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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

O.T. Homelite XL12 question-jdemaris??

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Kevin (FL)

11-09-2004 17:41:51




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Older (blue model) XL12 seems to be flooding--leaking gas out of muffler. Cranked once (has good spark) but now we can't get it running. We just got this saw, but we know it has good compression and good spark. Is the flooding problem a common issue? Do these carbs have "floats" like a tractor carb? I have a chainsaw manual around here somewhere but since the hurricane things are still in a mess and I haven't located it yet.

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JT

11-11-2004 16:37:30




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 Re: O.T. Homelite XL12 question-jdemaris?? in reply to Kevin (FL), 11-09-2004 17:41:51  
If the pump diaphram has gotten hard, it will hold the needle off seat and cause it to flood, probably a rebuild will be in order to fix this problem.



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jdemaris

11-10-2004 05:40:16




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 Re: O.T. Homelite XL12 question-jdemaris?? in reply to Kevin (FL), 11-09-2004 17:41:51  
It has the same basic carburetor as many other saws, including German ones like Stihl. Tillotson or Walbro, both work the same. If it's flooding, the needle valve is probably leaking. Although the carb uses a vacuum activated diaphram to open and close the fuel needle valve, the valve is the same design as in a float carburetor on a tractor. So, if it gets any dirt in it, or gets worn, it will leak. Directly opposite the needle valve and seat, on the other side of the carburetor, is where the fuel enters and there is supposed to be small screen there. If it's missing, it will allow the needle to foul often. The diaphram on that side of the carb has little flapper valves in it, that serve as a low pressure fuel pump - to draw fuel out of the tank. If you buy a carb. kit it will come with a new screen. You probably already know, but a 2 cycle chain saw engine needs to have a good cylinder bore throughout, not just good compression on top of the piston. If it does not, the crankase won't charge properly in order to get fuel/air mixture into the combustion chamber. So, along with that the crankcase seals must be tight, the fuel pump must be working (vacuum operated), etc. 2 stroke-cycle has several different designs used for fuel charge delivery. The most common are roto-port, cylinder port, and check valve. Cylinder port engines (like Stihl) are particularly sensitive to scored cylinders. Your Homelite, as I recall, is a reed valve engine - so the reed valve under the carb. must be working properly.

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Kevin (FL)

11-10-2004 10:14:53




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 Re: O.T. Homelite XL12 question-jdemaris?? in reply to jdemaris, 11-10-2004 05:40:16  
Thanks for some more good info--I'll be checking out the reed valves too. I also noticed something yesterday that I forgot to mention. With the spark plug removed and pulling slowly on the starter rope, I feel some strange (intermittent) resistance and roughness of some sort--maybe from the crank end? It's hard to tell but I plan to checkout another of our XL12's to see if this is normal. The sensation almost feels similar to turning a wheel on a spindle when it has a flat spot on a bearing or maybe a dry bearing?? BTW, I removed the muffler and the bore looks nice and smooth with no scoring.

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Punchie

11-10-2004 03:52:07




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 Re: O.T. Homelite XL12 question-jdemaris?? in reply to Kevin (FL), 11-09-2004 17:41:51  
Hi Kevin

Make sure duck valve is in the gas cap.
Make sure the little sreen is in the carb, the one that get the gas first, it may not be there very very small. But I would say it is the gasket.
Take carb apart easy and soak it in some oil maybe it has dry out, replace would be the best.

Make sure choke is working, maybe the linkage is off or backwords.

Have a Good One !!

Teddy



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Kevin (FL)

11-10-2004 05:28:32




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 Re: O.T. Homelite XL12 question-jdemaris?? in reply to Punchie, 11-10-2004 03:52:07  
Teddy,

When you say "duck valve in the gas cap", I'm not sure what that is. I know about the reed valves in front of the carb--is that what you mean? The cap on this saw has the sintered bronze vent on the underside, but I don't know about any "duck valve".

I plan to take the reed valve out to check and clean it and also put new gaskets in the carb. Throttle & choke linkage are both correct.

Thanks for the reply and assist.

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jdemaris

11-10-2004 18:40:38




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 Re: O.T. Homelite XL12 question-jdemaris?? in reply to Kevin (FL), 11-10-2004 05:28:32  
Not all the caps have the little "duck bill" he's mentioned. It is just a check valve, some caps use a little rubber check valve that looks like a bird's beak, and some just use sintered bronze. Either way, it's only job is to let air into the tank but keep fuel from sloshing out it when the saw is being jerked around. Working or not, it does not have the ability to make the saw flood. It can, if completely stuck, make the saw run lean because if air cannot get into tank, fuel can't get out to run the saw. If the gas cap vent was suspected as being a problem, all you have to do is loosen the cap (thus it is vented) and then try the saw.

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Punchie

11-10-2004 17:42:02




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 Re: O.T. Homelite XL12 question-jdemaris?? in reply to Kevin (FL), 11-10-2004 05:28:32  
Kevin

It is under the bronze colored plug in the Cap. It is a small valve in the shape of a dusk bill(sp). Let the pressure out of the tank if they are bad if you turn the saw up side down it will leak out. If you still have trouble with starting try a new plug, e-mail me if you still have trouble. I'll call and older friend repair man and pick his brain.

Teddy



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Greg C.

11-09-2004 21:56:26




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 Re: O.T. Homelite XL12 question-jdemaris?? in reply to Kevin (FL), 11-09-2004 17:41:51  
It could just need the carburetor adjusted or if its sat for a while new carb diaphragms. Are you familiar with the adjustment procedure? I'd carefully turn in the L screw and see if it will start if it idels fast then back it of some and use the idle screw to get a good smooth idle. It should transition smoothly form idle to wide open. I think initial setting for the L screw is around 1 and 1/2 turns out and H screw 1 turn out to 1 and 1/4. Be careful you don't want it running too lean bogging decrease in power fast idle and erattic running are signs of a lean condition. If that dosent help it you need to rebuild the carb which is very easy to do. Your saw most likely has a Tillotson HS here is good diagram of it.

Other carbs will be similar in construction the site has many more listed.

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Kevin (FL)

11-10-2004 05:37:38




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 Re: O.T. Homelite XL12 question-jdemaris?? in reply to Greg C., 11-09-2004 21:56:26  
Greg,

I plan to rebuild the carb this week. I'm thinking it's either that lower diaphram or maybe the needle isn't seating and it's allowing gas to pour in. The link you provided with the diagrams will be a big help.

I am familiar with the mixture adjustments having used these saws for many years. I tried leaning out both screws pretty far in and gas still gets into the cylinder (and drips out of the muffler) I used to rebuild the carbs in my younger years but I'm having to go back into my memory bank from 20 years ago.

Thanks for the good info and your time.

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37 chief

11-09-2004 19:54:21




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 Re: O.T. Homelite XL12 question-jdemaris?? in reply to Kevin (FL), 11-09-2004 17:41:51  
They dont have floats, but have some kind of a diaphram when the diaphrams get old and stiff, they dont work well.



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Daniel from France

11-14-2004 14:30:33




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 Re: O.T. Homelite XL12 question-jdemaris?? in reply to 37 chief, 11-09-2004 19:54:21  
I have the same adventure on an XL12 blue one "flooding and leaking gas in the mufler, still starting but getting fire in the muffler!!!".

This arrives, since I have remove the carburator and the two adjustments srews on the side.
My advice for you will be to readjust the two srews with the rigth procedure ( I do not have any!!)
I will be working this week on my XL12 and will try to inform you on my next experience
Thanks to everybody for your reply

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