12v conversion for super a

The big main output of a true One Wire Alternator wires to the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter, thats the same place where the Gennys Voltage Regulator BAT terminal used to connect. Depends on the alternators amp rating, but Id use at least 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the ammeter and also from the ammeters other Supply side terminal to the battery/starter connection.

NOTE 1: If your just now switching from Pos to Negative ground (as most all alternators use) the ammeter leads would now be reversed or it would read bass ackwards. The Supply side wires to the battery/starter and has ONLY one wire while the load side wires to the alternators output PLUS feeds hot battery voltage to the lights n ignition (via their switches BAT input terminals)

NOTE 2: If its a coil ignition and you change to Negative Ground, the coil should wire + from the ignition switch and - to the distributor.

NOTE 3: If it had a 6 volt coil you can EITHER add a series external voltage dropping (12 to 6) Ballast Resistor in the line from the ignition switch to the coil ORRRRR RRR use a full true 12 volt rated coil and no ballast is required.

Of course, change any lights to 12 volts

If I missed anything I hope the other gents will add to this, let me know if you have any questions:

John T

I been reading up on the ballast resistor and the 12 volt coil. Now from what I understand the resistor is to keep from burning up the points. Isnt the resistor still needed even with a 12V coil? I know you can get a coil with an internal resistor and I would go with that if I had it to do again. Mine has a 12 volt coil but I have a external ballast resistor as well.

Can you fill us in a little on that?

Q Now from what I understand the resistor is to keep from burning up the points.

A Thats true cuz it (if actually needed and used) limits/reduces the current in the coils primary (its in series with it) which is the current they have to switch.

Q Isnt the resistor still needed even with a 12V coil?

A MAYBE A full true 12 volt coil has around 3 ohms of primary resistance which limits the points current to around 4 amps (about all they should switch to avoid premature burn up) AND THEY DO NOT USE ANY BALLAST

HOWEVER Some coils are labeled "12 Volts for use with external ballast" and they are in reality 6 volt coils and require a ballast, otherwise the points current is doubled and they burn up fast. A full true 12 volt coil is labeled "12 volts" or "12 volts NO Ballast Required" AND THEY DO NOT USE AN EXTERNAL BALLAST

Q I know you can get a coil with an internal resistor and I would go with that if I had it to do again. Mine has a 12 volt coil but I have a external ballast resistor as well.

A What some refer to as "Iternally Ballasted"
are 12 volt coils and the added primary resistance is usualy just cuz theres more wire length or else it has higher resistance wire, versus them having an internal discrete actual resistor. They DO NOT use an external ballast and if ones added, sure the points will last a longgggg time, buttttt ttt the spark is weaker.

The typical full true 12 volt coil has around 3 ohms primary resistance yielding 4 amps of coil and points current, while a 6 volt coil may be more like half that, but since the voltage is halved the points current still remians around 4 or so safe switching amps to avoid premature points burn up.

Hope this helps

John T

He also has one or two articles on it in the Research Section on the left hand column of the page.

If you go back a few messages you will see I been talking (asking actually) about the one wire system. Then if you go back another few (three or four) pages in the posts you will see another topic by me on my one wire Alt.

I think you might want to go with the three wire and just do it right to begin with.

Your amp meter will work but you will have to switch the wires from whatever post they were on to the other post.

Link