BEWARE!! BECARFULL, ALL NEWBEE'S AND OTHERS

I learned a long time ago that I need to be weary of who I take advice from. You would'nt take advice on building an engine from the first stranger you see walking down the street would you? The same should hold true on this fourum.

When it comes down to it, the person you think is experienced may well be some joker that does not know is stuff. Without face to face interaction you don't get the subtle things that you can read in a person when you meet them.

Now here is some tough medicine: maybe there was nothing wrong with the advice you got, and maybe it was some thing you did in building the engine that caused the problem.

Then again, I am not there, that is a "what if" type thing.

Bill

The only fresh re-build I ever saw fail was a young fellow back in 1968 who put in .001" undersized crank bearings 'cause some idiot told him he needed to "allow for wear on the crank".

That engine lasted exactly 16 minutes. Only engine failure I ever personally saw and I've literally been thru a train-full of engines.

I'm just afraid that if Jon's engine blew up, there is a darned good reason for it; and the down and dirty jist of the matter is that it wasn't the silly breakin procedure like he seems to be hanging the fault on either.

There is a reason for it and that reason is inside that engine.

Allan

How's about we calm down and be a little bit realistic here? It is just a chunk of iron and you're letting it get to you.

Your H engine didn't fail because of the break in procedure you used, nor did it happen because of what someone here told you about how to break it in either; I don't give a fig what they told you.

Ever watch a manufacturer pop ‘em off? It’d scare ya to death.

I think you already know the problem. Open it up and find out what you did wrong.

Allan

One of the most common statements we see on this forum is, " My TA is gone again." I expect a lot of folks don't have the expertise to rebuild a TA, but they waste money trying it. My experience with 5 different TA equiped tractors, is they are good for about 10,000 hours between rebuilds.

This forum is not all picnic for guys giving advice. Many times I see guys trying to answer questions without enough info. It's painful to watch. What is more painful, you go back to the guy looking for more info, and he never responds. It almost seems as though they treat it as an insult, to think you would ask a question. When I came to YT almost 6 years ago it was very common for a guy seeking advice, to be at the same time apologizing for a long post. I was one of the first to get after those guys. I would say don't cut it short, sometimes it just takes that many words to describe the problem.

I once got into a disk building project here on YT, with a guy close to a 1,000 miles away from me. He had a Super C and wanted a 24 blade disk. All 24 blade disks in his area were in the $600.+ range. He could buy a 44 blade disk for$100. I said why not buy the 44 blade disk and cut it down. After Mon., Tues. and Wed. and about 12 full page e mails each, I never heard tell of him on Thurs., Fri., Sat. or Sun. By Sun. I made up my mind he was so annoyed with me for getting him into this, that he would never speak to me again.

On Mon. am I rose to find an incomming e mail with attachments. Yes, 3 photos of a Super C tractor out disking with the new 24 blade disk. I've never had another encounter here at YT that gave me as much satisfaction. You know something, 90% of that success goes to the guy who built the disk. He had the shop, with equipment, but most of all he had the fabrication expertise and excellent communication skills.

To you and everyone else, I can't stress enough the importance of those communication skills. Don't be afraid to ask and answer questions, doesn't matter which side of the question your on.
EXCELLENT COMMUNICATION IS WHAT WILL MAKE THIS FORUM EXCELLENT.

Whadda doin' up so early? :>)

Allan

Technically I suspect we were both up about the same time, so to critize one another would be the pot calling the kettle disturbingly nasty names.

As far as name,well,wife wanted in on the name too. Therefore we use; steveormary.

steveormary

Not sure what advice you were given....sounds like you got the typical advice to "break it in the same way you're gonna run it". This will work SOMETIMES. Not sure about tractor engines(and willing to admit it, although in actuality an engine doesn't know what it's in or what brand name is stamped on the valve cover) but on auto engines, if they're totally new, you need to run 'em at a specific RPM(about 2000) for about 20 minutes after initial startup so that the cam and lifters(assuming new) can get enough oil to "mate" to each other. Once that's done, the old "run her easy for the first "X" number of miles" isn't really applicable anymore. That used to be done supposedly to "get the rings to seat" but with modern ring materials and bore finishes it isn't needed. Again- not sure what replacement tractor rings are made of...so it "might" be neccessary...people with more experience than I have with tractor motors can(and probably already have) answer that.

But if it is neccesary on a tractor engine to "break it in easy" to get the rings to seat, and you didn't follow proper procedures, the worst that'd probably happen is you'd wind up with an engine that burned a little oil.

If you ran it fairly hard and something in the roatating assembly actually "broke" or a bearing went out, other than a lobe wiped off the cam, then most likely there was a problem before it was ever fired up. It doesn't take much....a small peice of something in an oil gallery or a clearance somewhere that's not quite right or even a flaw in an existing or replacement part can do it easy. Lots of variables and you won't know till ya tear it down.

Good luck to you.

Seems you're thinking either a sleeve or a bearing problem.

Ya won't know till you tear it apart, but most(if not all) bearings don't require any break-in as long as they're prelubed sufficiently on assembly so they're not metal-on-metal until oil gets to them, and all sleeves should require is "maybe" a run in to seat the rings(see above post).

Kinda sounds like there was maybe a problem with the oiling system? Let us know what ya find when/if you tear her back down. Like most mechanical objects, there's not really any black magic involved- if there's a problem, there's more than likely a correctible reason for it.

Best wishes n God Bless Yall

John T

• Hobby farm

No Old it did not have anything to do with you or alot of other good posters I just was mad at the time and did not want to list 20 names that did not have anything to do with it.
Its just one of those things that I think alot of posters just post to well Post. Like I said I was not trying to start a war or beliddle anyone I just wanted some of the new people like Mike and others to do like what you say and take some answers with a grain of salt. Not everyone that posts knows the right answer even I make mistakes some times, I surly dont know it all. I do how ever think sometimes people just post as a joke and the newbees need to relize this. I will let you know more in a few days when I do. But I am thinking sleeve itis or spun bearings.From over working her before she was broke in. JON

• Hobby farm

I keep trying to get Old to let me haul couple of those other color tractors out here to the greater NW...:>))

LMAO..... ..... .....hello Rich

Keith & Shawn

• Hobby farm

Just had to give you a bad time again. I just can't seem to pass up a good opportunity. :>):>)

K & S

• Hobby farm

These forums are not a conspiracy to do harm. In most cases they are self correcting. If bum info hits a thread, it doesn't take long before it is corrected or at least questioned.

Your best bet now is to tow it out to a fence line and turn it into home for mice. If you can't bear to look at it, turn it into scrap and take the money down to your local bar.

Don't you just love cry-babies !!!!.

You may find the oil pump has a twisted off shaft or other major malfunction.

I'll never give advice on break-in of engines because I'm always all puckered up wondering if I over-tightened a rod bolt so I check for oil pressure and run it real easy until I get some faith in the finished job.

But, an H turns so slow if you had a major failure after just a few hours you'll find it was not the break-in procedure.

I did have a neighbor who rebuilt an old M without mic-ing the crank, just took out std bearings and the crank looked good so he put in some 0.002 undersize for good measure. He also did not use plastigage and had to pull the tractor to get it started. It spun all four rod bearings. He could not believe that the crank was not worn at all.