Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
:

Super C Not Charging-Temp Fix?

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
terryjd

09-15-2006 19:26:28




Report to Moderator

Hi I am having problems with my SC not charging, it shows discharge on the amp meter while running. I went through the 6 volt trouble shooting list I saved a couple of years ago. At step 3 where it says to jumper field terminal to ground the tractor"s rpms lowered and the amp meter went to a full 20 amp charge. Looks like I need a new light switch. I was hoping to take in my first tracor pull with the SC on the weekend, do the pulls with an M but never did one with the SC before. Don"t want to go with a battery discharging. Is there anyway to temp fix this, wire it with the light switch out but tractor still charge? Being the weekend now doubt will ever find a dealer around here with a switch in stock. Any ideas or am I out of luck? Thanks Terry

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Red Dave

09-16-2006 09:06:07




Report to Moderator
 Re: Super C Not Charging-Temp Fix? in reply to terryjd, 09-15-2006 19:26:28  
Terry, I can't get through all the dissertations below to tell if anybody said this but, if grounding the field makes the ammeter show charge, it sounds like generator is working and the voltage regulator is not.

To put it simply, assuming the wiring is OK, it sounds like you need a regulator.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
John T

09-15-2006 21:17:43




Report to Moderator
 Re: Super C Not Charging-Temp Fix? in reply to terryjd, 09-15-2006 19:26:28  
Terry, Assuming you have the light switch field current control system as opposed to a full fledged Voltage Regulator based on your post, it sounds like the problem is EITHER,,,,,the wires open between the gennys Field post and the light switch,,,,, ,,,,, or the light switch doesnt have a good ground,,,,, ,,,,,or the switch could simply be baddddd . Does the switch have the L H B D positions????? ? If so does it not charge in EITHER the L or H ??? If it dont charge in either Im back to the wires bad from the gennys Field post up to the switch or it dont have a good ground, cuz it ought to charge in either the L or H unless theres no ground on it at all or the wires open. It may be the case the switches resistor is bad (low charge) but Id still think the H (high charge) would work and if NEITHER does, Ima still back to thinkin the wires open from the genny or theres no switch ground.

Yes its possible to jury rig a temp fix by dead grounding the gennys Field post buttttt tt I would sure try n check the Field wire and the switch ground FIRST. With the Field dead grounded shes in the high max charge condition and after a longgggg gggg time that way you could overcharge the battery and/or out gas n boil it over buttttt ttttt that wouldnt happen in any matter of minutes, it would take a long time. If you wanna jury rig a temp fix so she will charge but at the lower safer rate, stick a 2 to 3 ohm power resistor in series in the wire from the Field post to ground buttttt tttt I really dont think thats necessary for short term use.

ALSO for a short term pull Id simply give the battery a good charge right before the pull and not even worry about running the genny, just use the stored battery energy to power the coil versus having to waste precious horsepower to power that dern genny runnin down the track. Other HP robbers are fan blades and water pumps (some use an electric pump when pulling).

Best wishes n God Bless, let us know

John T

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
gene bender

09-16-2006 02:00:48




Report to Moderator
 Re: Super C Not Charging-Temp Fix? in reply to John T, 09-15-2006 21:17:43  
The SC has a voltage regulator and not a cut-out



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
terryjd

09-15-2006 22:05:26




Report to Moderator
 Re: Super C Not Charging-Temp Fix? in reply to John T, 09-15-2006 21:17:43  
I do have a voltage regulater on the tractor, little square box. It has the F-Bat-L all in a row and Gen on it on the other side. The field that I grounded was the F on the regulator. Thats when the tractor started charging. The light switch does have a off-low-high. First step in the guide is to turn on lights with tractor off- this shows discharge. 2'nd step-tractor running at least half set light switch to high run ground to battery post. Amp meter still showed discharge. 3'rd step- Jumper fld terminal to ground. I jumpered the fld terminal at the regulator to ground on body then got a full 20 amp charge at amp meter. According to the chart this means light switch is bad. Almost sounds like I tested something wrong there. If I shorted out the fld on the regulator and it charged maybe it is the regulator. These electrics are simple enough but sure stump me. I put a new battery in the tractor so if I charge it up full it should get me through a couple of pulls then by the sounds of it. I never thought a battery would stay up that long.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
John T (update)

