to ask or consult the manual.

What you might try with those wheel weights is remove two of the bolts, put long pieces of round bar in place of bolts, then remove the other two bolts, replace them with round bar, then slide the wheel weights in, and away from the wheel. I can see you'll likely have to remove rim from wheel to make working room.

I think this may be a geographic thing, dealer here tells me they had a lot of problems using snap on duals on early 56 and 06 tractors. Thinking about that one, it doesn't surprise me. Personally I spent the extra money for axle duals, even with wedge locks. The 1066 manual told one not to use 3 lowest gears for maximum pull with duals, that did tell me someting.

The loosening of that wedge bolt will only loosen one wedge. Your tractor should be equiped with a device that bolts through the wheel to force the other wedge to come loose. This device is two U shaped pieces of steel with two long bolts. When new this was usually clamped on one wheel. It could readily be changed to the other. Too many folks hung those up in the shop. Personally I always left mine clamped on the wheel.

I understand you can also loosen the wedge bolt, in the position you have it, hit the top end of axle with a big hammer and the wedges will pop loose. I personally don't recommend this. An IH technician once told me if the wedges are tightened to 600 ft lbs it wont work. He also noted the guys using the hammer are the same guys that are now replacing axle bearings.