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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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130 lower grille

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Aaron Newby

11-07-2007 15:32:00




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My father and I am currently restoring 130 that has been in need for quite some time. It is a complete tractor, but the lower grille is rusted to nearly nothing. I have not been able to fine a new replacement piece anywhere for a 130, but can find a super A lower grille. I know that an 130 and a super A are almost identical tractors, but would the super A lower grille work for our 130. I have looked at photographs on the internet and they appear to be slightly different, so what modifications would I have to make if it would work. Or does anyone know where I could get a lower grille for the 130.

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Hugh MacKay

11-07-2007 16:03:44




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 Re: 130 lower grille in reply to Aaron Newby, 11-07-2007 15:32:00  
Aaron: your looking the wrong way, the Super A and Super C grill will not match up, in fact the lower section will not exchange between SA and SC.

Go to 100, 200, 230 or another 130. When you get into those the grills they are all the same.



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Vacherie

11-07-2007 17:14:25




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 Re: 130 lower grille in reply to Hugh MacKay, 11-07-2007 16:03:44  
If you have not written a book on the a's---200's it is about time. It would be nice to get your knowledge with pictures and words. A video would also be nice. I always read your posts.



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Hugh MacKay

11-08-2007 03:24:34




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 Re: 130 lower grille in reply to Vacherie, 11-07-2007 17:14:25  
Vacherie: I thought about that, however if you notice, I never tackle internal engine problems. The only engine I ever took apart, never went back together again. I'm not a mechanic of tractors, just a user, I like fabricating implements and attachments that IH never made for these smaller tractors.

For example, right now I am fabricating a rear rockshaft for my 130, using a remote cylinder as on SC, 200 and 230 with fast hitch, actually most like the 230, except the cylinder will be on the right. The rockshaft will attach to final drives and not to fenders as the factory rockshaft did. When done I'm going to have both 1 point fast hitch and 3 point hitch, changable from one to the other in less than 5 minutes, and without wrenches. Then comes a front end rack for suitcase weights. I expect this hitch will pickup and go with 1,200#. Finally, possibly broken final drives or torque tube, but I also know 1st, 2nd or reverse will be the order of the day. No 3rd and 4th gear with that kind of load. Next is a draft controlled 3 point hitch for a 230 complete with fixed drawbar as modern day tractors are. I was once a very strong believer in fast hitch for offsets, SC, 200 and 230, and I still believe that is the best hitch for plowing with small tractors. That being said, other fabricated implements are far more economical to build as 3 point than 1 point.

Then you get into that line up of small 3 point implements at farm stores, cheap, sheap, cheap made, yet they want big dollars for it. Why in 2007, would anyone want a disk with 16" blades and 7/8" arbor and matching bearings and spacers. Go 18" or 20" blades with 1-1/4" arbor, close to doubles the weight. I could go on and on, however why shouldn't these little tractors pull the same disk blade or cultivator shank as your average 100 hp tractor, just pull fewer disks or shanks

Now, if I wrote the book, I'd have no fun coming on here everyday, plus I'd have to get one of these other guys to write the chapter on engines. If you want me to build you an attachment or implement, that wont be free, but it's not a lot of fun either, plus one has input costs, wee bit higher than a computer.

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