09-16-2006 05:34:08




Report to Moderator
 Re: Super C Not Charging-Temp Fix? in reply to terryjd, 09-15-2006 22:05:26  
Terry, Either you or the Troubleshooting Guide you mentioned is mixing apples n oranges, wasnt my guide was it lol (its posted below). Its mixing Apples (2 terminal cutout relay and light switch field current controller) and Oranges (3 or 4 pole VR)

Okay, since you have a full fledged 4 terminal Voltage Regulator NOT the simple 2 wire Cutout Relay (either could have been changed/modified over the years to the other) lets proceed again:

If you have a VR ITS NOT CORRECT THAT IF YOU GROUND THE FIELD N SHE CHARGES THE LIGHT SWITCH IS BAD cuz a VR system DOES NOT use or rely on the light switch, ONLY the 2 wire Cutout relay system relies on the light switch to provide a ground for the gennys Field post!!!!! !!!

SOOOOO O on a VR system if she charges ONLY if you dead ground the gennys Field at the VR but NOT otherwise, the problem is NOT the light switch as your guide suggested (for the cutout relay system) BUT its EITHER:::::

a) The VR's Field Control Relay is the cause (bad or misadjusted VR)

OR

b) The VR isnt well grounded (usually to gennys case)

Try to better ground the VR's case to Gennys n see if that helps????

You might get by cleaning/buffing/polishing the VR's internal field current control relay contacts or file them if badly burned or stuck or pitted or tweaking/adjusting it buttttt once the shiny silver coating is gone they arent too good.

Back to your temp fix question, its the same as I posted above. YES if she charges with the Field dead grounded you can do that temporarily, just dont leave it that way permanentLy where she ALWAYS HIGH CHARGES cuz after a long time it could overcharge n outgas or boil over the battery BUT that would take a long time

Heres my Troubleshooting Procedure for Non Charging for BOTH the VR and Cutout Relay system, hope it dont confuse you or mix apples n oranges lol


TROUBLESHOOTING CHARGING SYSTEMS

ARE YOU SURE THE AMMETER IS WIRED CORRECT AND WORKS????? If you turn the lights or ignition on (if coil ignition not a mag) when she’s not running, the ammeter should swing over to the - discharge direction, does yours??? Are BOTH the ammeter terminals reading hot battery voltage?? They MUST !!!!! ! There’s but one wire on the ammeters Supply (from battery/starter) terminal while its other Load terminal wires to the BAT terminal on a Cutout relay or VR PLUS wires to feed loads like lights or ignition, unless where a 4 terminal VR is used where lights n ignition are fed from the LOAD terminal on the VR.

To Polarize the Generator, first temporarily dead ground the Gens Field post to case/frame, then momentarily flash jump a wire from the Cutout Relay or VR's "BAT" terminal over to its GEN (or ARM) terminal and you ought to get a small spark. Same things accomplished by momentarily flash jumping a hot wire (BAT terminal on Cutout Relay or VR or starter post etc) direct to the Gens ARM post to get the spark.

TROUBLESHOOTING A CHARGING PROBLEM IN CLASS A DELCO TYPE SYSTEMS

1) For a good working Gen to get to and charge the battery, it has to have a path usually from the Gens ARM post,,,,, ,,,,to and through the Cutout Relay (between its GEN and BAT terminals, regardless if on a VR or Relay),,,,, ,,,up to the Load (NOT to battery) side of the Ammeter,,,,, ,,,to and through the Ammeter,,,,, ,,,,from BAT side of Ammeter to ungrounded battery terminal, often via the starter lug post. Is yours wired that way or equivalent ??? The ammeter should read hot battery voltage on BOTH terminals, does yours??? Even if an ammeter were stuck (but still continuous) as RPM increases the battery voltage should rise from 12.6 to near 14 volts and/or the lights glow brighter (half that on 6 volt systems). Have you tried that in case the ammeter isn’t working right?????

2) If the above is so, the BAT terminal on the VR or Cutout Relay MUST ALWAYS READ HOT BATTERY VOLTAGE. Does yours??? If not, the Gen cant get to and charge the battery.

3) The Gen to VR (if it has one) wiring is as follows:

BAT on VR to ammeters load (NOT battery) side

ARM (or GEN) on VR to Gens Armature post.

FLD on VR to Gens Field post.

(L) Load (if you have a 4 wire VR) up to BAT supply input terminal on switch to feed loads like lights and ignition.

WIRING ON CUTOUT RELAYS: They wire BAT side to ammeters Load terminal,,,,, GEN side to gens Armature post. On cutout relay systems, the Gens Field post is wired to the light switch where it gets a dead ground for high charge or a resistive ground for low charge. Therefore, there must be a good connection from the Gens Field post up to the switch PLUS the switch is good and it’s well grounded !!!!! !!

