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Another stuck one!!

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JayWalt

09-17-2006 14:08:54




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Heyh guys. I got a kind of serious issue here. On my 300u, the rear hitch's upper pin holder grease zerks are broken off. I want to replace them, but they are pressed in and broken off so I need to drill them out, retap the hole abnd put new ones in. Now I need to remove the main rod. I got both end bolts off (that was fun!), and the left cylinder arm, splined hitch arm. Apprently the rod is stepped up, because i cannot push the rod to the right and take it out. So I tried to remove the right hitch arm, but it is frozen on the spline. i have tried soaking it in penetrating oil for days, torched the arm up with my carbon arc (hence the discoloration) and used ice to cool the rod. I have been using a 2 pound sledge and a 1X1X2 chunk of brass stock (as to not damamge the bolthole threads) to pound the rod to the left to get the arm off. I removed the tire and fender to get more swing, no luck. NOTHING even budges it. Am I doing something wrong? Short of cutting the arm in 2 and trying to find a replacement I am at a loss. If I cant get it off, I guess I'll just have to use a syringe and put grease in whats left of the zerks. It really sucks, there no slop in them yet, and I want to fix them RIGHT, but everyhting keeps going wrong =(

The left side came off so easily, because up until i tried pulling the left zerk out and broke it off (I thought maybe the lower part of the zerk was binding up the rod), it has been lubed regularaly, so the spline didnt rust. Not the right side =(

If asnyone has one of these arms laying around and would ship it to me via media mail (the cheapest), I'll just cut the damn thing in 2 and that should get it off, but I dont wanna do that just yet.
Any advice would be truly appreciated.
Thanks for helping me out guys, without you I'd have slapped some c4 on this baby a long time ago =P

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El Toro

09-18-2006 08:36:14




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 Re: Another stuck one!! in reply to JayWalt, 09-17-2006 14:08:54  
Drill with #3 tap drill and then use a 1/4-28 tap
to tap new threads into the hole. Most auto parts stores have new zerk grease fittings with 1/4-28 threads. You can get them in an elbow or straight fittings. Hal



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JayWalt

09-17-2006 21:43:12




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 Re: Another stuck one!! in reply to JayWalt, 09-17-2006 14:08:54  
What is a drift?

How do I tell the difference between cast iron/steel. I kinda thought they were the same thing,, well not the same, but i just figured it was cast iron, just like alot of the other things.

I'm not a metalorgist or machinst, so dont beat me up too bad =)



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Wardner

09-17-2006 22:39:47




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 Re: Another stuck one!! in reply to JayWalt, 09-17-2006 21:43:12  
A drift is like a cold chisel but the end is not wedge shaped. The end opposite the hammered face is usually round and squared off. Drifts are sometimes called punches but a true punch cuts holes in steel, leather, etc.



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Jayalt

09-18-2006 05:52:36




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 Re: Another stuck one!! in reply to Wardner, 09-17-2006 22:39:47  

I used one of those, which is hard because of the rounded edge of the arm. Even tried it when Dad and bro were prying on it with 3 foot long crowbars. I'm sure the spline is supplying more surface area to rust which makes it hard to get off. Oh well.



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Wardner

09-17-2006 22:26:26




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 Re: Another stuck one!! in reply to JayWalt, 09-17-2006 21:43:12  
Cast iron will throw off a red-orange spark. Sometimes the spark will "explode" after traveling a foot or so.

Steel sparks will be yellow to orange and usually incandess longer on their way to the floor.

Get some old metal scraps and grind them to get an idea. I don't recommend that you use your mother's cast iron frying pan. Use an old water pump or something similar. Do it inside or in the shade for a better look.

Don't assume that any bulky or molded ferrous item is cast. You should google on forged steel to get an idea of the process. Cast iron is very stable after it has been aged for awhile. However, it has nowhere near the strenght of the cheapest steel.

Steel is rarely cast. Stainless steel is more likely to be cast using lost wax investment molds. You see alot of that stuff in marine applications

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JayWalt

09-17-2006 17:54:06




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 Re: Another stuck one!! in reply to JayWalt, 09-17-2006 14:08:54  
Thanks for the replies guys. I dont think an oxyacetylene torch would be of much help. My carbon arc torch gets quite hot, and water will vaporize on the arm after i turn the torch off for several minutes. Only difference is the need for welding type protection.
I am concerned about cutting and splitting the arm. One fear is breaking it totally in half when trying to wedge it apart. Cast iron doesnt bend very well. And the weld would concern me strength wise.
I will just use a syringe to inject grease into the now defunct zerks. Drilling and tapping the holes will leave metal shavings inside the joint, which dopsnt tickle my fancy either. I might have more luck if i removed the top bolster, but I think I will retire from the idea, as I've wasted a good weekend on it.

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Wardner

09-17-2006 19:09:45




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 Re: Another stuck one!! in reply to JayWalt, 09-17-2006 17:54:06  
Those lift arms are not cast iron. There is a slim possibility that they may be cast steel. You should be aware that they are almost certainly steel forgeings. You can prove that to yourself by running a grinder on the metal.

I can't see how a carbon arc is going to match a rosebud torch. Yes, I know that the furnaces in steel mills are electric arc heated. Are you borrowing one of those yet from the sister's boyfriend? A good rosebud will heat the whole area to a uniform bright orange in about 4-5 minutes. Your carbon arc will never do that and I haven't even seen it yet. You will always have "cold spots" you cannot reach.

If you haven't got an air arc, put an abrasive wheel in a die grinder, hand grinder, or saw. You could also use a sawsall. You'd be surprised at how much stuff gets cut and rewelded when millwrights start doing maintenance.

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Janicholson

09-17-2006 18:50:04




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 Re: Another stuck one!! in reply to JayWalt, 09-17-2006 17:54:06  
Warm it up with the carbon torch again just to pretty hot, not violent. Then soak it in PB Blaster, or auto trans fluid for one day. Then as stated below, use a drift on the inside of the arm, both top and sides (various locations, kile putting on a wet sock, it needs encouragement from different locations to get there, moving it outward, not the shaft in. It will come off that way I'm sure. JimN

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Nebraska Cowman

09-17-2006 17:04:09




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 Re: Another stuck one!! in reply to JayWalt, 09-17-2006 14:08:54  
Oh yeah, I reread your post again and yes, you are doing something wrong. If you insist on removing the arm you need to drive the arm with the hammer & large drift, and not be peening on the the shaft. And, please; use something heavier than a 2 pound hammer. Like Carl always said, "If you're gonna hit it, Hit it"



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JayWalt

09-17-2006 15:00:46




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 Forgot the pics =P in reply to JayWalt, 09-17-2006 14:08:54  
Forgot the pics guys.
Here's the arm I'm trying to remove
third party image
Here's the step down grove (why I dont know) that I believe is preventing me from just sliding the pin out of the right side. The pin is larger on the left of that grove then the right.
third party image
Here is as far as I can move the rod to the right, It stops exactly when that grove hits the right bushing.
third party image
I have to slide it to the left because of that, but I need to get that arm off first.

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Nebraska Cowman

09-17-2006 15:36:05




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 Re: Forgot the pics =P in reply to JayWalt, 09-17-2006 15:00:46  
Why? I worked for an old mechanic when I was a kid and he taught me to NEVER remove anything that I didn't have too. Just drill and tap the hole, or like you say, squirt a little grease in with a needle.



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Wardner

09-17-2006 16:08:09




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 Re: Forgot the pics =P in reply to Nebraska Cowman, 09-17-2006 15:36:05  
I agree with Cowman. Drill and tap and get on with your life. So you drill into the shaft. No big deal.

However, if that doesn't appeal to you, use some of your welding equipment. It doesn't sound like you have oxy-acet torch. That would certainly do the job. Forget the ice cubes.

But you do have a carbon arc. Does that include an air-arc? Slice thru the top of the arm down to the splines. Drive a thin wedge in the kerf and the arm will slide off. Repair the arm with weld and grind. Nobody will know the difference particularly if the cut is on the bottom. I use rock spliting wedges because they have a gentle taper. An old screwdriver would also work. Drive it parallel to shaft.

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