4. THE GEN AND VR OR CUTOUT RELAY MUST BE WELL GROUNDED AND THE BELT GOOD N TIGHT. If any doubt, run a ground wire from the grounded battery post or clean solid frame member direct to the Gen and see what happens????? ????? ????? ????? ????

NOW, if the Gen and VR are grounded,,,,,all is wired correct,,,,, ,,BAT terminal on VR or Cutout Relay is HOT,,,,, ,,Belt is tight,,,,, ,,,Ammeter is good n continuous n works but she wont charge, have you had the batteries tested lately????? Is there electrolyte above all the plates and no cells have a gray or milky appearance????? A bad battery may not accept a charge you know!!!!! !! If the battery checks okay, proceed below to see if its a Gen or VR problem (AFTER you have insured the wiring per the above)

TO DETERMINE IF ITS A GEN OR VR OR CUTOUT RELAY PROBLEM

5. a) VOLTAGE REGULATOR SYSTEM: With the tractor running, temporarily ground the Gens Field post to case. If she charges then but NOT otherwise, the VR may be bad, or a wires missing from VR's Field post to the Field terminal on the VR, or the VR isn’t well grounded.

b) IF IT’S A CUTOUT RELAY SYSTEM and she charges only if you dead ground the Field but NOT otherwise, its either a bad switch or the switch isn’t well grounded or else the wires bad or open from the Gens Field post up to the switch. INSURE THAT GOOD SWITCH GROUND AND WIRING

6. If she still don’t charge, leave the Field grounded and jump a wire across from the VR or Cutout Relays BAT terminal over to its GEN terminal (jump by passes the cutout relay) and see if she charges. If then but not otherwise, a VR's cutout relay isn’t working correct (maybe points burned/carboned) or a Cutout Relays NOT working or not wired correct.

7. With the 2 steps above, you have basically by passed the VR or Cutout relays functions, so if she still don’t charge, you're left with a bad battery or wiring or the Gen itself.

8. MOTOR TEST. You can Motor test the Gen. If its grounded and you remove the belt and apply hot battery voltage direct to its ARM Post and have the Field Post dead grounded to frame, it should motor n run well (Armature n Brushes and Commutator likely okay). Then, if you next remove the Fields ground and it speeds up some, the Fields probably good. If it passes both those tests, it should charge, and if not, it may be a wiring or battery or grounding problem. The hot battery voltage may be taken off the VR's BAT terminal or the starter post or the battery itself for this test.

9. Typical Gen problems may be the brushes are worn down or the hold down spring assemblies are stuck/corroded/dirty and arent pushing the brushes tight down against the commutator. Check those things out. Worse may be bad fields or armature etc. Air and WD 40 etc can clean and free them, the hold downs must be free n snap and hold the brushes DOWN TIGHT and they cant be worn down too low.

SUMMARY: Check the wiring,,,,,the grounds,,,,, insure BAT on VR or Relay is hot,,,,, ,check battery (maybe load tested and Specific Gravity checked),,,,, ,,,good tight belt,,,,, ,insure ammeter is continuous (BOTH sides HOT),,,,, see if battery voltage rises above 12.6 (half that for 6 volt system) and/or light glow brighter,,,,, ,,,do the Field and cutout relay VR by pass checks,,,,, ,,insure the Gens brushes arent worn down and the hold down springs are free n clean and push the brushes down tight,,,,, ,,,,,check the connections,,,,, ,,,try the Gen Motor Test to see if its good.

You may just have a bad battery or bad ground or connection if the Gen and VR or relay are okay. Good Luck n God Bless, let us all know.

John T Nordhoff in Indiana, retired electrical engineer who usually lurks over on the Mother Deere pages instead of over here on the "dark side" lol

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
RAW in IA

09-15-2006 20:43:30




Report to Moderator
 Re: Super C Not Charging-Temp Fix? in reply to terryjd, 09-15-2006 19:26:28  
Sounds more like cyt-out relay or regulator bad.If you charge the battery up it should run quite a while. I have a Cub with 6 volt system, and it hasn't charged for 6 yrs. I recharge battery once in a while and don't have much trouble. Battery is getting old so it doesn't hold as long now. Think I will switch it to 12 volt and use my trollin motot battery. Will start better in winter to plow snow.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy